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cone clutch for 20 Model H Stutz


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Looking for information on rebuilding a cone clutch on my 20 Stutz model H touring, the old leather facing has fallen apart.<BR>I have seen an ad in Hemmigs for a "kevlar" cone clutch, has anyone done this. <P>Thanks <BR>Charles Semple<BR>cosemple@yahoo.com<BR>915-684-9711

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Charles,<P>I do not have a Stutz, but I do have two cars that do have cone clutches. I have a 1910 Overland that has a clutch facing that has been in the car since 1969 and is not leather, it is a brake linning material of some sort. The other one is a 1914 Buick that I have replaced with new leather and have had no problem with. I have not personaly experenced the Kevelar material. My personal thought is - - - -If the car came with leather then I will put leather back on. There are some things as far as taking care of a cone clutch that need to be done if you go with the leather.<P>Dan

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I would agree with Dan. Although alot of collectors go with Kevlar in there cone clutches, I have found Kevlar to be too grabby and thus putting alot of strain on everything else when it engages. Leather, when properly installed and seated seems to give the smoothest engagement and creates less problems. While it may wear out sooner than Kevlar, with proper driving habits, it should be just fine. It seems alot of collectors think just because they have Kevlar, they can operate their clutch like a modern single plate clutch, which is not the case. While the Kevlar may withstand this, the other components in the car are not as forgiving (driveshaft,ujoint,differential, keyways, etc.). The only exception I would make is if the clutch is constantly in oil-in this case, Kevlar seems to work fine as there is a fair amount of allowable slippage. That's why Kevlar bands in a planetary transmission (like a Model T) tend to work well. Just my thoughts...-GZ

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Dan and GZ:<P>Thanks for your input on the cone clutch, I will probally go back with leather. Any suggestions on a good rebuilder for this?<P>Charlie

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