Coronet440

Is Relay the issue for my pull down?

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Hello, been having an issue with my top pull down on a 90 v6. I tried to latch it the other day and went to push the button, i could hear it operate but nothing was observed. Tried operating again, and wouldn't do anything in either direction. Only thing I could hear was a delayed click, which I assumed to be the delay relay that allows you to tap the pull down button rather than hold. I tried holding and tapping, many times, and could only hear that relay click any time I tried to push the down toggle. I would hear nothing when I pushed it up. I took it out and took it apart, based on feedback from other posts which suggested it could be the gear or housing. I harvested the mechanism from my parts tc (a 91) which was identical and it looked to be in great shape. Took them both apart completely, changed out grease, cleaned all connections with sandpaper and electric parts cleaner, took the best parts from both pull downs and reassembled it. Installed it and gave it a test without latching the top and by golly it did it again. Functioned once going down, and then I could get nothing more than an audible click of the delay relay.

 

Gear is great, housing isn't cracked, I cleaned up the motor and it isn't binding, and clearly it's getting power from the pull-down switch  (I put multimeter to it just to be sure, both positions when pushing the switch show power off the main harness that connects to the pull down harness) the metal cased relay has some rust on the housing and terminals, and both of those relays that I have look to be in the same condition. I tried swapping relays and swapping harnesses with no change in performance. The paddle switch looks okay on the outside, but who knows what's going on inside.

 

Does this sound like a power relay issue, or something else? I would say maybe it's the paddle switch, except that the motor isn't doing anything, so that switch isn't even getting activated.

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It might be the position/stop switch. It sounds like it will allow it to go one way, but doesn't swap the polarity (I think that's what it does, I never actually tested it). This is the part with the little paddles on it. They are known to go bad.

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Are these found anywhere? I plan on going to chrysler nationals at carlisle on Saturday, maybe they'd have some sort of replacement there?

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I do believe they are available from the aftermarket, but you have to look it up for GM stuff. I think somebody has posted the part numbers as well. You might be able to find it in a junkyard as well.

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Sound like you swapped out everything but the paddle switch and these things are usually the problem, they can also be cleaned and a good picture of where to drill the cleaning hole is found in the last posting link. Other postings are every top pulldown I've responded to in the last couple of years, should answer your question. Stretched for time this week so these will have to do, if it's not enough PM me and we will swap phone numbers, writing takes to much time.

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/278088-top-pull-down-mechanism/?

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/277413-top-pull-down-motor-not-locking-or-unlocking/?

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/274841-top-pull-down/?

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/261402-paddle-switch-for-top-pull-down/?

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/261402-paddle-switch-for-top-pull-down/?

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/260147-top-pull-down-mechanism/?

 

Edited by Digger914
links not connecting (see edit history)

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I have a question about the lube for the pull down  unit, when I took my unit out( not working at all) the plastic housing appears to be chock full of a fairly stiff light blue lube. What is the proper lube and how much should be used?

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Just wondering if this is the right positioning of the pull-down mechanism. It seems odd that the pin off of the manual top release isn't nested between the 2 hooks but rather to the right of both hooks when looking at it from the trunk. Is that correct? I'll try to upload a picture

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I've tried several times to upload a picture but I keep getting error messages. Will try uploading on a similar thread or posting elsewhere and linking.

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Here we go. Does this look right? The pins are in the latches, but won't pull down tight even with the pulldown bracket adjusted as low as possible. I feel like I need to use far too much force in order to get anything to pull down. Does this look right? I've ordered a replacement paddle switch which will hopefully resolve my electrical issues, but I'm concerned about it mechanically.

 

13900183_10157228745165065_6266359417459

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Hi, Coronet440, I am having similar problems,(4 years), Where did you get the part # for the paddle switch? I have been led to believe that they are no longer available new. I wonder where Larry C.,(TC Parts) gets parts to repair them. He offers a service to repair these assy's. I would think to ship that assy., to Arizona from Canada for repairs would cost a fortune. That is why I am trying to repair it myself  thanks, Bob Barrow. 

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The latch doesn't look reset to me. I'm fairly sure that the hook at the bottom of the picture is supposed to be "grasping" the pin that's roughly at the 1-o'clock position to the manual release nut.

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11 hours ago, Bob Barrow said:

Hi, Coronet440, I am having similar problems,(4 years), Where did you get the part # for the paddle switch? I have been led to believe that they are no longer available new. I wonder where Larry C.,(TC Parts) gets parts to repair them. He offers a service to repair these assy's. I would think to ship that assy., to Arizona from Canada for repairs would cost a fortune. That is why I am trying to repair it myself  thanks, Bob Barrow. 

I bought an identical GM trunk pull down switch (ACDelco 16629927 GM Original Equipment Trunk Lid Pull Down Switch, it's used for a variety of Cadillac for several model years, according to various suppliers, but looks identical to our part in pictures).

 

Reaper, that bottom hook (6 o'clock) catches the arm that extends and retracts from the left that comes from the pull down motor assembly (which I have removed at the moment, as I assume it is not used for the manual process). In turning the nut from the trunk, the pin at the 1 o'clock seems to interact with either the hook at 11 o'clock or the hook at 10 o'clock, but it looks like the 11 o'clock hook is worn from having the pin slide across it instead of catching it. The bracket that the pin is on is bent slightly to where, with a ton of force, it might be possible to slide it over, but the bracket is such a thick piece that it would shock me if it isn't supposed to be bent because I wouldn't have any idea how it got like that.

 

I can take more pictures if it would help to explain.

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Yeah, I see what you are saying. Darn, wish I had the hard top off of my parts car here. :( Maybe I have pictures of when I did mine. Let me look.

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Ok, I found my pictures. Unfortunately because of where they are stored I'm not sure how to share them. Suffice it to say that the pin at 1 o'clock should be between the two "hooks" at 10&11 o'clock.

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How bizarre, strangely enough my parts car pull down assembly has the same issue, which is why I didn't question it at first. I don't know how or why, but somehow the bracket for that pin has gotten twisted on both of them and allowed the pins to slip by the 11 o'clock hook. I wonder if this is the mysterious cause of many people's tops where the electrical fixes don't seem to resolve anything...

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MVC-018S.JPG This is how it should look all together and operational.

 

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17 minutes ago, Garnet & Gold said:

Yuck Bro, it's got the blue original grease.

It is a photograph from 1999, from some TC. Just using it as an example.

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