Vertical play in distributor shaft

[rodneybeauchamp]

Have taken out distributor ( so I can find the heater core) and noticed there is a large amount of up and down play (45 thou) between the gear and the distributor body.   Is it a good idea to shim this space so the shaft does not rise up as it turns?  Should be a straight forward job to do, is it advisable? Can't find any specification to guide me on the maximum clearance

 

 

 

 

[Seafoam65]

                  The play in your distributor is normal.  If you have no free play it can damage the oil pump and cam gears.

No shimming is needed. 

[Guest Jilla 66 rivi GS]

What Seafoam said! GOTTA have a little wiggle room!

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Thanks to you both, can sleep easy now. Just cleaning it up and making sure weights move easily. New set of points, cap and rotor and condenser will complete it. Anything else I should service or check?

[Guest Jilla 66 rivi GS]

That does it for the ignition side, with the exception of plugs,  wires, & distributor vacuum advance. Your question of; Is there any thing else I should check goes by an individual basis.  Some cars have sat for many years, others have been maintained religiously. Is it coming from winter storage?  Fresh from a barn? New project? I often start with fresh fluids, filters, and tune ups every year. Plugs and wires every other year,  once again...depending on application. Best oil for old cars in my opinion is Valvoline vr1 racing oil 10w30 full synthetic. It is designed for  flat tappet engines (old design) and it also has the highest level of zddp that old cars like to have! I'm a big fan of MMO (marvel mystery oil) as well. I use it in the specified quantities in my old and new cars in both the oil and gas, always with great  results. As with everything,  you get what you pay for. The drivetrain lubricants are of the most importance. 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Have started to clean and lubricate the mechanical advance and replace the points and condenser. Found the vacuum advance rod was rusty and a but sluggish, not as responsive as I would have thought, so a new one on the way.

 

Interesting discussion by the Chev Corvette guys on the topic of vacuum advance units, certainly worth a look to make sure the replacement unit provides the correct amount of advance at the correct vacuum setting. 

 

So so just don't rely on the counter man ( or woman) to provide the right part, numbers on the unit will tell you. And my Buick 63 shop manual provides the specs you need and the correct OEM number.

[Guest Jilla 66 rivi GS]

Timing specs are different for each engine Chevy, Buick, Olds  but you are absolutely correct. Don't  rely on anyone for the correct parts. I cannot tell you how many times, I've walked out of my local autoparts store with the wrong stuff! Any time I deal with the timing, I usually adjust for total timing and let the initial fall wherever it falls. When you replace parts in a distributor; advance weights, vac advance, etc.. it changes things. Find in your shop manual the total timing specs. I recall initial was 2 1/2, but I've  heard of people bumping it up to 6-8. If you're  distributor is not original, forget the initial, all factory info went right out of the window. Even if it is original, I would still tune it to total timing. If you don't  know where your timing is maxing out ( somewhere around 30ish below 3k rpm). Most 60s 70s American cars I've seen, have all had around 30-35 degrees total timing. I think the Rivs like the timing all in before 2,800 rpms, possibly sooner. I'm  sure your manual has all the exact specs. One important thing to always listen for is the advance, when you plug the hose back in after adjusting timing. If you don't notice any difference in rpms, chances  are the advance has a ruptured diaphragm. Distributor weights effect how soon the distributor advances or at what rpm total timing is reached. Hopefully  she's  not too far out of whack. You wouldn't  believe how much of a difference the little adjustments make!!

[XframeFX]

I'm bringing this one back to add an O-Ring question.

 

The original is rock hard and will break if I remove to match it with a replacement. However, can't seem to find one with an OD of 1 3/8"

I measured the O-Ring in-place and have the following dimensions:

O-Ring	Inches
OD:	1.375''
2X Groove Depth:	0.250''
Groove Width:	0.150''
ID:	1.125''

 

Is there any reference to find a new O-Ring for the Distributor?

[Riviera63]

9 hours ago, XframeFX said:

I'm bringing this one back to add an O-Ring question.

 

The original is rock hard and will break if I remove to match it with a replacement. However, can't seem to find one with an OD of 1 3/8"

I measured the O-Ring in-place and have the following dimensions:

O-Ring	Inches
OD:	1.375''
2X Groove Depth:	0.250''
Groove Width:	0.150''
ID:	1.125''

 

Is there any reference to find a new O-Ring for the Distributor?

I would contact Tom Telesco. He just rebuilt and recurved a distributor for me. I am sure he knows where he can get these items. 

 

Bill

Edited March 9, 2023 by Riviera63 (see edit history)

[gungeey]

[XframeFX]

OMG, even with a P/N in-hand, a simple O-Ring is hard to find!

 

Same P/N "72216" for Mahle and Victor-Reinz. A valid P/N but zero in Canada. However, crosses to Felpro #421. Again, zero stock except for a NAPA store in Montreal with $15 store-to-store transfer. Had a friend p/u a few over there and will mail to me. Unbelievable!

[Matt56]

Be thankful to not be sourcing Buick parts in Australia   😀

 

And not sure if you checked but of course Rockauto is worth a shot.

 

[RivNut]

I just put 3 in my cart at my local NAPA.  $4.77 US w/ tax.

 

Order Submitted

O-RING Part #: FPG 421 Qty: 3 $4.77 $1.59 /each

 

 

Their site confirms that these are correct for a Buick 401/425

Edited March 21, 2023 by RivNut (see edit history)

[XframeFX]

1 hour ago, Matt56 said:

Be thankful to not be sourcing Buick parts in Australia

Don't get-me-going. Canada like Australia is "International" despite the land border.

 

Most of Canada's population straddles this border and many have contact points just south of same border. Edmonton is at a logistical disadvantage. 450 miles straight south to Montana and nothing for you when you get there.

Air travel 🆖 as well unless your loyalty program provides a N/C checked bag. Then for Cash & Carry, there's local State Tax.

 

As for Parts, "Meets or Exceeds OEM Specifications" is a bogus statement. No mention of Application and only discovering country of origin after purchase. I've noticed many parts are becoming one-size-fits-all. I suppose better that discontinuing altogether.

[XframeFX]

Getting the picture auto parts warehouses in Canada thinking a land border not far away, let the US warehouses stock "Old Car Parts"

 

BTW, Nordstroms, Bed Bath Beyond and The Rack pulling out of Canada.

[Matt56]

19 minutes ago, XframeFX said:

Don't get-me-going. Canada like Australia is "International" despite the land border.

 

Most of Canada's population straddles this border and many have contact points just south of same border. Edmonton is at a logistical disadvantage. 450 miles straight south to Montana and nothing for you when you get there.

Air travel 🆖 as well unless your loyalty program provides a N/C checked bag. Then for Cash & Carry, there's local State Tax.

 

As for Parts, "Meets or Exceeds OEM Specifications" is a bogus statement. No mention of Application and only discovering country of origin after purchase. I've noticed many parts are becoming one-size-fits-all. I suppose better that discontinuing altogether.

Oh absolutely.  It is almost impossible to buy a 3/8 washer here .... 'this will be fine' - the 10mm one.