Jump to content

Getting another TC on the road


Recommended Posts

Greetings to all,

New to the forum and relatively new to the TC. Up till now my extra curricular car activities have been primarily British related. My 87 y o father has turned over to me an '89 TC with slightly over 40k on the odometer.  He's owned the car since 2000 and has put less than 5 - 6K on the car. In his defense, he drove another '89 TC for well over 100k with no issues, a '88 Daytona and little Chrysler mini van with the turbo charged 4 cylinder that went like stink till it burnt to the ground with a ruptured fuel line. Although this car hasn't been driven in several years it has been cleaned and started faithfully 3-4 times a week. I've resolved a check engine light with the repair of some wiring. I'm currently trouble shooting a parasitic battery drain issue. The batt will drain overnight if left connected. I've isolated the fault to fuse #6. I'll continue to t/s that issue. I, of course have a continuous amber anti lock brake light. My father says the light has always been on since he owned the car. Trouble shooting from the Reatta forums confirm at least a bad accumulator. No surprises there.     Question #1- I understand the STC2784 or the Hydac to be acceptable subs ( although tough to obtain), is that correct and is that the direction most are taking?   Question #2- I'm not opposed to the Le Baron brake mod but have some questions regarding the parts and some of the procedures.  I've read the Allpar.com article.Hemi Dude are you open to some PM questions?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into the process of getting this car back in tip-top shape. 

Thanks,

TooFuzzy  

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today the WABCO STC2784 is readily available and the HYDAC accumulator is back order from the most reasonably priced source. A couple of weeks ago a Reatta owner made an STC compatible which is a good inch taller than the WABCO made fit and the compatible is made to service  which would make it a better buy if it fits under the hood of a TC.

 

Even though you have already determined the accumulator is bad, replacing the accumulator may not clear the amber fault so don't forget to check wheel sensors and plug connects when convenient, 

Edited by Digger914 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Digger914. Funny you should say to check the electric conns. While at the store today I bought a can of electrical contact cleaner. I'll get the tires off in the next couple of days to check the general condition of hoses, pads, rotors, etc. I'll flush and bleed the system.

With the key on, engine off, the pump will run with every application of the brake pedal leading me to believe the accum is bad...

 

Too Fuzzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Part II .....

The plot thickens-I have no windshield wipers. When you turn on the wipers the 20a fuse immediately blows. I can see a maint manual with schematics is starting to become a necessity.

 

Next question - Did the TC come with locking lug nuts? My wheels have Dodge/Chrysler style locking lug nut on each wheel and of course no key socket to be found.  

 

Too Fuzzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a dead short somewhere from switch to motor. With or without a schematic, you will need to lay an eyeball on the wires themselves to find this problem, might as well start looking while you're waiting on the book.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Work continues, the dead short in the windshield wipers turned out to be a bent contact in the wiper motor "park" circuit. I disassembled the motor, repaired, cleaned and relubed and the motor seems to function normally. I'm currently waiting on link arm bushing before I reinstall the motor.

I've resolved the parasitic battery drain issue. The drain was from the fuse #6 circuit. While looking at the trunk light I noted that the trunk lock mechanism was frozen/stuck in the open position. I mean who would know, right? With the 500 lbs trunk lid in the closed position I'd assume the lid was locked. put the key in, turn and pull the lid opens (obviously never locking). Forget the fact that the solenoid didn't work. Just another electrical glitch right? Trunk light is actuated off the lock/solenoid mechanism, so in the open position the light is on...even with the deck lid closed. I used some penetrating oil then white grease to the mechanism and all functions normally. The bonus is the solenoid now function electrically also! No more parasitic drain.

I took the car out for a short drive (20 miles or so). The car seems to run good. Oil pressure, engine temps, braking and steering all seem good.

The anti lock light is still an issue but I resolve that in time. Clearances are tight under the hood and the Wabco accum may not work without some mods. For now I'll wait for the Hydac accum or pursue the Le Baron brake mod route.

I still need to get the locking lug nut off the wheels so I can inspect brake pads, wheels sensors, etc. I think with some tune up work Ill be registering the car in the next couple of weeks.

 

Has any one made the Le Baron brake mod to their car?? I have a couple of question regarding the procedure and parts?

 

Too Fuzzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Refrigerators and trunk lights, do they really turn off when you close the door? Be glad you're lock was stuck in the open position, the stuck closed is a real pain. Wouldn't hurt to pluck the key lock and put a bead of silicone around the edge and the deck lid. It will help to keep the moisture out and maybe even prevent the latch from sticking again.

 

There is a universal locking lug nut removal set that will let you remove all styles of locking lug nuts, some come off easier than others, they all come off. Should be able to rent what you need if you're anywhere close to an O'Reilly's,  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuzzy, it sounds like your dad found a great caretaker for his TCB)  Clearly you are putting in the time and effort to get the 'little things' sorted out.  Nice work.  I'd like to ask a little more about you and your car tho...  Where are the two of you located, and what engine package/color combination do you have?

Link to post
Share on other sites

The car was original to New York state. My father purchased the car in Las Vegas in 2000 and then moved in with me about 2 1/2 years ago. He brought that car and 6 others of various makes and years. The wife and I are now located in S.W. Missouri after 25 years in No. California. I'm recently retired. Fortunately I have a barn to store his cars and my 4 brit sports car projects.  Can you spell not enough time?

The car is a 1989 Exotic Red with tan interior and the 2.2l 4 cy turbocharge motor with an automatic. The car shows a touch over 41k on the odometer. The body is straight as an arrow less some door dings. The interior is fair at best. The leather seats are dry, dry, dry.  I'll try to condition them at some point. Overall the car is in good shape and I'll hopefully turn it to a daily driver, tho I rarely make the 13 mile drive to town. I find my goats and chickens better company....

 

Too Fuzzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very good Fuzz, but wait, doesn't being retirerd mean that you have nothing but time for *all* the projects:lol:

 

One thing I recommend to any TC owner that want's to put miles on in a 'sporting' fashion is to change out the rear springs to the HD units from a Daytona.  The wire diameter is actually thicker (.276 vs .253 stock IIRC) and they take away that rear floaty feel.  I've done it on each of my TC's and it's usually the first or second mod along with a good high flow exhaust.  I'm not sure if they are available on Rock auto or similar online because I've always sourced them out from pick a part yards or bought them from the forums from 89-90 Shelby Daytona's or 91-93 Daytona IROC's.  They will sit a little higher than stock so I use a grinder to cut 1/2 coil off each spring.  Now then add a little more power (or a lot ;-)  )  and it will make that 13 mile trip to town for chicken feed a bunch more enjoyable!  RDI Performance offers a nice little drop in SMEC module that's a 10 minute install and lots of smiles when your right foot is feeling heavy.

20160126_111536.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Being new at this retirement thing, I'm learning how to pace myself. I'm finding instead of spending 10 minutes in the morning with my coffee, an hour or so is becoming more the norm.

I got the wiper arms bushed, new blades and the wiper system back in the car. I love it when a plan comes together ( for however long it lasts). I got through the biggest hold up this afternoon by getting the locking wheel lug nuts off. I will say I broke my favorite 13/16 socket in the process though. This will allow me to inspect, bleed, lube, and pack before the state safety inspection. I might have to turn off/cover/remove that anti lock brake light first though. I bought some high pressure fuel line for to replace the lines from the fire wall to the fuel regulator, cheap insurance. I was talking to my father about his Chrysler mini van that burnt to the ground and one of those lines had apparently had ruptured. Too bad because that vehicle went like stink.

After I get this beast up and running I'll check into the spring tip. Thanks Twin Cam Fan!

I love the size of the trunk in this car. I'm thinking I could get a little straw to put back there and take the chickens to town with me!

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, Too Fuzzy said:

Being new at this retirement thing, I'm learning how to pace myself. I'm finding instead of spending 10 minutes in the morning with my coffee, an hour or so is becoming more the norm.

I got the wiper arms bushed, new blades and the wiper system back in the car. I love it when a plan comes together ( for however long it lasts). I got through the biggest hold up this afternoon by getting the locking wheel lug nuts off. I will say I broke my favorite 13/16 socket in the process though. This will allow me to inspect, bleed, lube, and pack before the state safety inspection. I might have to turn off/cover/remove that anti lock brake light first though. I bought some high pressure fuel line for to replace the lines from the fire wall to the fuel regulator, cheap insurance. I was talking to my father about his Chrysler mini van that burnt to the ground and one of those lines had apparently had ruptured. Too bad because that vehicle went like stink.

After I get this beast up and running I'll check into the spring tip. Thanks Twin Cam Fan!

I love the size of the trunk in this car. I'm thinking I could get a little straw to put back there and take the chickens to town with me!

 

 

good choice doing the fuel lines right now. Took me all of half an hour to do both.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, a minor celebration here. We passed the state safety inspection and got the car registered! I'm legal to drive now.  I had to get the center brake light working before the inspection today. Dang! I had to remove the hard top to open the tonneau to remove the brake light. Well of course it wasn't a bulb issue. I had to solder one of the connections internal to the lamp assembly. Rigged up a sling for the hard top and hooked it to the bucket on my tractor where it still dangles.

Two glitches on the trip to town and back. 1.) When leaving one of the fast food eateries, the car had a hard time starting. It acted as if it was trying to run on 1 or 2 cylinder or if it was really flooded.  It took 3 or 4 tries to get it running. When it started it fired right off as if nothing was wrong.  No other starting issues  2.) I lost the tach for 5 or 10 minutes on the way home. I was cruising at 70mph. No other issues were noted.

I'll pull the engine codes and see if there is any clues there. I'm sure a fuel filter could be replaced at least precautionary. The car will get a dose of injector cleaner at the next fill up also.

More to do, more to do....

 

Too Fuzzy

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Too Fuzzy said:

Well, a minor celebration here. We passed the state safety inspection and got the car registered! I'm legal to drive now.  I had to get the center brake light working before the inspection today. Dang! I had to remove the hard top to open the tonneau to remove the brake light. Well of course it wasn't a bulb issue. I had to solder one of the connections internal to the lamp assembly. Rigged up a sling for the hard top and hooked it to the bucket on my tractor where it still dangles.

Two glitches on the trip to town and back. 1.) When leaving one of the fast food eateries, the car had a hard time starting. It acted as if it was trying to run on 1 or 2 cylinder or if it was really flooded.  It took 3 or 4 tries to get it running. When it started it fired right off as if nothing was wrong.  No other starting issues  2.) I lost the tach for 5 or 10 minutes on the way home. I was cruising at 70mph. No other issues were noted.

I'll pull the engine codes and see if there is any clues there. I'm sure a fuel filter could be replaced at least precautionary. The car will get a dose of injector cleaner at the next fill up also.

More to do, more to do....

 

Too Fuzzy

 

good work! I'd love to see a picture of the hardtop hanging from the tractor bucket if that's available hahaha

Link to post
Share on other sites

EmmettTC and list,

Sorry, I've already set it into a hard top stand. I'll pick up the whole mess the same way and move it to the barn in the next day or two. When I do I'll snap a photo.

 

I put about 50 miles on the car this morning, top down, while it was cool out. The car seems to run good. Looking over everything I notice the passenger side inner CV joint is slinging a small amount of grease. I guess that means the boot has a small crack or a small amount of grease left. Hmmm. (put it on the list). I was looking at vacuum line condition this morning.  The lines actually look good, no cracking and the material seems pliable. I did find a small plastic tube broke (very small in diameter). The line is located on the driver's side, runs along the main electrical harness. One end disappears under the battery tray. That side of the line is small  vacuum hose to a factory looking coupler. That side of this affair is good. The other side tracks along the right side of the brake components (m/c, etc.) then disappears through that mess of wire harness, vacuum line from the manifold, going underneath somewhere towards the fire wall. That side of the coupler is the plastic tube. I'd start by removing the batt tray to see what the line is connected to so I can get an idea of where it goes. Accessing underneath the brake components will get real crappy real quick. Anybody have ideas before I start ripping and tearing?

 

Too Fuzzy

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The old saying ( a picture is worth a thousand words )

Easier to tell you where to look for things that don't work than it is to picture what you're describing.

Through the firewall below the brakes is a thin plastic vacuum line that slips loose and disappears when it touches the exhaust manifold, it feeds the air vent controls, if your air only blows to defrost not dash and floor that would be one line you're describing.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

My 90 V6 has different plumbing so I can't say for sure, but from the location and color of the line I suspect that line eventually ends up at the heat temp control valve. When you are checking your air flow at the vents, check to see if you can control the heater temp.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think your right. I traced one side forward and down to a valve that looks inline with a water line. The tough one to find was going forward through the firewall. That line was very short and very brittle. I guess I'll try to splice under the dash and feed new into the engine compartment. Good thing its 90F with 90% humidity...

 

Thanks,

Too Fuzzy  

Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Too Fuzzy said:

I think your right. I traced one side forward and down to a valve that looks inline with a water line. The tough one to find was going forward through the firewall. That line was very short and very brittle. I guess I'll try to splice under the dash and feed new into the engine compartment. Good thing its 90F with 90% humidity...

 

Thanks,

Too Fuzzy  

I believe that is the heater control vacuum line that goes through the firewall. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Happy Spring time!(?) gang,

I haven't posted for a while. I put the car back in the barn for the winter only to drag it out for the first real snow storm of the year. Lot of nickle and dime repairs over the winter including a lot of electrical issues.  The car is becoming a reasonable daily driver but there is a fair bit of repairs left. I still have an intermittent starting issue ( see above) I think a fuel pressure regulator will probably fix it. I still have numerous electrical issues dealing with the radio ( inop ), antenna relay and related circuit and of course the convertible top. 3 days on the bench, the radio is shot. Who needs an antenna without a radio, right? A socket is a temp fix for the top issue. I can live with those issues for the short term. The 3 big issues: 1.) A new exhaust is probably in order based on the fist sized hole in the muffler. ( no biggie yet as I fit right in with my neighbors:)) I'll have some questions about that later. 2.) Right outer axle boot may have a pin hole ... maybe, nothing found. The mess slings like a cracked boot but the substance is more oily than greasy making me thing I have a power steering line leaking onto the boot... maybe. I'll chase that closer when the weather improves. 3.) My biggest problem is the lack of engine power. In general, the car's a dog especially up hill.  It feels like the turbo doesn't start to pull until 3300-3500 rpm indicated. If I hold at least that rpm or romp on it then the car is very responsive, even up hill.  BOV, waste gate, vacuum leak? So far I have not found any vacuum leaks. The car is a stock 8v. Any opinion is appreciated.

Happy almost spring!

Thanks,

Larry

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are the benefits of New Jersey, but it hardly ever gets over 100 degrees there.

It was a beautiful sunny 90 degrees here in AZ today, but we must suffer with temps as high as 126 degrees here in the summer. WE JUST LOVE IT...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't consider it a benefit. I'd rather deal with the heat. You have "dry heat" there where here we have "moist heat". Still not a benefit. I can always work with a fan blowing on me but can't work when your hands are frozen.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with you. I use to live in Jersey, in River Edge. Worked at several Chrysler product dealers back in the 60s. I know what cold is and the joy of working under a car on the lift as the ice and snow thaws.

It's so much better for the cars too. You can look under a 30 year old car and see absolutely NO rust. That is a real benefit.IMG_1340.thumb.JPG.db9c1dccda99a744fe2759c607ac9ba1.JPG

Yes, it does have a loose nut! This is an 89 TC.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, the nut was about to fall off. The car had apparently struck something which required the replacement of the lower control arms and struts. Someone had forgotten to tighten that nut. I did after taking the picture. It went on as far as the nut on the right side.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...