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1955 Buick general questions


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 It is best to have an edition that is 3-4 years younger than the car/parts you are interested in. In other words in your case Kosage at least the 25th to 28th edition.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hollander-1951-1961-27th-Edition-Auto-Truck-Parts-Interchange-Manual-/142175373247?hash=item211a5007bf:g:RewAAOSw44BYB~2T&vxp=mtr

 

I have the 28th edition and find it useful for body parts, glass etc. 

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2 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 It is best to have an edition that is 3-4 years younger than the car/parts you are interested in. In other words in your case Kosage at least the 25th to 28th edition.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hollander-1951-1961-27th-Edition-Auto-Truck-Parts-Interchange-Manual-/142175373247?hash=item211a5007bf:g:RewAAOSw44BYB~2T&vxp=mtr

 

I have the 28th edition and find it useful for body parts, glass etc. 

Thank you Mr Lamar.  I will make a note of that.  I also would like the chassis manual.  Any specific recommendation for that?

 

2 hours ago, buick5563 said:

I have a two pack of Hollanders that have only been opened twice in 20 years if you're want them. (Not free)

This is NOT a compliment for the manuals. 

What edition do you have and what would you sell them for?  Thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Please excuse my ignorance, but are both of these manuals applicable to 55 buicks?  Mr Lamar mentioned getting ones that are 3 to 4 years below my cars year. 

 

Also, what would 50 dollars cover in this case?  Both books shown...shipping?  I just want to be sure we have an understanding.  I really appreciate your time.  Thank you Sir.

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Yeah man, It would cover both books shipped. 

 

Remember what I said in post 43^^^

I have only used them twice in the twenty years I have owned them. In other words, they haven't helped me that much. Other people have had success with them. 

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On 12/4/2016 at 6:23 AM, buick5563 said:

Yeah man, It would cover both books shipped. 

 

Remember what I said in post 43^^^

I have only used them twice in the twenty years I have owned them. In other words, they haven't helped me that much. Other people have had success with them. 

I appreciate your kind offer, but I am going to pass on the books.  Thank you.

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I think what Mike is trying to say is 

1 hour ago, buick5563 said:

Don't waste your money on interchange manuals. 

 

Instead invest in a set of Master Body and Chassis books. And in your case I would recommend nothing later than 193? - 1957 or 58. Your main interest will be parts interchangeability between 50s Buicks and that's the best source for that. There are also code letters present that identify when a part also interchanges with olds and Pontiac. Reproductions are available but I personally love using the old hardbacks and the musky smell while flipping back and forth through them. 

 

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38 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

I think what Mike is trying to say is 

 

Instead invest in a set of Master Body and Chassis books. And in your case I would recommend nothing later than 193? - 1957 or 58. Your main interest will be parts interchangeability between 50s Buicks and that's the best source for that. There are also code letters present that identify when a part also interchanges with olds and Pontiac. Reproductions are available but I personally love using the old hardbacks and the musky smell while flipping back and forth through them. 

 

How much would this usually cost?  I finally have some money free to spend.

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Kosage,  here in my opinion would be the most ideal set of master parts books for you. The top ones are the originals and the bottoms reproductions. I generally use these for most of my searches.  If just checking for interchange I will use the reproductions. But if looking for diagrams the originals are 500% clearer. IMG_2129.JPGIMG_2131.JPGIMG_2132.JPGIMG_2133.JPG 

There is currently a set of the originals on eBay for like $150 each which is pretty much the Buy it Now going rate, sometimes cheaper with an auction. Haven't seen the reproductions for sale lately, I bought mine 6-7 years ago, they can go for like 50-60 bucks. 

 

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6 minutes ago, buick5563 said:

Still...

Buy something for the car!

These won't help you now.

 

Can't fully agree with Mike on this one.... (first time I think I have ever said that)  $100 spent on a couple parts books now could easily save double that in purchasing wrong parts that some unscrupulous eBay seller claims will fit your car. Plus the diagrams are invaluable in showing nomenclature and parts breakdowns to help in both disassembly and assembly. Plus you really don't want to be asking folks all the time if this part will fit my car, they will at some point probably tell you "dude, buy a parts book" :)    jus sayin.....

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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone have pictures of the power window regulators for the front and rear. I don't know how many different variations there was with the front and with the rear, but I am looking for the 2 door hardtop set up that fits a 55 Century.  Are any interchangeable between a 54-56 buick, oldsmobile, cadillac?)  Thank you.

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I know kits exist. They're bolt in just like the originals for 375 a pair. I found the link from a seven year old thread, Willie actually shared the link. I'm at work right now but can get it for you when I'm off. 

 

The switches can be sourced from Fusick.

 

The mechanisms for the windows interchange between Buick and Olds. Maybe Pontiac? 

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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24 minutes ago, Beemon said:

I know kits exist. They're bolt in just like the originals for 375 a pair. I found the link from a two year old thread, Willie actually shared the link. I'm at work right now but can get it for you when I'm off. 

 

The switches can be sourced from Fusick.

 

The mechanisms for the windows interchange between Buick and Olds. Maybe Pontiac? 

Well the good news is that I already have the all the switches and associated harnesses.  I also just purchased a whole set of motors from Mr Lamar!  Other than the relays (I think) and regulators, I am not sure what else I would need for a whole set of functioning power windows.  I am curious about that link for the new regulators.  I would like to stay factory, but I am very open to aftermarket pieces.  I did check ebay and saw a few that came off Cadillacs.  I am sure the regulators for the rear quarter window are very unique and hard to interchange, but what about the front window?

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Is the motor casing pressed together or is there a screw holding them together? When I rebuilt my power antenna motor, it had a few screws on the top that allowed it to be opened. I pulled the armature out and lubed all contact points (bushings, worm gear, nylon rollers) and rubbed the armature with an abrasive scrub sponge. I just used WD-40 white lithium grease on the rubbing areas. The carbon brushes were worn but not worn too bad so I didn't do anything with them. After buttoning it back up and grounding it, the motor turned freely and came alive. Moisture really is the #1 enemy of just about anything. I'm sure the motors are fine, just dirty and stuck.

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12 hours ago, Beemon said:

Is the motor casing pressed together or is there a screw holding them together? When I rebuilt my power antenna motor, it had a few screws on the top that allowed it to be opened. I pulled the armature out and lubed all contact points (bushings, worm gear, nylon rollers) and rubbed the armature with an abrasive scrub sponge. I just used WD-40 white lithium grease on the rubbing areas. The carbon brushes were worn but not worn too bad so I didn't do anything with them. After buttoning it back up and grounding it, the motor turned freely and came alive. Moisture really is the #1 enemy of just about anything. I'm sure the motors are fine, just dirty and stuck.

Yes, there are 2 bolts that hold the casing onto the rest of the body.  I already removed those bolts, but the casing will not come off.  I don't want to force it off for fear of breaking something.

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3 hours ago, Beemon said:

It might have a worm gear on the shaft to spin the drive gear. Try spinning the drive gear by hand and see if it comes off.

I was able to separate the casing from the body today.  I took my rubber mallet and tapped the ends of the casing in a downward direction.  I took my sweet time doing this to make sure I wouldn't break or warp anything.  The casing slowly came off and I now have access to the internals.  First observation was the amount of grit inside.  Looked like someone played with it in a sand box.  Tried turning it with my hands, but even that was impossible.  It was stuck pretty good.  I tapped on the worm gear a few times to break the gear from being stuck.  I was then able to turn by hand.  I then took some compressed air to clear the internals of any or all debris and sprayed a little lubrication inside.  Now I can turn it with my hand with ease.  I will post some pictures in a few minutes to give some visuals.

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Showing the 2 bolts that retain the casing to body. 20170116_185935.jpgShowing the bolts removed.20170116_185956.jpg  Showing one of the gears removed. 20170116_190016.jpgShowing the worm gear.20170116_190026.jpgShowing separation of casing from body.20170116_190044.jpg Showing internals on casing side. 20170116_190110.jpgShowing internals on body side.20170116_190119.jpg

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Looks just like the power antenna armature. Carefully remove it and clean off the copper surface where the brushes ride. Also scrub the magnetic surfaces gently to remove the light surface rust. When you reinstall, you can hold the carbon brushes back with two paper clips. Looks like the old grease just hardened in there and siezed it up. The gears look great! 

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Yeah, Mr Lamar sold me good set.  I am glad older car parts were made to be worked on in contrast to the mess they have today.  

 

I did try sliding the armature out, but will not do so even though it turns freely now.  Any ideas?  

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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Great news!  I was finally able to pull the armature and associated worm gear from the body.  I cleaned up all the old grease, cleaned all the contacts, applied compressed air to the whole assembly and applied new grease.  I used a modified paper clip as suggested by Ben to hold the spring loaded brushes in an open position and slid the armature into the casing.  I also used a probe to assist for this part.  Once the armature was back in place with the brushes, I untucked a main wire to give me an angle that allowed me to reinsert the worm gear into the body.  Once the worm gear was partially inserted, I was sure to tuck that wire back in and close and botton the whole assembly back up into one piece.  

 

Then came the moment of truth...the bench test.  Hooked the motor back up to the battery and worked like new.  The motor had a nice humming sound.  No roughness what so ever.  

 

One down, one to go!

Edited by Kosage Chavis
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Nice! Personally, I would do all four though. You'll install the other two you think are fine and then they load up or get too hot because of old grease and then you'll have to pull it out again. :P

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10 hours ago, Beemon said:

Nice! Personally, I would do all four though. You'll install the other two you think are fine and then they load up or get too hot because of old grease and then you'll have to pull it out again. :P

That's exactly what I planned on doing...all 4 of them.  Right now though, I just wanted to make sure all 4 are in working order before packing them up and letting them sit for a while.

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Showing armature and associated worm gear removed from body.20170120_183627.jpgShowing the body cavity where the armature was pulled from.20170120_183651.jpgShowing the modified paper clip holding the brushes in an open position.20170120_211211.jpgShowing the armature being slid in position.  I gently removed the paper clip and used a probe as needed to allow me to properly seat the armature in the casing.20170120_211233.jpgShowing the armature seated in place.  Notice the wire that is tucked in at the body. 20170120_211555.jpgShowing the wire untucked.  This is necessary to allow you an angle to insert the worm gear into the body.  This wire was tucked back in just before attaching the casing to the body.  20170120_211831.jpg

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Okay...so I started the 2nd motor and this one is in pretty bad shape.  I was able to remove the casing (after breaking one of the casing bolts:angry:).  The armature is completely stuck.  I cannot remove it, much less turn it by hand.  Any ideas?  Just by looking at the internals, it looks like it over heated pretty good.

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12 hours ago, MrEarl said:

What was the outcome of the first one?

The first motor I did turned out very well. The pictures that I posted are of the first one I did.  Works great now!  I now have 3 working motors.  Just need to figure this last one out.  I am pretty sure I can get it working again.  I just need to figure out how to remove the armature that is really stuck in place.  I will post my progress when I get a chance to work on it again.

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Soak it in WD-40 which has the best chance of being compatible with those components.  It may have been wet and if that is the case it may be no good.  With all the dissimilar metals in that motor electrolytic corrosion will fuse everything together.

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