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wiring, 29 DB truck


Guest Harry Hill

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Guest Harry Hill

My light control is on the steering wheel and the wiring is at the end of the steering shaft. I had the wiring diagram at one time but I've lost it. Does anyone have a picture of how the wiring goes or a wiring diagram. I can't tell the color of any of the wires but I think I can get them cleaned up enough to tell what is what. Also there is a wire coming out of the middle of the shaft that I believe is the horn wire. The truck has headlights and a tail/stop light. As far as I can tell there is only one fuse in the whole system. There are no instrument lights in the dash but there are two lights over the instruments that shine down on them. The truck started yesterday but doesn't seem to be getting spark today. I hope I can find a rotor and cap for the distributer. The coil is on the back of the dash and the ignition switch is part of the coil. That will probably be hard to find so I hope my coil didn't  fail.

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Guest Harry Hill

where would the number be? I believe it is six tabs but I don't know what a CLUM switch is. Is that a brand or a type of switch? My truck is unusual in that it doesn't even have a frame number.

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2 hours ago, Harry Hill said:

where would the number be? I believe it is six tabs but I don't know what a CLUM switch is. Is that a brand or a type of switch? My truck is unusual in that it doesn't even have a frame number.

Here is a six tab CLUM switch....this one is for a 1931 Dodge. there are many variations and there should be a number on the flat tab....

 

 

stuff 097.jpg

stuff 098.jpg

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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Guest Harry Hill
9 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

Here is a six tab CLUM switch....this one is for a 1931 Dodge. there are many variations and there should be a number on the flat tab....

 

 

stuff 097.jpg

stuff 098.jpg

that switch looks right, how do I remove it from the steering column? 

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On ‎4‎/‎26‎/‎2014 at 0:56 PM, frank29u said:

Unfortunately I don't know the # on my '29 Plymouth CLUM, but here's hHow my '29 is wired:

The CLUM switch terminals are numbered 1 - 3 - 2 - 4 - 6 - 5 from the engine to fender in the picture. Colors refer to cotton braid wire.

1 - Green 39 Battery (-), Red 25 Brake Lamp Switch

3 - Brown 42 Parking Lamps

2 - Black 40 Horn, Black 24 Horn Button through shaft

4 - Red 43 Head Lamp Low Beam

6 - Black 44 Head Lamp High Beam

5 - Black 11 Tail Lamp

The Light Control Lever set up:

6 o'clock position is off

5 o'clock Parking

7 o'clock Low Beam

8 o'clock High

I hope this isn't confusing. frank

CLUM1.jpg

THIS SHOULD HELP .

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Guest Harry Hill
8 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

THIS SHOULD HELP .

that is great, not at all confusing. So one of those wires should be hot and I need to figure out why I don't have a hot wire in the group of wires at the column. Once I have a hot wire I can figure out the rest. I don't have parking lights but I'm sure I can figure out the positions of on the wheel.I need to find replacements for my levers, they are broke. And I need a headlight, someone broke one of  my headlights lens. 

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Guest Harry Hill

Ugh, I'm finally getting twisted around enough I can look up under the dash at the wiring. It's all original and all in terrible shape. So a couple of days ago the truck started and ran fine but now she won't start. Looking up under the dash one of the wires from the coil has lost all its insulation, others are missing big chunks of insulation, what a mess. I'm not sure if I can tell any colors at this stage. I think I will start replacing one wire at a time. One of my problems is my back is hurt so it's hard to get twisted around, plus I'm old and too fat and the seat frame is trying to rearrange my ribs. Light is the other problem, I need to get light up in there. I really should have started this project 40 years ago. I found one wire hanging loose with a ring eye still on it so who knows where that goes.

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I was able to take the whole oval panel loose and drop below dash and work from seat . Do not know exactly what yours looks like . Usually power from battery and generator come to opposite sides of the amp gage and on bat side taps to ignition switch then to coil to power it. Other side may have one fuse this feeds lights and horn . This is my 31 anyway . My coil power is not fused and you must see amp gage draw to indicate coil is getting power . Then engage starter with foot pedal .

   Hope some one else with model closer to yours chimes in !!   TOM 

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Guest Harry Hill
54 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

I was able to take the whole oval panel loose and drop below dash and work from seat . Do not know exactly what yours looks like . Usually power from battery and generator come to opposite sides of the amp gage and on bat side taps to ignition switch then to coil to power it. Other side may have one fuse this feeds lights and horn . This is my 31 anyway . My coil power is not fused and you must see amp gage draw to indicate coil is getting power . Then engage starter with foot pedal .

   Hope some one else with model closer to yours chimes in !!   TOM 

I just found the four bolts to drop the oval so I will be dropping that tomorrow so I can work on the wiring. It would be great if I could find the correct wiring harness but I'm pretty sure that won't be at my parts store

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The harness would probable not include this short wiring . So you maybe able to just cover with tape . Others , just do one at a time . Cloth covered wire can be brought at some electrical or appliance stores ,listed as hi temp wire . Usually only available in black and white . Be sure to counter hold screw terminals with plyers to prevent bending the aged parts . Other problem areas include the horn button wire going up through the tube . Meter all circuits with VOM or bell battery before hooking to battery . A ground (wire touching metal ) or short, wire touching other wire or electrified part can go bad quick , hence the fuse . I even added a fuse to my ignition switch ,and master cut-off switch to battery because you will not get wires off fast enough when a melt down starts .

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2 hours ago, Harry Hill said:

I just found the four bolts to drop the oval so I will be dropping that tomorrow so I can work on the wiring. It would be great if I could find the correct wiring harness but I'm pretty sure that won't be at my parts store

You can go to Rhode Island Wiring and see if they have a new harness. Or YnZs. Both have websites.

 

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Guest Harry Hill
13 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

You can go to Rhode Island Wiring and see if they have a new harness. Or YnZs. Both have websites.

 

Thank You

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Guest Harry Hill
29 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

YES I do !     Wire=ing 2.pdf     Maybe I better come over too .LOL:lol:

 

                                                                                                                Tom

come on over, I'll fix you dinner

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Guest Harry Hill

Is there a source for CLUM light switches? I'm going to take mine off the truck to look for the number on it but when I have the number who do I contact to get a replacement? Or is there someone making repros?

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The CLUM 9150 is the same as the one for the 1931 Dodge passenger cars. Like the photos I showed. You should be good to go after reassembly. They are pretty straightforward units. As long as you don't over-lubricate it, it will be fine.

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9 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

It was more of a clean up ,because oil from steering box run down it . Test it first if all works do nothing . Remember 5 o'clock 1-3-5 all make . 7 o'clock 1-4-5 are made , 8 o'clock 1-6-5 made . term 2 makes to none, just junction

Are you going to or have you rebuilt the steering box? If not, the grease will continue to run down into the light switch.

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Guest Harry Hill

Okay, first I'll run a continuity test to see if all the  connections are being made, then I'll know if I have to rebuild it. I would just as soon not tear into it if I don't have to.

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Guest Harry Hill
17 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:

It was more of a clean up ,because oil from steering box run down it . Test it first if all works do nothing . Remember 5 o'clock 1-3-5 all make . 7 o'clock 1-4-5 are made , 8 o'clock 1-6-5 made . term 2 makes to none, just junction

I have the switch off the truck, it only seems to have three positions, first position 1-3-5 make circuit, middle position no circuits, third position 1-5-6 make circuit. What am I doing wrong?

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Guest Harry Hill
47 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

Do not know , unless the detent for 7 o'clock low beam is bad . How is it turning even or hard to left . You do have low beam on truck ? Hook meter up and see if 1 and 4 make as it is turned .  How is dash wiring going ?

I can turn with my fingers, it hits three spots. The first stop is 1-3-5, then the second stop is no open circuits, the next is 1-5-6. I do not know if there is a low beam on the truck. 4 never shows an open circuit in any position, either does 2. Since I am turning it with the nut it isn't easy but I can turn it. I would guess it is going 5 o'clock, 1-3-5, 6 o'clock,nothing, 7 o'clock, 1-5-6. it won't go to 8 o'clock but I haven't tried to force it. Each position is a positive stop. Maybe those big headlights don't have high and low beams, as long as I've owned the truck they have never worked. I think I've done good under the dash but the fuse holder broke so I am going to put a fuse block on the firewall for safeties sake. Lights, horn, and electric fuel pump will have their own circuit.

Edited by Harry Hill (see edit history)
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Guest Harry Hill

I took the headlight lens off, the main bulb is duel element so there is a high and low beam and parking lights, I am amazed a 29 pick up has parking lights. What this means though is the switch is not going all the way to the eight o'clock position and I will have to take the switch apart.

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Guest Harry Hill

The switch is apart, full of nasty black grease, I'm guessing it's not dielectric grease. Once I get it cleaned up I will test it again but I have a feeling 4 may start working. I was afraid to bend the little tabs as I didn't want to break the fiber board backing but it went okay. I hope bending them back goes as well. I'm going to have to rewire the lights as all the insulation on the wiring is so brittle it falls off if you touch it.

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Good going ! Yes based on numbers I figured it was going over 7 o' clock ,whatever works .. See how the springs on moving part work be sure to hold shut to take stress off small tabs when closing . Temp hold together to check . Do you have any pics yet . want to see what where working on .

   The fuse under the dash , if it like mine on amp gage, the rivets where loose giving bad connection . I removed rivets and put in tiny 4-40 brass screws from Lowes then soldiered the clip to the bus brass .

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Guest Harry Hill

I cleaned it out, lubed the back side of the plate and used dielectric grease on the contact side and put it back together and it's still skipping 7 o'clock. Maybe I need to polish the brass detents so they move smoother from position to position. It still seems awful stiff from spot to spot and I still don't get a circuit at 4. At this point it seems harder to move so I may have to take it apart again. This time I'll take pictures of it apart.

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Guest Harry Hill

Okay, after a few times taking the switch apart and putting it back together I discovered it wasn't going to the 8 o'clock position which was why tab four wasn't showing any current. I've got that working now and here is my findings 5 o'clock is tab 1-3-5, 6 o'clock, no tabs show current, 7 o'clock is 1-5-6 and 8 o'clock is 1-5-4. Luckily I got it back together with still nothing broken. Now on to rewiring the lights. All of this is keeping me from worrying about the wood work that is waiting for me. Thank you all for the help so far. Here is the switch apart.

2016-09-05 17.20.42.jpg

2016-09-05 17.20.48.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

I have not see that type yet . What is wrong with it . From wiring diagram others should work . If that is wiring diagram of your truck ,why is power wire from generator crossed out ? And it looks like switch has a dimming coil for the low beam . I am not sure how it is suppose to work , unless it just adds to the optical direction-ing of the beam . By dimming . The switch seems to have six terms using 5 .

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