dalef62

1950 Crosley Farm O Road Restoration and more

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As promised, all parts back from the blasters last evening.  Looking good.  Wheels and shock brackets will be powder coated and frame will be painted after some light filling is done.

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Got the bottom side and sides of the frame primed today.  As small and light as the frame is I didn't want to flip it while painting it.  Will do some filling and sanding on the bottom side before I flip it and prime the top side and sides again.  Does anyone see what is missing on the frame from the previous pictures?

 Progress...

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Edited by dalef62 (see edit history)

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Yep....those rusty panels that were still on there after blasting.

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That's it, the battery box panels are gone. 

Let the filling begin...

Note the very sloppy welds.  If you were in a welding class, you would fail making welds like that.:o

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WOW! Were they all built like that? They must not have been very picky hiring anyone with actual skills.

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I had a whole session on frame welds with the judges in Charlotte when I went for my Junior.  It was hard for them to believe that they left the factory looking like that.   I struggled a bit to find doccumentation to prove it. Finally Jim Bollman had some factory pictures of the back of one showing the welds that I was able to blow up enough to show how they were.  I was ready when I went back the next yearfor the senior.  Watching the chassis judge looking at the frame in the front and then talking to the team leader I was ready when he came to me.   "You want to talk about those crappy welds?" I asked.  "No," he said  "we know about those, I want to talk about  some paint overspray on the shocks that doesn't belong"   I laughed... Got the senior!!  

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Today was spent knocking the front axle apart.  Removed the springs, wheels and steering components and started cleaning it up. Hope to get the axle in paint soon.  Lots of pictures for documentation and for your viewing pleasure.

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Dale, you continue to impress me with how quickly you are moving along with this project. Thanks for the pictures too, this is very interesting to me since I have never seen one of these before. Nice to know how they are constructed.

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Thank you Paul.  Just working on it when I can, and as others have said, it is good to do at least one thing per day on it or you loose interest.

A couple of pictures of some factory yellow paint on the passenger side of the front axle.  What it means, I don't know?

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Dale, have you been able to assess the condition of the drive train?  What about the engine?  Will you upgrade to a different engine?

 

 

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John,

I tried to start the engine prior to disassembly, but it would not run.  It is the same engine in all Crosley's and my plan is to remove the engine from my 1950 Crosley convertible and install it in the FOR.  I had pulled the original engine(someone titled the car with the engine #) out of the convertible a few years ago because of bad compression and installed a spare engine so I could take it to the National meet. I don't think the engine that was in the FOR is that bad but the spare engine runs and will get me on the road quicker.  As far as the driveline, nothing was tested prior to removal, but will be inspecting them as I restore them.  So far everything looks good. 

Edited by dalef62 (see edit history)

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Check the front pulley on the engine you pulled out of the FOR. I got my FOR from my Dad and he had put a generator engine in it converted to car. I have all the stuff to put hydraulics on if I want to, but was missing the part that goes on the pulley to drive the pump. When cleaning out my Dad's Crosley stuff I found an engine with the part so I know it is the engine that came out of the FOR. Engine number is in the right range to be the factory original.

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Jim,

I will check that pulley, you can see a few pictures of the pulley in the post with the body off.  I am missing all the hydraulic parts, ie, pump, hoses, valve, cylinder.  Do you want to sell yours?

Edited by dalef62 (see edit history)

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It seems a bit odd to have a washer or shim below the steering knuckle as well as the thrust "bearing" at the top?

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Yep, I think I can see the two posts sticking out that drives the hydraulic pump. There is a spacer that goes over the pins and then matching pins on the pump go into the spacer on the opposite side. The bracket that holds the pump shows in the engine picture.

 

I plan to keep my hydraulics, not sure what I will do in the future. If I get something to hang off the lift hitch I may want to install it. I was warned that the hydraulic pump will not hold up to road speed driving for very long and I do like to get out on the road from time to time.

 

PS: I did sell off my military tires a few years ago at the Nationals because I didn't feel safe driving at speed with them. I was going to have two sets of rims and tires and switch back and forth but decided it wasn't worth the bother. The military tires were an option, there are plenty of factory photos showing standard car tires for the 5 primary positions and tractor treads on the duals.

Edited by Jim Bollman
added PS (see edit history)

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Been spending time on all the small parts.  Running them over the wire wheel to remove the big stuff.  66 years of crud built upon them, stuff that the sand blaster won't touch.  Some now will be sand blasted, some cleaned and painted or powder coated.

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Been spending time on my 1990 Thunderbird that I just got out of storage, my jet skis and other things.  Not enjoying them, working on them.  Last fall my jet ski broke the intake grate and I replaced it only to find it still wasn't running right, come to find out a week or two ago that it was missing the intake shoe, I got a used one off craigslist and put it in, now it should run right again. 

I bought a 1990 Thunderbird LX brand new in 1990 and it has been in storage since 2000, has less than 24,000 miles on it and I decided now that it is an antique, time to get it out.   Also, the kids are gone, so they won't be messing up the interior. :D  Had to replace the fuel pump to get it to run, and the radio is not working.  Has optional external CD player that works part time too. I have read that those radios were junk, so I need to find one that is set up for the external CD player. 

I also had to get the 1950 Crosley tow truck running as we (Kiski Valley Region) are using it in the photo shoot for our car cruise on August 17th.  Wasn't hard to get it running but had to move a few cars to get it out.  Needs cleaned up some, but it is now ready.

On the FOR, I worked on it some today, welding in some of the large hole in the rear of the frame.  At some point in time someone torched  the hole to make it bigger.  I laid a bead of weld around it and then ground it smooth

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Edited by dalef62 (see edit history)

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Last bits of welding on the frame.  The steering box had broke a piece from the mount and needed to be welded.  A piece of metal was found and cut to fit the broken area and welded in and ground smooth. 

Also more filling and sanding on the frame.

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Another great project!!

 

I couldn't help but notice the leaf spring square u-bolts.  Could I ask the dimensions for those?  I've been searching high and low for some for my 1913 Metz and have had no luck.  Those look to be about the right size.  Maybe you have a source for those and some in the same style in various sizes?

 

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Jeff,

The square u-bolts are available from various Crosley suppliers.  The size is 1 1/2" between bolt and 2 3/4" bolt length, 3/8" diameter. 

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13 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said:

Another great project!!

 

I couldn't help but notice the leaf spring square u-bolts.  Could I ask the dimensions for those?  I've been searching high and low for some for my 1913 Metz and have had no luck.  Those look to be about the right size.  Maybe you have a source for those and some in the same style in various sizes?

 

Luv2Wrench, looks like something a blacksmith could easily make out of a good grade (5 or 8) of rod, threaded the proper amount on each end. In fact, the pic of the one that dale posted looks kind of like that is how it was made.

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