Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Another thought: is there any electrostatic charge built up in the media during spraying that may cause them to bridge in the machine? I am thinking of + and - charges on opposite ends of the particles and the repulsion between + charges and attraction between - charges and whether that could contribute to bridging?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the basic problem is the Clogmaster 2000 was designed to clog.  I know that when I first tried a syphon gun (Crapmaster 150) in a cabinet it was terrible, it could hardly pick up any media.  I later got a nice syphon gun from TP Tools and the difference was incredible... mind you the rest of the system was unchanged.  The only problem I had with it was the nozzles wore out super fast.  TP Tools sold carbide nozzles for just under $450,000 (which I thought was expensive) but I've using the same nozzle for over 2 years.   Out of curiosity (boredom more likely) I took the two guns apart and compared them.  While the TP Tools gun had larger diameter passage ways, the biggest difference was were the passageway changed directions it was a nice radius whereas the Crapmaster 150 would have a 90 turn.   The Clogmaster 2000 probably has twice the number of fittings that would need the same attention to detail in the design that likely didn't happen.  I have an similar model of the Clogmaster and I took it apart (OK, I'll admit, it clogged one time too many and I beat it to pieces with a baseball bat) and it looked to me that the bottom 'T' fitting was probably where the main problem was.  It seemed that one might be able to replace all the various fittings with larger diameter and it would work better.   By this time, however, I had the TP Tool syphon gun and I just stuck the feed hose in a bucket and blasted away outside. 

 

Chris: What paint are you using on the chassis parts?  I really like the sheen.

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work, love watching this sort of process! Thats a terrific bearing puller you have, and some very  imaginative uses of the local flora. Maybe I missed it, but have you had the relined rear brake shoes radiused to suit the drums? Can be very helpful to getting good contact over the whole shoe, without high spots.

jp 26 Rover 9

Link to post
Share on other sites

My Clogmaster is clogging at the bottom T.  The gun I have works great.  I don't have many more huge parts, so I'll probably just live with it for now.

 

I am using Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin Finish from a spray can.  It seems to be the closest to what the factory did, and it looks good and should be durable.  I considered powder coating, but I am more concerned with lowering my expenses and doing as much of the car as I can myself.

 

Thanks jp928.  I've been trying to cheap out, as my last restoration, I farmed out more of it, and it cost me a fortune.  Lots of rip-off artists out there, so I figure I will attempt to do almost everything myself.  As far as the rear brake shoes, I had them relined by White Post Restorations, but I'm not sure if they were radiused.  I've had them do shoes on my other cars and never had a problem, so I'm not concerned with it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said:

TP Tools sold carbide nozzles for just under $450,000 (which I thought was expensive) but I've using the same nozzle for over 2 years.

 

LoL! That would be a bit pricey. They seem to be $49 at the moment for a nozzle set?

http://www.tptools.com/Skat-Blast-Carbide-Nozzle-Pack,287.html

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

 

LoL! That would be a bit pricey. They seem to be $49 at the moment for a nozzle set?

http://www.tptools.com/Skat-Blast-Carbide-Nozzle-Pack,287.html

Yep, that's the set, though I paid the full price, no special when I ordered mine. :) It seemed like the end of the world when I purchased them mainly because the plain steel nozzles didn't last more than a couple of hours.  At the time I had no idea there was that big a difference. They mentioned one carbide was 30x longer than a ceramic but I was using the plain steel ones at the time.  I didn't realize that the ceramic was way better than plain steel and thus the carbide was nearly infinitely better than the plain steel.  :)

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress to report, time for a small update.  I finished the front chassis extension and the two ancillary bumper brackets on the sides.  I also added the horn bracket and a repro horn (Photo 1).  The original horn is an unusable wreck.  I determined that the original flex fuel line going to the carbs was in good enough condition to be saved.  No clogs, cracks, or anything.  I polished up the brass and steel fittings and it looks almost new (Photos 2 & 3).  It's now back on the car.   I refurbished the original steering U-joint and put it on the steering shaft (Photo 4).  Last, I set up the original cleaned-up battery wire with a repro wiring harness and the associated refurbished clips and hardware (Photo 5).  I have to bend the hanger tangs on the chassis back into place a little, then this assembly is ready for installation on the chassis.

 

Still have more details to go, such as the front and rear wiring harness, the other battery wires and clamps, the rest of the tools I have left, the brake pipe from the master cylinder, then I think I can put in the rear floorboards and rear driveshaft tunnel.  Not too much left to go on the rolling chassis.  After these last pieces, I'll be starting on the engine.  Next steps will be a distributor rebuild, then I'm going to try to tackle the SU carbs.  I have no experience with carbs, so it will be interesting.  Will be getting a rebuild kit and a book for starters.

100_4679.JPG

100_4681.JPG

100_4682.JPG

100_4683.JPG

100_4684.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

SU carbs are simple and easy to overhaul, with the right parts. Lots of docs on how/what/when. The original Smiths on my Rover was very unreliable, so I have resorted to an SU - HS2 (1-1/4") off a Mini - $20. $100 kit from Burlens (UK) - new spindle, butterfly, jet, needle&seat (rubber tipped type, much more reliable), bowl gasket, and I added new brass screws. Also comes with new bushes for the spindle if the body is badly worn - mine wasnt. Car now runs well, and answers throttle very smoothly. I set the jet height per the rebuild notes at the default, and she fired up first try.

Check your needles for wear, you may need new ones - the code is stamped on the shank. If the floats are brass, check for leaks. Critical part of rebuild is centreing the jet. You will need light oil for the dampers, as in sewing machine - engine oil is far too heavy. I verified my mixture using a wide band O2 sensor, jsut to be sure.

Keep up the good work.

jp 26 Rover 9

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Been a while since my last update, but have made more slow progress.  I'm pretty much finished with the complete chassis at this point (the parts I can do without the engine and trans installed).  I installed the chassis and rear wiring harness, clips, and fasteners.  Here are the rear connectors freshly installed (Photo 1). 

 

For some reason, I'm limited to 9.77MB of photos this time, which is strange, so I can only do 3 photos. (???!)

 

I was also going to go to the Carlisle import nationals today, but the monsoon made me just go into work instead.

 

I finished the brake and fuel pipes at the front.  I restored the drive shaft.  Got new U-joints and was able to clean everything else up, including getting the sliding front pinion properly lubed and working.  It's currently finished and at a shop getting balanced.  Here it is about 1/2 way finished (Photo 2).  I blasted and painted the rear drive shaft tunnel, then got the rear floorboards out and drilled the fastener holes and the seat mounting holes.  I discovered 1 welded-on nut for the floorboards is missing, so not sure what I'll do about that.  I have the nut, but welding it on with the chassis finished and no lift may be a bridge too far.  The wood still needs to be treated, I'm going to try some wood preservative of some type, and then they will need to be painted black.  They are loosely installed in the car (Photo 3) as it's a good place for them, but can't screw them down until the front trans tunnel is in, and can't do that until the trans is in, and don't want to do that until the engine is in, so it will be a while.

 

I still have to find one battery clip and I have to finish restoring the battery cables and fasteners, which appear to just need a good cleaning.  I have a few more tools I want to restore as well, but that should be quite easy, just blast and paint.  Finding the time to do these things is another story.

 

So, I will start shopping for a transmission shop next week, then start on the rest of the engine components, starting with the distributor, then the carbs, then the intake manifold, then the air cleaners, and then a few misc brackets, tubes, and whatnot, and everything for the engine should be done, except the engine block and guts itself.  After that, I'm going to try an MG engine guy in Richmond and I'm going to try to have all of this finished by the end of 2018.  I hope to complete the body in 2019, then have the whole car finished in 2020.  Press on...

100_4685.JPG

100_4696.JPG

100_4706.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Now that the chassis is complete, it's time to move on to the engine and transmission.  I started by dragging out the transmission (photo 1).  It was covered in about 1" of oil mixed with sand.  After cleaning up the top of the trans, I found "MI6" written on it (photo 2).  Must have been James Bond's MGA.  As per my last posting, I'm limited to 9.77mb of photos for some reason, so I can only post 2.  I must have hit some type of limit, as I know before I could post more, and other folks have been able to post more.

 

I'm not sure if I'll try to mess with the trans internals myself or not, but I'll probably farm it out and have a pro look it over, as I've only done minimal trans work.  I was able to clean off most of the gunk and it looks pretty good now, but will require another round of cleaning to be acceptable.

 

I then moved on to the distributor.  Took it all apart, but at the end, I discovered that the weights and springs, although free and loose, would not move at all.  It completely defied the laws of physics as there appeared to be nothing keeping them from being able to move in their full range of motion.  I also discovered that the top cam portion of the main shaft has seized to the shaft and will not come off.  I tried penetrating fluid, then lots of heat, but nothing worked.  I ended up bending the base plate trying to get the thing off, so it's ruined.  I don't feel too bad, as it was ruined anyway.  No way to get the weights off or get them moving.  I bought a used '61 distributor from ebay and I will try to put the guts of that one into my original case to try to keep it as original as possible.  I have a strange feeling that the one I bought will end up doing the same thing.  I also feel that I'm missing something about how these things work.  You don't know what you don't know.

 

I ordered some wood sealant fore the floorboards.  This is the Steve Smith stuff as recommended on Barney's MGA Guru site.  Actually talked to THE Steve Smith, so I think I'll be getting some great wood sealant that should protect from moisture and rot for quite a long time.  I also finished restoring the seat mounting fasteners, so those will be ready to go in when the time comes.

 

I still have the jack handles and engine crank handle to restore, so I've been doing that one the side.  I continue to try to find original tools online when I can, as to try to rebuild a complete tool set.  Unfortunately, all these tools seem to be in the UK, which means the shipping costs are making this cost-prohibitive.  Trying to build my own set, not pay $300-$500 to buy a set from someone that's already put a set together, but that may be the smarter financial choice after considering foreign shipping costs.

 

-Chris

100_4722.JPG

100_4727.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On your photo of the steering U joint it almost looks like you bead blasted it. Not that good an idea if you did as grit gets in and mixes with the grease . Accelerated wear will be the result. Those joints last a long time if kept greased, however grit will definitely shorten life. Otherwise things are looking great.

 

Greg in Canada

Link to post
Share on other sites

Greg, thanks for the concern.  I did not blast it.  It was on the car when I bought it.  Not grease fittings, though, not sure if it is original.

 

 I inspected it and it seemed tight, but had good freedom of movement, so I wire-wheeled it, then dremelled the interior portions to clean it all up.  I gave it multiple cleanings, then I primed and painted it steel silver.  Put on new snap rings, too.  Not quite factory perfect, but wanted to keep it as original as possible and protect the metal.  Turned out pretty good cosmetically.  I figure since it's a steering joint and I won't be driving the wheels off of it, it should be okay.

 

-Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I have very little time at the moment, but I've been working on the distributor and took it apart quite easily, but couldn't get off the cam assembly from the top of the main shaft.  Tried heating, prying, Liquid Wrench, but nothing worked and I ended up damaging the shaft in the process, so I purchased another partial distributor on ebay to use for parts.  Like anything, I found out what I did wrong after I ruined it, so lesson learned.  I've been piecing it back together and so far so good (Photo 1).  Just got new points and waiting on a condenser.

 

Polished up the firing order tag.  Nice brass piece, cleaned up well (Photos 2 & 3).  Looks better than photo 3 after a quick polish with the dremel tool.

 

Still working on the tools that came with the car, so only have to paint the engine crank, then restore the tire pump.  The jack handle assemblies have been restored.  Found a set of Dunlop tire irons in the UK, so I'm slowly piecing together the missing tools.  

 

I picked up some special wood sealant/primer from a specialist, so if I can find the time, I'll be sealing the floorboards with this stuff, then painting them, then putting in the seat mounting fasteners that attach to the bottom of the floorboards.  

 

Next is doing a final cleanup of the transmission, which means undoing all the bolts one at a time and cleaning around the holes.  Right now, all the gunk is congregated around the bolt areas, so they will need some additional cleaning help.  I dropped off the shifter at Paul's Chrome in Evans City, PA for replating.  Shouldn't be too much longer before I can take it to the transmission shop.  After that, I'll start the carbs and intake, then I should have most of the ancillary engine parts finished and it will be ready to send to the engine rebuilder.  The goal is to have the engine and trans restored and in the car by the end of the year.  Not sure if I will make it with having almost no time and running in to many small, difficult challenges, since I've never messed with a distributor or carb before.

 

 

100_4757.JPG

100_4761.JPG

100_4764.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Try checking out this site for how the mechanical advance works...

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=distributor+centrifugal+advance&safe=active&rlz=1C1GGGE_enAU693AU693&biw=1600&bih=769&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=6efh4YGN9Yx9BM%3A%2C1soo29qmQFdl4M%2C_&usg=__AHn1NifFomDLLpi-E3T5RLGiY9o%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjKl6KYitDbAhXBy7wKHcV7CjEQ9QEIODAA#imgrc=6efh4YGN9Yx9BM:

This part rotates the make/break cam  forwards, while the vacuum advance moves the whole plate that the points are mounted on. Some cars also run a vacuum retard , as in my Porsche 928.

You did find the screw under the rotor button that retains the advance stuff on the main shaft?

I once had a mini that had been little used for a while and one day would not go much faster than walking pace - the mechanical advance plate was frozen onto the main shaft. If you know the Lucas part no for the car you can lookup the advance curve it should produce. Most such distributors do a simple straight line advance which is finished by ~3500rpm, maybe up to 30-35Deg.  

jp 26 Rover 9

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, I'm on the right track, now.  Have all the parts and most of it reassembled, just need the condenser before I shore it up.  On to the carburetors next.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Last time I worked on a twin carb car (Rover 2000TC, 2 x 2" SU HD8), part of the final set up involved setting the clearance of the connection from the rear carb (directly connected to the throttle linkage) and the front carb - some is needed to ensure the front one returned to its idle stop. The specified clearance was given as being able to just run a roll your own cigarette paper through the gap. 

jp 26 Rover 9

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Hursst,

 

I've just seen all your restoration.  Very good job and very interesting picture for me. 

It is funny because we are doing almost the same, but far away from you as I live in Belgium.

I'm a lillte bit further than you.

The engine is on the chassis, but still need to clean and install carburettors and distributor.

I also will need a new exhaust manifold as mine is cracked, and the fuel tank is to be replaced as it is rusted and leaking.

Here is a picture of the engine fitting on the frame.

engine-on-chassisRH.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice project, looks great!  I ended up with a broken exhaust manifold and rusty gas tank as well.  I bought used replacements, but holding on to the broken pieces in case there's any chance they can be repaired in the future.  Hate to waste any part that may be of use somehow.  I should be where you are in about 6 months, with any luck.  Thanks for the post!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got a good 1/2 day straight working today.  Trying to do 1 hour a day on weekdays, then as much as possible on weekends, if I'm in town.

 

Finished restoring the tools that came with the car and the few tools I bought since then (Photo 1).  Will be slowly finding the rest of the tools over time.  Good side project while working on the main parts of the car.

 

Bought some high-tech wood sealer from a specialist in California.  Works as a wood sealer and primer and was recommended on the MGA blogs I read.  Looks great and should perform as I would expect.  Will need at least 2 days to dry and cure, then I can paint it the correct black and install the seat mounting hardware (Photo 2).

 

Started and completely the intake manifold.  It's really simple, just some aluminum piping, really.  Stripped it of the few drops of original paint that were left, cleaned all the grime off it, primed it and painted it as original.  Also zinc plated the nuts and bolts to the same.  Just need some new gaskets.

 

Also broke out the carburetor assembly.  Started at the top with the air cleaner lids.  Here's one stripped to bare metal and the other as it came with the car (Photo 3).  Should have these primed and painted tomorrow.

 

Otherwise, I'm currently shopping for a transmission shop and engine rebuilder.  A buddy of mine has some good local contacts, so should be visiting those guys as early as next week.  Hope to have the engine and trans complete and in the car by Christmas or earlier, so I can start on the body for 2019.  I think I'm on a 5-year track; 2 years in so far.  Taking a long time because it's hard to find time to work on it, and I want to get it as accurate as possible, with great attention to detail, which takes lots of extra time.

 

 

 

 

100_4773.JPG

100_4774.JPG

100_4780.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I understand why your fuel tank looks so pretty.

I'll buy a new one as it is not so expensive, the same for the exhaust and keep the old ones as you say.

I hope to start the body for after the summer, hoping to have some full days during this holidays to work on it.

 

Next hard step for me is to choose the color.  Original one is old English white but I don't like it.

My prefered one is the verde acqua from the fiat 500, not an original one but between ash green and island green.

 

Have you already decided which one will you make?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Angelo, I'm a stickler for originality, so I'm going with the original color, which of course, is Old English White, just like yours.  Black interior with white piping, gray top.  I must say, I've always thought the Dove gray is one of the best colors.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wanted to keep it original in the beginning of the restoration, but it is not possible.  Serial number was missing on the engine

It was blocked and when I opened it I was surprised by the diameter of the bore. 

It was larger than all the oversizes, it was one MGB engine!

I could only find 1600cc MGA engine on exchange basis, so I kept the MGB engine.

At this time I realized that the number 1800 on the block was the CC on the engine, it should have been 1600.

So I changed mind, if there is no original motor, I could go for non orignal color?

I saw one yellow with grey interior that I liked very much, but it is again MGB color.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Still able to stick to my edict of doing at least an hour each day (when I'm home).

 

I finished the intake manifold yesterday (Photo 1).  Also includes a bracket and brass firing order guide tag.  Just need the gaskets on each side.

 

Finished painting the air cleaner assembly tops (Photo 2).  Tough to get these painted well, as there is always dust and dirt around.  May have to touch these up a little if there are any irregularities in them after they dry.  Should be starting the lower assemblies soon, before I start on the carbs.

 

Also got my condenser in from Moss, so finished up the distributor (Photo 3).  Tried to reuse as much as possible, but replaced the points, condenser, plug wires, and coil wires.  Was able to clean and reuse all the other parts (with help from a junker distributor I bought on ebay to replace the main shaft.  Very happy with the results on all these pieces, was able to restore most of the engine parts rather than replace.  Should make for a much more authentic restoration.

 

-Chris

100_4781.JPG

100_4783.JPG

100_4785.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Took a day off work and spent some more time with the MGA.  Finished the preliminary cleaning of he transmission, finished painting the main floorboards (2 days ago), and started work on my carburetors.  I got a copy of the SU carb manual from the MGA club in the UK a few years ago, and now putting it to good use.  I exploded one of the carbs and it wasn't too bad with help from the manual (Photos 1 & 2, before and after).  I'll need to do a lot of inspection of the various parts as they've been sitting for such a long time.  Already discovered that the idle setting lever has worn into the main throttle shaft, creating excessive play.  I'll have to replace the main throttle shaft and lever pin.  I may be able to keep the lever, but an screw has broken off in it, so I'll have to drill that out.

100_4788.JPG

100_4808.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I wasn't happy with my progress.  I meet a lot of guys and I ask "How long did this restoration take you?"  A lot of them say "Oh, a while, about 18 months or so."  This is incredibly fast, my last resto took 9 years and I'm already 2 years into this one.  I guess these folks are either retired or a pro shop is doing the whole thing.  I don't want this one to be another 9 years, so if I can do at least an hour each day during the week, I think I can speed up progress a little.

 

Thanks, I still love seeing the results of your resto; beyond professional.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are the carbs SU2 or SU4?  I'm fairly certain I have an extra set of both so if you needs some parts, let me know. 

 

An hour a day is a great idea.  I think it is a great way to keep things moving along.   I've found that I actually tend to get more done during the week than on the weekends.  There are 5 of those "weekdays" so a couple hours on each of them adds up pretty quick.  On the weekends I've got yard work, house work, family stuff, etc so they zip by pretty quick.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Carbs are SU4.  I should be okay with getting some new carb parts from Moss, but I'll keep your in mind in case mine are somehow beyond repair.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The trans is in the shop.  I should have it back around August, which is about when I should be able to ship the engine out for assessment and hopefully rebuild.  In the meantime, I've still been working hard on all the small ancillary pieces to the engine, especially the carbs.  I keep finding worn out parts on the carbs, so I keep ordering them from Moss.  I've found that some of the carb parts from Moss require some "finishing," either major or minor, and are not ready to just go right in.  Better than nothing, I guess, but frustrating.  I'm down to the last few bits on the engine, other than the carbs.  I'm now scrounging for small engine related parts in the pile to pull out and restore, so almost there.  

 

I finished one of the air filter assemblies (Photo 1).  The paint job on the other one is not satisfactory, so I need to do some more work on it.  Was able to reuse most of the original parts, with the exception of the filters themselves.  

 

I bought a repro coil from Moss (Photo 2).  It's quite different than the original (original on the right), but it will do for now.  I bought a repro sticker and put it on the repro coil (on the left).  For the life of me, I don't understand why so many reproduction parts are either crap or inaccurate or both.  The sticker design has the overall theme correct, but the fonts, size, and overall fidelity are way off.  I don't understand this cutting corners thing with repro parts.  I would gladly pay much more if they could make the part the same as the original, rather than some cheap knockoff that costs less.  If you're taking the time to repro a sticker, can't you just scan an original, clean it up digitally and make a clean basis from which to print repros?  I would think doing it correctly would take the same time as doing incorrectly, when you're starting from scratch.

 

Also finished the carb heat shield (photo 3).  Turned out really well, I think.  For comparison, here's the original mess I started with (photo 4).

 

Once I run out of small engine-related parts, I'm going to start pulling out ancillary body panels, such as the dash, fender supports, and interior panels, blast them, and get a primer coat on them in order to try out my new paint gun and see if I can get it working right with primer.  Never used one before, so I'll have a learning curve.  I'll slowly move into the fenders, aluminum parts (doors, hood, trunk lid), then work on the main body.  Goal is to have the whole body completed and on the car by 2020, and try to do most if not all the work myself.

 

Happy July 4th!

100_4838.JPG

100_4839.JPG

100_4823.JPG

100_4777.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, hursst said:

If you're taking the time to repro a sticker, can't you just scan an original, clean it up digitally and make a clean basis from which to print repros?  I would think doing it correctly would take the same time as doing incorrectly, when you're starting from scratch.

 

If you want a PERFECT reproduction the only way is to start from scratch. I have done a couple of name plates.

 

1. photograph the item with axis of photo perpendicular to the item. Use a 50 mm lens so there is no distortion. Use a tripod and very good lighting.

2. import the photo onto a layer in a VECTOR graphics program.

3. on another layer, draw over the original photo (which you have sized to the correct original size using the units in the program), i.e. a complete new drawing.

4. when happy, send to print on decal medium.

 

I say VECTOR graphics because that is the only way to get a sharp, non-furry edge, non-pixellated decal. Vector graphics have NO pixellation at any scale, no matter how far you zoom in.

 

I used Inkscape. From the web site, " Inkscape is a professional vector graphics editor for Windows, Mac OS X and Linux. It's free and open source. "

 

Be prepared to put some time into this to get it spot on. You can match any type face. Just print the text into Inkscape with an available font, convert it to paths, then edit the path using Bezier curves. One tricky thing is that all lines have width in Inkscape, unlike CAD programs.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking great!

 

I feel your pain with Moss parts needing adjustment.  Just about everything needs some adjustment.  I also think that artwork not being a perfect duplicate might very well be for fear of copyright violation. 

 

I'm a little concerned to see those air filters because I have the same thing and it makes me wonder if they are not for the TD.   I've been disappointed several times to find out my best parts are actually for an MGA.  Hopefully they were used on both.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Be careful when cleaning the SU dashpots - I have heard that attempting to buff them clean can get them hot enough to permanently distort them! The Burlen UK SU kits come with new shafts with bushes, butterflys etc. Yours will be H4 types based on the brass jet in the pics. Get the best jet seals, Orings etc available, as they are prone to leaking. 

Still watching with interest.

jp 26 Rover 9

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/5/2018 at 6:44 PM, jp928 said:

Be careful when cleaning the SU dashpots - I have heard that attempting to buff them clean can get them hot enough to permanently distort them! The Burlen UK SU kits come with new shafts with bushes, butterflys etc. Yours will be H4 types based on the brass jet in the pics. Get the best jet seals, Orings etc available, as they are prone to leaking. 

Still watching with interest.

jp 26 Rover 9

 

Another danger with buffing dash-pots is they might catch on the 8'' buff wheel and get 'dashed' onto your scrap metal pile. Ask me how I know. Took a lot of work to get the distortion out of that one.

I tend to purchase my Burlen SU parts direct from sucarb.co.uk  A comprehensive website, even if a bit confusing at times. And no, I don't have a connection to the business.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...