Tom_ Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Hey guys, I replaced both headlights with the Xtravision versions of the stock lamps. Ever since I've had problems with the doors not wanting to open. Sometimes just one opens, sometimes they both work, but more often than not, they open after pressing the on button and tapping the brakes. Today the drivers side door has refused to open and the knob doesn't even move it. I've rebuilt these motors and have the reatta specialty parts bell cranks. Could it be something like moisture in the connectors? Wattage difference in the Xtravisions vs originals? It's pissing rain out so I can't fiddle with it so I'm left in my house to scratch my head until the weather clears. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest george1861 Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Seem to recall reading on one of the Threads that some of the fancy new headlight bulbs use so little power the computer thinks it's out & there for does something annoying so you'll check the lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 Just now, 89RedSlate said: That isn't electrical, that sounds mechanical. If the mechanism is bound, the amp draw will be enough to kill the power to the motor. What I meant was, I spin the knob and it didn't go up. Like the knob was spinning on the shaft. Because when I replaced the little delrin bushings I could still spin the knob and raise the light while lifting the door. The resistance was uneven then and the bellcrank moved. This time the bellcrank didn't even move. I'll mess with it some tomorrow to confirm that's repeatable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Did you replace the arm/bellcrank when you replaced the delrin bushings? If not, that is your problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest george1861 Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 14 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said: Did you replace the arm/bellcrank when you replaced the delrin bushings? If not, that is your problem He did say he has them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 It has less than 6 month old bell cranks from Reatta Specialty Parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 Also to clarify, the lamps are both turning on. It's just the doors. I'm going to get some contact cleaner on the connectors after work today and report back. I'm hoping that fixes it, if not I guess I'll try the standard wattage lamps as that's the only other thing that has changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 (edited) The knob spins, but the doors don't. move. Something mechanical's wrong here; not electrical. since both lamps were replaced, and both doors won't open, perhaps there's something mechanically wrong with the bulbs binding. Edited September 26, 2016 by harry yarnell add info (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kingsley Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Tom - "Like the knob was spinning on the shaft" - the manual control knob is a splined fit on the armature shaft and, addressing this issue only, there is a slight chance that the knob has rounded out. If you think this might be part of the problem, at least in diagnosing the overall problem, I do have new knobs and will be glad to send you one with minimal hurt. To do so must have your ship to address. Beyond this, would still appear that you have other issues. Kingsley Baker Reatta Specialty Parts - (855) REATTAS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Agree with Kingsley here. I have had a few knobs round out or split off the broach on headlight motors now. However, it sounds like something is binding up as well, and to may have crushed the new delrin bushings if the motor couldn't spin freely for some reason. After all, that is the design intent in using the delrin rollers, so the worm gear doesn't get sacrificed in a motor bind up condition. Pull the knob off and watch the shaft while the motor is running (or supposed to be) and see if the shaft is spinning. May help to make a small mark with a sharpie or some such to view this more easily. if it is spinning, then either the gear box or crank arm is at fault. Being new crank arms, I suspect the gearbox (and most likely the delrin rollers) will be at fault. If it isn't spinning, then either it isn't getting power or it is bound up somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 I know this isn't a Firebird, but near as I can tell it's the same motor with a different arm and these things should work just as well in a Reatta. http://my.execpc.com/C4/4A/rodney1/firebird/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 Alright. Contact cleaner on the connectors got the motors spinning. The driver's side one is now displaying the same effects as when the bushings disintegrated the first time. If I coax it just right I can get the headlight to lift up but it is definitely binding on something. So, it has indeed crushed the bushings but the good news is the motor still works. So, with that in mind, I should in theory just rebuild the motor again and be fine. I'm thinking that the simple act of taking the assembly apart and putting it back together will fix the binding issue but I'll 100% test the assembly in the car without the motor attached to be sure. If this has happened to anyone else, I'm curious as to what yours hung up on. In regards to tapping the brake pedal to make the lights pop up, I have no idea why they do this now. I've had a lot of quirky, high mileage vehicles so I've just learned to deal with it. I'm thinking it has something to do with the higher wattage headlamps and voltage drop when pushing the brake pedal but I'm a mechanical engineer not an electrical engineer and I have no problem admitting when I have no idea what I'm talking about....like right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 3 hours ago, 89RedSlate said: ???? I agree, ???. I believe it happens, have no explanation for the coinciding action and I have a degree in electrical engineering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 1 minute ago, Digger914 said: I agree, ???. I believe it happens, have no explanation for the coinciding action and I have a degree in electrical engineering. I think the switch in the dash is bad. I'm going to be replacing the pods soon as well but I'm just trying to get the pressing issues out of the way. I'm driving from East TX to Panama City Beach this weekend and kind of need headlights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 1 hour ago, 89RedSlate said: If you look closely- their setup is very different; it appears it doesn't use the same "plastic rollers" that a Reatta does. The new (same as OEM) doesn't have any pockets at all. It uses a "rubber bumper". Their motor housings also appear to be plastic unlike our die cast aluminum. See these differences? (photo of my own rebuild, powdered Delrin) To find the gear set that should fit the Reatta you need to click on the click here for 87 to 92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I have rebuilt well over 100 headlight motors and have only seen one plastic gear that was bad. Because of that, I have a good supply of good used original plastic gears....... available for $15 each including shipping, I will even include 3 new plastic rollers with the used gear. The original Bellcrank/arm is the external part that usually fails........there are 3 people selling steel replacement Bellcranks....they are all far superior to the original part. The one I have been making/selling for at least 10 years I guarantee for as long as you own the car, and the price for the steel Bellcrank is the lowest priced at $40 including shipping and instructions. If you want my KIT which includes Bellcrank, 3 rollers, UPSTOP nut, instructions and shipping the total price is $45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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