Low compression on 26 sedan

[MikeC5]

Did you check valve clearances?  If either valve has too little clearance and isn't closing fully it can result in a low compression reading.  Do you know how to check them? 

[Mpgp1999]

update on engine problems:

I have recently taken my car to a mechanic Tators Garage in new york and had the brakes properly adjusted ( they work beautifully now ) but I also had the valves adjusted they were not ajusted properly.

while driving there on level ground I could hold 40-43 mph though I have low compression in some valves but on the way back I couldent get to 35 down hill. I need to shift to first to go up any hill. I have always run my car with plain water ( when temptures are above freezing) but my mechanic insisted on puting radatior fluid in it. My motometer does not work at all so I noticed steam coming from the top of the radaitor. Thinking all the fluid leaked out I pulled over to check and the radiator was nearly full and no pressure. I resume driving home when I get home I use a electronic thermometer to check the tempature the fluid is 226 and the block is 232. The engine is overheating and I have no power. 

 

Also when I come to a stop sign right before and right after there is a stream of fluid on the ground.

[22touring]

Mpgp1999, your car is exhibiting the classic signs of retarded timing. 

Old timer mechanics used to set DB timing by advancing the rotor in very small amounts until the engine began to run worse with the advance lever all the way up.  At that point, retard the rotor to the previous setting.  Again, advance it in very small increments, like 1/8" or 1/16".

Edited November 7, 2016 by 22touring (see edit history)

[cahartley]

^ That's exactly how I did mine. 

Turn the cam in small increments until the engine starts running stupid when the advance lever is fully advanced assuming it doesn't cause the engine to want to kick back upon starting when fully retarded.

I had a hard time with mine as the distributor gear was one tooth off and I had to start from square one again.

[Spinneyhill]

It is a bad idea to run plain water in the radiator. You should at least have some anti-corrosive treatment in there. Remember there are different metals in close proximity and contact in the engine and one will corrode as a result in galvanic corrosion. And you should leave the anti-corrosive treatment in there over winter. The water (and the air that will replace it when you drain the system) contains oxygen, the agent of corrosion.

 

Basically, put in 50-50 water and ethylene glycol anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitors (not a long-life anti-freeze) and change it at two to three yearly intervals. The antifreeze starts to break down after about that long.

 

 

[Mpgp1999]

49 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

It is a bad idea to run plain water in the radiator. You should at least have some anti-corrosive treatment in there. Remember there are different metals in close proximity and contact in the engine and one will corrode as a result in galvanic corrosion. And you should leave the anti-corrosive treatment in there over winter. The water (and the air that will replace it when you drain the system) contains oxygen, the agent of corrosion.

 

Basically, put in 50-50 water and ethylene glycol anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitors (not a long-life anti-freeze) and change it at two to three yearly intervals. The antifreeze starts to break down after about that long.

 

 

I don't have to worry about changing the fluid it will all leak out in a few months 

during the winter I drive it with at least 50-50 

the the water is usually clear when drained out

[Mpgp1999]

How do I advance the ignition the lever is all the way advanced 

how to adjust on distributor 

[GaryP65]

14 hours ago, 22touring said:

Mpgp1999, your car is exhibiting the classic signs of retarded timing. 

Old timer mechanics used to set DB timing by advancing the rotor in very small amounts until the engine began to run worse with the advance lever all the way up.  At that point, retard the rotor to the previous setting.  Again, advance it in very small increments, like 1/8" or 1/16".

I tried this when I noticed I had almost zero power going to a small incline. I pulled over, shut her off, popped off  the distributor cap, loosen the screw to advance the cam, put it all back together and.......

SOB WOULDN'T START! 

 

FYI. Nothing to do with the above. SG crapped out! can't make this up.

Having fun thou

[R.White]

10 minutes ago, Mpgp1999 said:

How do I advance the ignition the lever is all the way advanced 

how to adjust on distributor 

Please forgive me for stating the obvious but you really need to buy a workshop manual.  They are quite cheap and have all the information you need.

[GaryP65]

Mathew, he's so right. between the manual and the experts here, I would have never gotten as far as I have.

If it wasn't for this, I would have never gotten my barn find running AND driving.

 

Edited November 7, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history)

[Mpgp1999]

I have the crank and hope manual

amd dykes automobile 

[GaryP65]

We know. last time you mentioned it, someone gave you the link to faxons. trust me, get it

 

[Spinneyhill]

No shop manual for '26 was there? But there was an Instruction Book that contained the information.

 

Perhaps like this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1909-1926-1925-1924-1923-Dodge-Book-of-Information-Manual-Instruction-Book-OEM-/140815158554?hash=item20c93ccd1a:g:uHQAAOSwQYZWu-VT&vxp=mtr

[GaryP65]

Www.faxonautoliterature.com

 

1914-1927 Dodge Bros. & Graham Bros. Repair Shop Manual Reprint

 

 

$28.00

[22touring]

To adjust the timing (and I assume your '26 is the same as my late '22), remove the distributor cap and rotor, loosen the big screw under the rotor and turn the shaft forward or backward.  Then tighten the big screw back up.  It helps to use a short screwdriver that can fit under the exhaust manifold.  To advance the timing, turn the shaft in the direction of its rotation.

[cahartley]

This is from the Dodge Brothers Bible (manual).

The tall, slotted, nut underneath the rotor is what holds the points cam in place.

Loosen that nut, turn the cam lobe clockwise a bit and tighten.......repeat as necessary.

Make this adjustment with the advance lever on the steering column in full retarded position.

Edited November 8, 2016 by cahartley (see edit history)

[Mpgp1999]

What's the difference between the instruction manual and the owners manual 

[Mpgp1999]

On 6 Nov 2016 at 10:05 PM, Mpgp1999 said:

update on engine problems:

I have recently taken my car to a mechanic Tators Garage in new york and had the brakes properly adjusted ( they work beautifully now ) but I also had the valves adjusted they were not ajusted properly.

while driving there on level ground I could hold 40-43 mph though I have low compression in some valves but on the way back I couldent get to 35 down hill. I need to shift to first to go up any hill. I have always run my car with plain water ( when temptures are above freezing) but my mechanic insisted on puting radatior fluid in it. My motometer does not work at all so I noticed steam coming from the top of the radaitor. Thinking all the fluid leaked out I pulled over to check and the radiator was nearly full and no pressure. I resume driving home when I get home I use a electronic thermometer to check the tempature the fluid is 226 and the block is 232. The engine is overheating and I have no power. 

 

Also when I come to a stop sign right before and right after there is a stream of fluid on the ground.

The correct temperature is 300 degrees and the radiator fluid is coming out of the overflow pipe. As the fluid expands it boils and comes out.  The outside temperature is at most 50 degrees. Even the car finally gets up to speed I hear popping sounds. 

 

The valves were at .26 nowhere near the correct adjustment I think the ignition was timed to that valve timing and now it's out of adjustment. After I take off the distributor cap what do I do.

 

 

manuel is in the mail.

[Grimy]

".26" valve clearance is slightly more than 1/4-inch,  Did you mean .026 (26 thousandths)? 

 

Suggest you wait for the manual, study it, adjust the valves, plugs, points, and re-time.  Someone before you thoroughly buggered the adjustments, and I'm very disappointed that your "mechanic" (and I use the term very loosely) did not identify these issues.  It would have been helpful for him to have the manual, but even .026 is so far beyond the pale of normal for Anything that I question his qualifications. 

[R.White]

I think you must have a metric feeler set.  0.26mm = 0.010".  Ten one thousandths of an inch would be O.K.

[Mpgp1999]

Valves were .026 very far off now are correct 

I know that he has the correct book.

I assume the ignition was timed to the valves and that's why it's so off.

[cahartley]

On 11/11/2016 at 10:32 PM, Mpgp1999 said:

What's the difference between the instruction manual and the owners manual 

 

I have no idea.......just trying to point you in the right direction.

[R.White]

20 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

Valves were .026 very far off now are correct 

I know that he has the correct book.

I assume the ignition was timed to the valves and that's why it's so off.

 

I can tell you for nothing that the engine wouldn't have run with 0.26" or 1/4" clearance. Not a chance.  

[30dodge35]

Matt, sent you a pm, you get it?

[Mpgp1999]

Got the engine running it backfired and ajusted until it ran smoothly. Then had the engine idle for 20 min ans the engine was a max of 220 degerees by the exhaust manifold and 180 by the caurberattor.

Then under almost no load the engine started to die and get quiet and then stopped dead in its tracks. I heard a terrible noise. The timing chain came loose and was stuck in the timing gear (the terrible noise) the starter is freely spinning. When using the crank the flywheel moves but the fan does not. It also takes little effort to turn over when using the crank.