lelshaddai Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hard to see in the pic. The tube is clearly in there with the cut outs for distribution. I am having difficulties getting it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Looks like a brass tube. If that's the case it shouldn't have any rot in it so the coolant should flow properly unless there is an obstruction. I'm pretty sure they come out very hard and I wouldn't take it out unless you have another one sourced as you may destroy it trying to remove it. I wouldn't think the tube would be a problem as the car ran fine before the repair. I would look primarily at anything you did and the parts you used unless you moved some crud around and blocked something. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capngrog Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 The new head gasket looks much better and less restrictive of the water flow. That should make a difference, so let us know how it works out. Cheers, Grog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 22, 2016 Author Share Posted July 22, 2016 OK, so I think the overheating is much better. Granted I have not done the road test but it was at idle in over 100 degrees for 45 minutes and it never got hot enough to open the thermostat. I opened the holes on the distribution tubes and opened the holes on the head gasket. I placed a working 180 stat from a parts car I had. The gauge would show almost to the white zone but the thermostat did not open and the stat housing never was above 165. I cannot road test it right now since the gearbox is half out to work on it. New problem. It smokes on hard rpm increase. I do not believe it did this before. It does not smoke at idle or at constant high rpms only when there is a burst of rpms. I replaced the stem seals. It idles at 800 and timed at ten. It does do a brief wobble once in a while when running. When I took the head off two of the cylinders filled with antifreeze. I quickly drained and dried them out and rubbed a little oil in the cylinder to keep from problems. I did ream out the head gasket water holes a little to allow more water flow but the gasket was sealed with copper sealant. The cylinder walls are very smooth and did not fell like there was a ring problem. How long would the residual antifreeze and oil burn until it was gone? I did not recheck the valve lash the second time can this cause it? Engines have always been my problem. Learn by doing and mistakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 If a thermostat is in a normal spot...it could not remain closed on 100 degree day for 45 minutes. That is impossible. Thermostats are designed to quickly bring engine coolant temps up to the running temp, to run better, and have less start up wear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 (edited) That is one of the worst fitting gaskets I have seen in awhile. What engine is that & can you get a gasket that fits? Those holes should line up almost perfectly. Edited July 22, 2016 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 You might get a bit of smoke after such long periods of idling. Wait until you can drive it again with a load on the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 The Gasket is for a 1969 Volvo B20B engine. They are all like that. No matter what vendor. I have tried two had to ream out the holes to fit better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 I don't know much about Volvos, but I have never seen a head gasket that fit that poorly. Is it possible that the engine is not original to the car? Perhaps it is a slightly different year or model engine? Perhaps you could send a photo of how far off the gasket fit is to the vendor and maybe they will recognize what the engine is? I can't imagine that any manufacturer would make a gasket that is that far off from the actual engine shape. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 I am at my wits end. I cannot solve this overheat problem even with 3 manuals(including greenbooks) all of your advice out there and a friend who is a city mechanic. Things I have done: 1. I have three working thermostats that open in boiling water. One is a 160, two are 180's. Neither type helped or hurt. 2. Replaced head gasket, twice, and changed the holes to match better the water holes. 3. Pulled the distribution tube and increase the slot size to the cylinders 4. New 4 lb rad cap. 5. Timed 10degrees, valve lash correct .020, idle 800rpms, carb rebuilt and set correctly 6. Fan mounted correctly 7. Radiator has 15degrees difference in in temp and out 8. Temp gauge reads correctly 9. New water pump 10. 50/50 coolant mix So what am I missing? Engine has been cleaned and blown out and flushed. The only thing I have left to suspect is the water pump. The old one was still working so I guess I will change them out. Yes it is hot here, 102 in the garage but it did not overheat before I had to pull the engine. I have pictures of the latest readings. It did boil over this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 This pic is a new old stock gasket. You can see the differences. I sent pics to the vendor and they are aware of it. The new gasket is correct for the engine. All that I have seen are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Constantly starting different discussions makes it very difficult for anyone to follow your story and help you. I am going to attempt to merge your separate discussions to help make it easier for people to follow the discussion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 The last photo that you posted does not match the previous gasket photos. I have no idea what type of engine you have or what type of gasket you are trying to make fit it. I hope you find a source for a gasket that matches your engine. I am relatively sure that you are not going to solve your problems until you have a gasket that closely matches the engine. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) 19 minutes ago, lelshaddai said: The only thing I have left to suspect is the water pump. The old one was still working so I guess I will change them out. I don't change parts to guess.. If the filler cap is near the upper hose, do you see lots of water movement? I also feel the air coming off the back side of fan...to tell if fan is pulling lots of hot air. Then I feel the face of radiator FRONT all over, looking for hot spots or cool spots. I don't always trust timing marks if on a rubber mounted pulley/damper, as it can move. I'd almost try setting timing by ear, to find out if it then sounds like it was very retarded. That will overheat. that aftermarket carb? is two stage progressive? A local guy burned the new exhaust valves out of a fresh machine shop done B20 rebuild. It was jetted way too lean, but being yours heats at idle, that is not suspect (yet) (edit, I now recall he melted the pistons, not the valves) Edited July 23, 2016 by F&J add correction. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 The engine is a 1969 Volvo B20B . The last gasket picture is the correct gasket but is new old stock. The rest that I have been showing is what you get now. They fit correctly but cover part of the water distribution holes in the block and head. I have seen others where they ream out the holes like I did to make them fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 Thank you for all the help. I started different threads because I have two problems. I tried to split this one off. I just am not sure what else to do. I am not much of a mechanic and am shooting blind here. Believe me I have tried quite a few of the ideas presented here. I will try feeling the radiator tomorrow. I do not see a lot of movement of water with the cap off that is what made me suspect the water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 I have combined the three discussions so that now all of the comments are in one discussion. This should enable it to be much easier for people to help you. If you are not seeing significant water movement in the radiator it sounds like a good chance that you need to replace the water pump. Clearly without good water circulation, it is going to overheat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capngrog Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 As several have previously suggested, check the distributor timing curve. Vacuum advance is desirable on a stock engine driven in a stock manner. I could go into why some race car types don't like vacuum advance, but for the sake of brevity, I won't. I don't know what the recommended temperature differences are for a Volvo, but for a Chevrolet 350, I look for a 30 degree F. difference in the radiator inlet temperature and the outlet temperature. Good luck, Grog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Or, given the engine issue, could the rong water pump gasket block it ? Remember mention of a water bypass under the thermostat that needs to be blocked. Was that taken care of ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 I spoke with My Mechanic friend tonight also. I have troubleshooted everything but the new water pump. I did not see great water flow, and it sounds like I should have a greater temp difference in the radiator. Off it goes Saturday and I will reinstall the old one. I know it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 It is hard to tell in your photos, but check the pump impeller to see if it may be on backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) Take a small mirror and look across radiator coils . See if any blockages ,debris or build up . May be find local inspection company that has IR scanner with video to see if hot spot can be localized . The non-contact temp gun you have is good . But a pic will give you better picture of radiator, heat distribution on block, flow around stat . Edited July 23, 2016 by ArticiferTom punication (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 My mechanic friend mentioned the idea that the impeller may be backwards or off. The radiator comes off today also for inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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