Jump to content

new 1956 Super owner


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, ddiaz396 said:

Nice to hear from you John!! Hope you and your family are ok....difficult times we are living...

 

It has been a tough year. But we'll get through it. Meantime we are okay here so far.  Helps that the toys are driveable.  Hoping you and your family are all well too. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Can somebody elaborate about this?" I found an old file, from old-tank, talking about "the highly volatile available fuel means that added heat below the carb is not needed.  I would just plug the manifold and use the non cut out gasket". Im rebuiding my Carter WCFB and before  putting it back I will like an advise, please .My rebuilding kit have both gaskets... (how do you plug the manifold? )(should I use a heat raise adapter?)Thanks!

carburetor.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396
error (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in SoCal, and have my heat cross over in the intake manifold blocked off with molten aluminum.  It's overkill, but a budy had access to a foundty...  On the exhaust manifold, I deleted the valve and blocked the holes with pins.  I run a Carter WCFB with no problems.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Carburetor is back on the car after deep cleaning, replaced gasket, jets and metering rods cleaned. The car started fine, but after 1 or 2 minutes idling will die....restarted several time(after adjusting timing) and again same problem(will restart fine, run a little and stop...as is running out of gas)when idling sounds good...to late now i will keep trying it tomorrow. Any suggestions? maybe the floats needs adjustment and is low on gas? Choke is not connected yet...for now, is open all the way. Thanks, Daniel

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Having a hard time with the automatic choke (original was gone, got the new Dorman "chinese"kit) I'm thinking about installing a manual choke. Did anybody installed a manual kit in a Carter WCFB? If yes, which kit? will work fine in a warm Fl?. Thanks, Daniel.

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

1956 Buick Super, can I remove the high accumulator from the Dinaflow transmission (without removing the transmission???)? I have a leak and I think is the accumulator seal. Also, I exchanged the transmission from the Super, using the Dinaflow from my spare 1956 Special. Acumulators are different.What about carburetor/transmission linkage? Different?(pedal starter is disconnected, car use a start bottom). Can i replace the Carter WBFC for a newer Edelbrock carburetor? (when I got the car, it has a Edelbrock carburetor on,not buying a new one)Car is or will be a driver. Thanks, Daniel.(notice accumulators pictures...left one have 6 smallholes, right one 8...I dont know wich one is the Super or Special Dinaflow. 

accu.jpeg

accum1.jpeg

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ddiaz396 said:

1956 Buick Super, can I remove the high accumulator from the Dinaflow transmission (without removing the transmission???)? I have a leak and I think is the accumulator seal. Also, I exchanged the transmission from the Super, using the Dinaflow from my spare 1956 Special. Acumulators are different.What about carburetor/transmission linkage? Different?(pedal starter is disconnected, car use a start bottom). Can i replace the Carter WBFC for a newer Edelbrock carburetor? (when I got the car, it has a Edelbrock carburetor on,not buying a new one)Car is or will be a driver. Thanks, Daniel.(notice accumulators pictures...left one have 6 smallholes, right one 8...I dont know wich one is the Super or Special Dinaflow. 

What does your service manual say?

Replace the gasket and use the one that was functioning on the the car.  The original WCFB is best for your car.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I was having problems with the acceleration pump in my carburetor(Carter), so I removed it and rebuilt again.Now the car is runing better. I need to set the timing in the car...when I use the timing light I need to disconnect the vacum advance first? 5 degrees will do? . Also is time to adjust the valves in the 322, any advice how to do it right? but first I will like to do a compression test. Can somebody guide me the proper procedure to do a compression test.Thanks, Daniel.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Disconnect the vacuum advance set with the engine idling as low as possible (300rpm).

Mine likes 7 degrees with the available fuel.

Valves are not adjustable.

Disconnect the coil and crank with the throttle wide open.  Follow directions on YOUR gauge pertaining to hook up.  Record findings.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and rebuilt my Carter carburetor AGAIN!!! This time I did a deep cleaning (remove the four low speed jets, four metering jets ,metering rods, pump relief plug(didn't remove the pump intake check ball since it was moving freely in place) jet housing, ETC! The gasket from the air horn teared a little be, used some Permatex(is this ok??)As the carburetor was rebuilt many times in the past, I don't know if everything is as it should be and I have some questions.1- Is the orientation of the swing vacumeter piston at the piston link important? How do you place the piston and the spring back in the cylinder hole?(put the spring first and then lower the air horn with the piston already attached?)Is there a trick how to place the metering rod in the jets on the same operation?(is done but it was very difficult!). The 4 metering jets(2 primary 2 secondary) have same number?? Thanks.

PS what kind of spak plug will work replacing the original AC Type 44? Autolite 85 will do?

carb.jpg

carburetor.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, ddiaz396 said:

The 4 metering jets(2 primary 2 secondary) have same number??

Nope.  The primary jets are the largest.  I have the jet numbers somewhere, but I cannot read them anymore:(.

I use Autolite 85 in all my nailheads.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everybody, a few days ago I got connected with Michael Bengtsson from Sweden. He has a 1956 Buick Super and he need some molding and tim for his car. I imagine it must be very difficult to find parts for your Buick in Sweden ... can somebody help?

Hello ddias396,

my name is Michael Bengtsson from Sweden.

I have followed your progress with restoring your 56 Buick. I do have a 1956 Buick Super 4 d hardtop and am in to restore it. I do miss some of teh outer trim. On right rear door and the fender i miss the trim, and on left side the door trim.

Somewere I noticed you have cars for spare parts.

I have surched for these parts for several years but no one seems to have any. Is it possible you have spares and can sell me those parts?

 

My alias is IVPorte and I´m a member of the AACA.

Sinceraly

Michael Bengtsson, Sweden

!CEyp0LgEWk~$(KGrHqMOKi8E1KOv3f()BNTCT4jeJQ~~_3.jpg

!CEyp19w!Wk~$(KGrHqMOKp!E0UqF(K,iBNTCT8ilUg~~_3.jpg

!CEyqFQQBGk~$(KGrHqQOKjgE0bnqQIChBNTCUh2YBg~~_3.jpg

SANY0069.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...