ddiaz396

new 1956 Super owner

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Good idea....electric fuel pump location? close to the tank or close to the carburetor?what kind of electric fuel pump do you recommend? Thanks Jon.

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Electric pumps are "pushers" not "pullers". Therefore it needs to be as close to the tank as possible.

 

Lots of folks have done this; maybe someone who has done the modification to a car such as yours will chime in as to which pump they used.

 

Jon.

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No car should routinely need starter fluid.  And if you use it never squirt into the air cleaner...squirt below the choke while cranking.  Guess what will happen if a backfire occurs with the air cleaner full of starting fluid (you will need an underwear cleaner).  Be sure that the accelerator pump is working...it will start even without a choke, but will take some feathering and prolonged warm-up.

A cheap Airtex pump at the tank can be used to fill the carb if it sits for a long time, but is not suitable for continuous use.  Or remove the cover over the rods on that WCFB and pour a few ounces of gas to fill the bowls.

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15 hours ago, ddiaz396 said:

Good idea....electric fuel pump location? close to the tank or close to the carburetor?what kind of electric fuel pump do you recommend? Thanks Jon.

 

Use the the VANE type Rotary electric pump even though it costs a bit more than the cheaper Pulse type.

It will serve a much longer life and will cost less in the long run, and is very affordable when purchased through many online suppliers.

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If the tube to the choke is missing, its probably broken off from the hole in the manifold. I have never gotten those to work right on any of my applications so I just bought an Edelbrock electric choke, flipped the spring internally so it opens the correct way, and have had zero issues since. I think you can buy electric chokes for the WCFB off of Ebay that already have the spring flipped. Others seem to not like them but I have never had an issue with them..

 

Filter 6255 from NAPA will go in the stock air cleaner housing if you want to go paper.

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Hi everybody!!! I need some advise....the vacuum advance tube(capillary tube? connecting distributor and carburetor)  got damaged(cut)....Any advise on how I join the  tube to the stub that is sticking out at the carburetor? welding it? braze? or a piece of rubber or plastic hose will be ok to join the tube again? How important is this? Also, the heat tube for the choke is broken....I read at the forum that can be fabricate with brake line....any advise(line size, nut, how to remove the broken piece from manifold ,without removing manifold from the car ??) I think that all this together is making my car difficult to start (but at the same time the car was working properly before) Hope this is a clogged carburetor or accelerating pump not working . Today I will remove the carburetor and clean it (Carter WFBC)Thanks, Daniel

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Will this work for a 1956 Buick with Carter carburetor WFBC choke heat tube/line?

Carburetor Choke Heater Tube Kit

Choke Heater Tube Kit | 76850 | 3/4 Top
Choke Heater Tube Kit | 76850 | Top ViewChoke Heater Tube Kit | 76850 | 3/4 Top
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76850

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Choke Heater Tube Kit

 
 

Product Description

Dorman's Carburetor Choke Heater Tub Kit is conveniently packaged with everything needed for a complete installation. It effectively repairs or replaces the choke stove on most vehicles with an automatic choke, and/or may be used to repair or replace broken choke heater tubes on most vehicles with hot exhaust activated chokes. Replacement provides a smoother idle upon start-up.

 

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
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The distributor vacuum advance line is 1/8" copper tubing (just like the stuff you get in the oil pressure line replacement kits at the auto parts store). I forget the name of the compression fitting that goes into the carb and vacuum advance, but you can buy them at NAPA, Weatherhead P/N 6100x2 for 1/8". They look like this:

post-75106-143139330935_thumb.jpg

 

You could splice it with 1/8" ID vacuum tubing if you want.

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Finally Carter carburetot is rebuilt, back in the car and car is running fine(could't find a youtube video about how to rebuild it, but I put it back together the way I found it....I dont know if this was correct in the other time...jets, missing gasket, needles position,etc). I have a question....how do I know if the advance distribuitor is working propely? is a way how to test it, without to remove it from the car? About 6 or 7 months I purchased one refurbished and installed it in the distribuitor, but my line got damaged (thanks Beemon for the tip!!)...don't know if I have a vacuum leak.  About the body restoration, I started to work with the doors jambs....sanding and priming them. Next week will try to put the doors back.Thanks for the help in advance, Daniel.

fender.jpg

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Sorry my "spelling corrector" not working....

 

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10 hours ago, ddiaz396 said:

Finally Carter carburetot is rebuilt, back in the car and car is running fine(could't find a youtube video about how to rebuild it, but I put it back together the way I found it....I dont know if this was correct in the other time...jets, missing gasket, needles position,etc). I have a question....how do I know if the advance distribuitor is working propely? is a way how to test it, without to remove it from the car? About 6 or 7 months I purchased one refurbished and installed it in the distribuitor, but my line got damaged (thanks Beemon for the tip!!)...don't know if I have a vacuum leak.  About the body restoration, I started to work with the doors jambs....sanding and priming them. Next week will try to put the doors back.Thanks for the help in advance, Daniel.

 

 

Daniel,  Do you have a vacuum gauge for testing the engines vacuum system?

 

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You can use a mity vac to pull a vacuum on the advance unit to see if it physically moves.  This is also a good way to see if it holds vacuum, or if it bleeds off quickly.

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