Intermittent turn signal indication at dashboard

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, now that we can drive it, a few things come to light ( or in this case, only sometimes)

 

RHS dashboard indicator lamp is intermittent, where as LHS works as it should. Appears that front and rear lamps are flashing on both sides as I can hear the flasher can and can see at night they work., as do the fancy cornering lamps.

 

Am going to put some WD40 spray on the switch and check it is secure.

 

Have seen previous posts on broken cables and incorrect adjustment at the switch and don't look forward to pulling that apart ( it is a tilt steering wheel) to repair, however I will take the advice to remove the spring on the switch.

 

So happy to hear thoughts of those who have been there!

[EmTee]

I'm not aware of issues which may relate specifically to 1st gen Riviera turn signal switches, but I have experienced similar behavior with other 60s - 70s GM cars.  I have noticed that manipulating the turn signal stalk while the signal is operating can cause intermittent dash indicator operation.  Based on that, my hunch is that the issue is with the turn signal switch.  If you can make the problem come and go by fiddling with the switch lever then I'd say that's your culprit.  If it's a dirty contact, then spraying it with WD-40 (or electrical contact cleaner) and exercising the switch may help.

[rodneybeauchamp]

Thanks for your help, gave it a spray the other evening and worked it around a few times,  checked switch was not loose. When out tonight, all worked as it should. Mechanic in a spray can, like to see more of that.

[EmTee]

Excellent -- glad to hear that it was a simple fix! Just one of the gazillion things that WD-40 can do...

[Turbinator]

On 5/22/2016 at 7:31 AM, rodneybeauchamp said:

Well, now that we can drive it, a few things come to light ( or in this case, only sometimes)

 

RHS dashboard indicator lamp is intermittent, where as LHS works as it should. Appears that front and rear lamps are flashing on both sides as I can hear the flasher can and can see at night they work., as do the fancy cornering lamps.

 

Am going to put some WD40 spray on the switch and check it is secure.

 

Have seen previous posts on broken cables and incorrect adjustment at the switch and don't look forward to pulling that apart ( it is a tilt steering wheel) to repair, however I will take the advice to remove the spring on the switch.

 

So happy to hear thoughts of those who have been there!

Rodney, I'm struggling with the turn signal switch on my 63 Buick Riviera. My Left hand ( Drivers side in the USA ) rear tail light signal does not flash and the tail light is off and on intermittently. I'll try some WD 40 and see if that helps. Oh, I did replace the bulb socket in the left hand tail light sense thinking a bad connection was the problem.

[rodneybeauchamp]

Hi Bob,

if the tail lamp is intermittent as well as turn signal not working, it may well be a couple of things.

 

When trouble shooting, first would be to check that the globe does work on both filaments at the battery or substitute with a known working globe ( sometimes even new ones don't work ? )

 

Can you check that you have got 100% earthing at the globe socket, even if that meant adding a wire to the lamp or socket. Once you know that is ok, you can use a test light to confirm you have power to the lamp, both continuous for the tail lamp and flashing for turn signal. ( so many things on my 63 were not working because of corrosion at the terminals, nothing else ? )

 

If no power coming through, then suggest it could be a switch or wiring issue. I'm lucky as I did not need to explore that with anything else than WD40. ?

 

If front turn signal is working ok then it is possibly a wiring/earth issue.

 

There is a switch adjustment procedure in the manual, but hope all it needs is a squirt?

 

Hope this helps,

Rodney

[Jim Cannon]

8 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Rodney, I'm struggling with the turn signal switch on my 63 Buick Riviera. My Left hand ( Drivers side in the USA ) rear tail light signal does not flash and the tail light is off and on intermittently. I'll try some WD 40 and see if that helps. Oh, I did replace the bulb socket in the left hand tail light sense thinking a bad connection was the problem.

RRB-

You have the classic symptoms of a broken turn signal switch cable outer sheath.

 

Look at the end by the switch.  Remove the steering wheel and look at the actuator end.

 

Let me know which end is broken and I can help you fix it.

 

 

[KongaMan]

WD-40 is not a fix.  For anything.

[Turbinator]

7 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

RRB-

You have the classic symptoms of a broken turn signal switch cable outer sheath.

 

Look at the end by the switch.  Remove the steering wheel and look at the actuator end.

 

Let me know which end is broken and I can help you fix it.

 

 

 

7 hours ago, KongaMan said:

WD-40 is not a fix.  For anything.

True, but WD-40 is really good for mosquito bites. :-)

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

7 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

RRB-

You have the classic symptoms of a broken turn signal switch cable outer sheath.

 

Look at the end by the switch.  Remove the steering wheel and look at the actuator end.

 

Let me know which end is broken and I can help you fix it.

 

 

Jim. thank you for your great initiative to help a struggling individual fix his "lights". Fortunately, I have an original copy of the 63  Chassis Service Manual. ( I got the manual rebound with a spiral plastic coated cable with transparent cover for front and back ) I am studying the manual now as I have to methodically and carefully plan this particular repair. I'm reading and studying the manual in the appropriate section so I can get my tools and mind set to do this operation. I've been "up under" the dash trying to adjust the signal switch by movement on the mast with some luck, but no final repair. Unfortunately, arthritis in my lower back, advancing age, and physical size make it a real challenge getting under the dash. I might try putting my legs over the back of drivers seat and getting in that way, if I have to go under the dash again.

I'm on page 10-55 figure 10-64 and have Id'd the signal switch rod. I have also viewed Fig. 10-65 and ID'd the actuating rod in the mast.

In the past when I've been under the dash viewing and listening to the turn signal switch I can hear and see the "switch" engaging for the right hand signal working. When I move the  the turn signal lever for left hand I can see a shiny silver pin move up and down the mast for either left or right, but only hear it engage for the right turn signal.

Please let me observe the actuator with the steering wheel removed and I'll get back to you via your e-mail or this forum ( assuming I can navigate back ) and advise the outcome. Again, Many thanks for your support.

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

10 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Hi Bob,

if the tail lamp is intermittent as well as turn signal not working, it may well be a couple of things.

 

When trouble shooting, first would be to check that the globe does work on both filaments at the battery or substitute with a known working globe ( sometimes even new ones don't work ? )

 

Can you check that you have got 100% earthing at the globe socket, even if that meant adding a wire to the lamp or socket. Once you know that is ok, you can use a test light to confirm you have power to the lamp, both continuous for the tail lamp and flashing for turn signal. ( so many things on my 63 were not working because of corrosion at the terminals, nothing else ? )

 

If no power coming through, then suggest it could be a switch or wiring issue. I'm lucky as I did not need to explore that with anything else than WD40. ?

 

If front turn signal is working ok then it is possibly a wiring/earth issue.

 

There is a switch adjustment procedure in the manual, but hope all it needs is a squirt?

 

Hope this helps,

Rodney

Rodney, so many things to learn in the automotive mechanical and electrical business. I learned to read and write at the University of Maryland Baltimore County so I could earn a living as a "hawker" selling specialized business machines for the mailing/postal and parcel handling industry in the US. I could have spent my time better learning automotive repair as opposed to learning the French language, which I know very little.

Coupled with little knowledge and experience of auto repair my space relations skills are not the best. When I'm in yoga position trying to loosen a rusted nut while standing on my head I have to concentrate on which way to the turn the spanner ( wrench )!

[Jim Cannon]

16 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Jim. thank you for your great initiative to help a struggling individual fix his "lights". Fortunately, I have an original copy of the 63  Chassis Service Manual. ( I got the manual rebound with a spiral plastic coated cable with transparent cover for front and back ) I am studying the manual now as I have to methodically and carefully plan this particular repair. I'm reading and studying the manual in the appropriate section so I can get my tools and mind set to do this operation. I've been "up under" the dash trying to adjust the signal switch by movement on the mast with some luck, but no final repair. Unfortunately, arthritis in my lower back, advancing age, and physical size make it a real challenge getting under the dash. I might try putting my legs over the back of drivers seat and getting in that way, if I have to go under the dash again.

I'm on page 10-55 figure 10-64 and have Id'd the signal switch rod. I have also viewed Fig. 10-65 and ID'd the actuating rod in the mast.

In the past when I've been under the dash viewing and listening to the turn signal switch I can hear and see the "switch" engaging for the right hand signal working. When I move the  the turn signal lever for left hand I can see a shiny silver pin move up and down the mast for either left or right, but only hear it engage for the right turn signal.

Please let me observe the actuator with the steering wheel removed and I'll get back to you via your e-mail or this forum ( assuming I can navigate back ) and advise the outcome. Again, Many thanks for your support.

Red Riviera Bob

 

You have a tilt column, correct?  You will find the instructions in the shop manual for adjusting the turn signal switch to be incorrect for a tilt wheel.  They are correct for a fixed wheel.

 

I understand how it is difficult to get under the instrument panel.  You don't need to, really.

 

Remove the trim piece from the underside of the column to expose the turn signal actuator cable.  Trace it down to the switch.  Look at the switch with a light.   As you actuate the turn signal lever, you should see the wire moving the black switch pin "up and down" the column for each turn direction.

 

I have found that the signals work if you lower the tilt wheel.  Try different positions down.  Try holding the sheath against the column with your fingers while actuating the turn signal lever.  That helps compensate for a broken sheath up at the actuating end of the cable.

 

If you ever get under there to remove the switch, remove the long coil spring on the turn signal switch.  You don't need it, and the spring breaks the cable.

 

What is the build date code on your car, or the FB number from the data plate above the booster?

 

 

 

 

[1965rivgs]

On 7/17/2017 at 0:38 PM, Red Riviera Bob said:

Rodney, I'm struggling with the turn signal switch on my 63 Buick Riviera. My Left hand ( Drivers side in the USA ) rear tail light signal does not flash and the tail light is off and on intermittently. I'll try some WD 40 and see if that helps. Oh, I did replace the bulb socket in the left hand tail light sense thinking a bad connection was the problem.

It is very common for a bad turn signal switch, or a bad tilt wheel cable not allowing a good turn signal switch to return to a neutral position, to cause a brake or turn signal light problem but an intermittent taillight is another issue. Sounds like a bad ground which could very well be the cause of all 3 issues. No offense meant toward WD-40,

  Tom Mooney

Edited July 19, 2017 by 1965rivgs (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

2 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

 

You have a tilt column, correct?  You will find the instructions in the shop manual for adjusting the turn signal switch to be incorrect for a tilt wheel.  They are correct for a fixed wheel.

 

I understand how it is difficult to get under the instrument panel.  You don't need to, really.

 

Remove the trim piece from the underside of the column to expose the turn signal actuator cable.  Trace it down to the switch.  Look at the switch with a light.   As you actuate the turn signal lever, you should see the wire moving the black switch pin "up and down" the column for each turn direction.

 

I have found that the signals work if you lower the tilt wheel.  Try different positions down.  Try holding the sheath against the column with your fingers while actuating the turn signal lever.  That helps compensate for a broken sheath up at the actuating end of the cable.

 

If you ever get under there to remove the switch, remove the long coil spring on the turn signal switch.  You don't need it, and the spring breaks the cable.

 

What is the build date code on your car, or the FB number from the data plate above the booster?

 

 

 

 

Jim, I do have a tilt steering wheel. I can't get at the info for the build date this minute, but I'll get it later this morning. I have tried lowering the tilt wheel WITHOUT holding the sheath against the column. I will try holding the sheath against the column and see what happens when I actuate the turn signal lever. I can remove the coil spring that breaks the cable.

Another piece of information you might need to know. Apparently there is a bolt/screw that holds the turn signal switch in particular positions on the mast/column. It appears the screw/bolt has been sheared off. Previous attempts by prior owners have used cable ties to secure the switch in position on the mast. The bracket the turn signal switch is mounted on stays in one place with the cable ties. ( Ive since purchased a right angle drill motor in hopes of tapping/extracting the broken screw/bolt that holds the switch mount in place) The switch can move up and down the switch mount. Now, I've held the turn signal switch in different positions along the mast as I tested the turn signal, but no luck.

I've been struggling with this problem for a year now because a new switch is not to be easily located. I have cornering lights and from what I'v e read I need a turn signal switch with 9 pins. I bought a used switch for a 63 with tilt, but the switch has only 6 pins.

In summary, I'll get the info regarding the build date. Do your suggested work to see if there is the cure. Additionally, Tom Mooney added that I might have a bad ground wire because of the intermittent tail light problem. I'll check out the ground wire as well.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob

[1965rivgs]

4 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Jim, I do have a tilt steering wheel. I can't get at the info for the build date this minute, but I'll get it later this morning. I have tried lowering the tilt wheel WITHOUT holding the sheath against the column. I will try holding the sheath against the column and see what happens when I actuate the turn signal lever. I can remove the coil spring that breaks the cable.

Another piece of information you might need to know. Apparently there is a bolt/screw that holds the turn signal switch in particular positions on the mast/column. It appears the screw/bolt has been sheared off. Previous attempts by prior owners have used cable ties to secure the switch in position on the mast. The bracket the turn signal switch is mounted on stays in one place with the cable ties. ( Ive since purchased a right angle drill motor in hopes of tapping/extracting the broken screw/bolt that holds the switch mount in place) The switch can move up and down the switch mount. Now, I've held the turn signal switch in different positions along the mast as I tested the turn signal, but no luck.

I've been struggling with this problem for a year now because a new switch is not to be easily located. I have cornering lights and from what I'v e read I need a turn signal switch with 9 pins. I bought a used switch for a 63 with tilt, but the switch has only 6 pins.

In summary, I'll get the info regarding the build date. Do your suggested work to see if there is the cure. Additionally, Tom Mooney added that I might have a bad ground wire because of the intermittent tail light problem. I'll check out the ground wire as well.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob

Not a ground wire as there is no dedicated ground wire in the rear harness. The light sockets ground thru their bases into the turn signal housing. Fix the taillight issue first and move on to the turn/brake light issue next if it still exists.

  Tom

[Turbinator]

1 hour ago, 1965rivgs said:

Not a ground wire as there is no dedicated ground wire in the rear harness. The light sockets ground thru their bases into the turn signal housing. Fix the taillight issue first and move on to the turn/brake light issue next if it still exists.

  Tom

I replaced the problem tail light with a new socket that grounds on the metal box housing that holds the socket and bulb with intermittent lighting. I don't know what to do next. Thank you again.

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

5 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Jim, I do have a tilt steering wheel. I can't get at the info for the build date this minute, but I'll get it later this morning. I have tried lowering the tilt wheel WITHOUT holding the sheath against the column. I will try holding the sheath against the column and see what happens when I actuate the turn signal lever. I can remove the coil spring that breaks the cable.

Another piece of information you might need to know. Apparently there is a bolt/screw that holds the turn signal switch in particular positions on the mast/column. It appears the screw/bolt has been sheared off. Previous attempts by prior owners have used cable ties to secure the switch in position on the mast. The bracket the turn signal switch is mounted on stays in one place with the cable ties. ( Ive since purchased a right angle drill motor in hopes of tapping/extracting the broken screw/bolt that holds the switch mount in place) The switch can move up and down the switch mount. Now, I've held the turn signal switch in different positions along the mast as I tested the turn signal, but no luck.

I've been struggling with this problem for a year now because a new switch is not to be easily located. I have cornering lights and from what I'v e read I need a turn signal switch with 9 pins. I bought a used switch for a 63 with tilt, but the switch has only 6 pins.

In summary, I'll get the info regarding the build date. Do your suggested work to see if there is the cure. Additionally, Tom Mooney added that I might have a bad ground wire because of the intermittent tail light problem. I'll check out the ground wire as well.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob

Good Morning, the FB data are "FB 33321". I took off the mast/column covers and you suggested. I tried holding the sheath steady against the mast/column as I moved the turn signal lever. I have the right signal. The best I could do for the left signal was a constant green light. The left signal would not blink, buy the left signal light on the dash did light. I moved the tilt wheel up and down numerous times with not much luck other than one position that gave me the right hand signal to blink.

BTW, the signal lever/switch does not return automatically after engaging the lever for right or left turn. To summarize, I have three problems:

1. Left signal won't blink, but lights-at least for a while

2.Intermittent tail light

3.Turn signal lever does not return automatically after a left or right hand turn.

Many thanks,

Bob

 

[1965rivgs]

9 minutes ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Good Morning, the FB data are "FB 33321". I took off the mast/column covers and you suggested. I tried holding the sheath steady against the mast/column as I moved the turn signal lever. I have the right signal. The best I could do for the left signal was a constant green light. The left signal would not blink, buy the left signal light on the dash did light. I moved the tilt wheel up and down numerous times with not much luck other than one position that gave me the right hand signal to blink.

BTW, the signal lever/switch does not return automatically after engaging the lever for right or left turn. To summarize, I have three problems:

1. Left signal won't blink, but lights-at least for a while

2.Intermittent tail light

3.Turn signal lever does not return automatically after a left or right hand turn.

Many thanks,

Bob

 

OK, so if you have good ground at the socket and the other tail is working you must be losing the tail voltage to the intermittent tail between where it splits off and the problem socket. I dont have access to a schematic as I am out of town but I`m sure Buick splits the tail light circuit between left and right somewhere in the rear harness. Look for black tape, previous repairs like butt splices, etc...at this point I would be troubleshooting with a quality test light or a DVOM and not trusting that I have a good ground because I have replaced the socket. Just because a part is "new" doesnt mean it is doing what it is supposed to do or that there is not a flaw in installation.

  Tom

[60FlatTop]

I always had a lot of problems with my signal lights being dim or not flashing. The socket in the taillight housing doesn't look like it was designed for 50 years, especially the ground.

 

I grounded mine to the body through the taillight housing studs. They are bright and they blink now.

I don't expect that crappy little cable operated switch to ever work really well, and after 40 years I always double check the level for return after a turn.

 

My replacement socket had a metal ground tab. I just came in from the back side and soldered a wire to it and tied them together.

Bernie

 

[Turbinator]

12 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

OK, so if you have good ground at the socket and the other tail is working you must be losing the tail voltage to the intermittent tail between where it splits off and the problem socket. I dont have access to a schematic as I am out of town but I`m sure Buick splits the tail light circuit between left and right somewhere in the rear harness. Look for black tape, previous repairs like butt splices, etc...at this point I would be troubleshooting with a quality test light or a DVOM and not trusting that I have a good ground because I have replaced the socket. Just because a part is "new" doesnt mean it is doing what it is supposed to do or that there is not a flaw in installation.

  Tom

Tom, FlatTop60 Bernie, gave some pics of better grounding he did with his socket and tail light bracket on his 64. I know the criticality of electrical connections being clean and solid. Thank you.

 

9 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

I always had a lot of problems with my signal lights being dim or not flashing. The socket in the taillight housing doesn't look like it was designed for 50 years, especially the ground.

 

I grounded mine to the body through the taillight housing studs. They are bright and they blink now.

I don't expect that crappy little cable operated switch to ever work really well, and after 40 years I always double check the level for return after a turn.

 

My replacement socket had a metal ground tab. I just came in from the back side and soldered a wire to it and tied them together.

Bernie

 

Bernie, it appears I have the same color bulb socket and wires you have on your socket! I'll ground it like you have in the picture. I can see the yellow ground wire coming out of the tail light housing to the tail light bracket bolt terminating with a blue color around the ground. It appears a second blue ground wire terminal on the same bracket bolt goes else where. Where might the second ground wire from the bracket bolt being going? Thank you very much. Bob

[Turbinator]

19 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

OK, so if you have good ground at the socket and the other tail is working you must be losing the tail voltage to the intermittent tail between where it splits off and the problem socket. I dont have access to a schematic as I am out of town but I`m sure Buick splits the tail light circuit between left and right somewhere in the rear harness. Look for black tape, previous repairs like butt splices, etc...at this point I would be troubleshooting with a quality test light or a DVOM and not trusting that I have a good ground because I have replaced the socket. Just because a part is "new" doesnt mean it is doing what it is supposed to do or that there is not a flaw in installation.

  Tom

Tom, as aside... what kind of wheels do you have on your red riviera in your picture? Are they chrome wheels with 3 prong knock off?

Thank you

[Turbinator]

20 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

OK, so if you have good ground at the socket and the other tail is working you must be losing the tail voltage to the intermittent tail between where it splits off and the problem socket. I dont have access to a schematic as I am out of town but I`m sure Buick splits the tail light circuit between left and right somewhere in the rear harness. Look for black tape, previous repairs like butt splices, etc...at this point I would be troubleshooting with a quality test light or a DVOM and not trusting that I have a good ground because I have replaced the socket. Just because a part is "new" doesnt mean it is doing what it is supposed to do or that there is not a flaw in installation.

  Tom

Tom, I'm on it the grounding item as you have suggested. Unfortunately, I do not know electric basics- like testing for open circuits with a test light. Don't know how- just never learned the how to use a test light. I have one, but not sure how to use it. Trust me, I have some long time friends will help me, that are auto/truck/heavy equipment mechanics that will come and help AFTER I've exhausted all that I know. Thanks again.Bob

[Turbinator]

3 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

I always had a lot of problems with my signal lights being dim or not flashing. The socket in the taillight housing doesn't look like it was designed for 50 years, especially the ground.

 

I grounded mine to the body through the taillight housing studs. They are bright and they blink now.

I don't expect that crappy little cable operated switch to ever work really well, and after 40 years I always double check the level for return after a turn.

 

My replacement socket had a metal ground tab. I just came in from the back side and soldered a wire to it and tied them together.

Bernie

 

Bernie, I can see what you did with the socket and grounding. I did the same thing for both tail lights. WOW! what a difference! The brightness is much higher. I have tail lights on both sides and a turn signal on the right. I still struggling with a fix for the pesky turn signal cable being loose/broken whatever; but, no turn signal on left side. Jim Connor was going to get back to me with some suggestions.

I saw in the past where a fellow used a GM vent cable as a substitute for the 63 Buick Riviera turn signal cable. I'll try to find that info in cyber world. In the meantime thanks for the lesson on grounding. I'm happy I can solder. A little messy, but they solder joints hold.

Many thanks

[Turbinator]

3 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

OK, so if you have good ground at the socket and the other tail is working you must be losing the tail voltage to the intermittent tail between where it splits off and the problem socket. I dont have access to a schematic as I am out of town but I`m sure Buick splits the tail light circuit between left and right somewhere in the rear harness. Look for black tape, previous repairs like butt splices, etc...at this point I would be troubleshooting with a quality test light or a DVOM and not trusting that I have a good ground because I have replaced the socket. Just because a part is "new" doesnt mean it is doing what it is supposed to do or that there is not a flaw in installation.

  Tom

tom, you and Bernie were correct on the grounding issue. Bernie sent some good pics and straight forward direction on how to make the fix.

I have tail lights and a right turn signal, but no left hand signal.

I'll keep at it.

Many Thanks for your consideration and great help.

Red Riviera Bob

[KongaMan]

I had recurring problems with taillights and turn signals over the years.  It always boiled down to bad grounds at the rear lamp sockets.

 

After a while, you get tired of popping the trunk and wiggling the socket.

 

In the meantime, which bulb(s) don't light when the left signal is on?  If you've got a constant light on the indicator, that usually means that one of the bulbs isn't lighting.  It might be the front bulb.  Or you might just have a burned out rear bulb.  Don't overlook the obvious.

Edited July 19, 2017 by KongaMan (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

Sir, just replaced rear left socket and grounded the bulb socket ( soldered a wire ) and grounded to the frame for both left and right tail lights.

I'll look for the lights in the front.  The left bulb is lighted in the tail light when I turn on the left signal. Sometimes the left signal light lights, sometimes it doesn't. For sure the left signal does not blink.

Thank you so much for your help. With help from all you guys at the ROA I can only succeed!

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

On 7/19/2017 at 8:47 AM, Red Riviera Bob said:

Tom, FlatTop60 Bernie, gave some pics of better grounding he did with his socket and tail light bracket on his 64. I know the criticality of electrical connections being clean and solid. Thank you.

 

Bernie, it appears I have the same color bulb socket and wires you have on your socket! I'll ground it like you have in the picture. I can see the yellow ground wire coming out of the tail light housing to the tail light bracket bolt terminating with a blue color around the ground. It appears a second blue ground wire terminal on the same bracket bolt goes else where. Where might the second ground wire from the bracket bolt being going? Thank you very much. Bob

Bernie, tail lights glowing like crazy! My grounding and wiring was ok. The fuse for the tail lights was bad. The fuse block is hard to reach. The space on the floorboard on the drivers side is a bit tight; however, I persisted. A friend of mine showed me how to use a what looks like an ice pick with a light inside the transparent handle and it has a wire hooked to the end of the handle to test circuits. I never knew how to use a circuit tester. Now I have a start on how to use a circuit tester. 

The turn signals are still baffling me. I can't seem to adjust the switch and hold the actuator cable in place to get the directionals to work. I'll get it fixed on way or the other.

Thanks again,

Bob

[60FlatTop]

That bit of technology is a P right in the A. Mine has never really worked seamlessly and to my satisfaction. Once I took the steering mast cover off and removed the column bracket nuts. With the whole thing lowered it was easier to get to the adjusting bolts on the switch. That was over 20 years ago. I had the car out yesterday. Maybe I will be inspired this weekend and monkey with it. If I do I will lower the column.

It might be easier to rig it with voice command using today's technology.

Bernie

[KongaMan]

Put the window down and use your arm. Or do like they do out here and don't signal at all.

[telriv]

Since the seats are so EASY to remove I would do that along with the other suggestions. Gives far more room & you don't have to be such a contortionist.

[Turbinator]

On 7/19/2017 at 8:30 AM, 1965rivgs said:

OK, so if you have good ground at the socket and the other tail is working you must be losing the tail voltage to the intermittent tail between where it splits off and the problem socket. I dont have access to a schematic as I am out of town but I`m sure Buick splits the tail light circuit between left and right somewhere in the rear harness. Look for black tape, previous repairs like butt splices, etc...at this point I would be troubleshooting with a quality test light or a DVOM and not trusting that I have a good ground because I have replaced the socket. Just because a part is "new" doesnt mean it is doing what it is supposed to do or that there is not a flaw in installation.

  Tom

Tom, Finally got the tail lights working by grounding the bulb socket to the car body. Signals still don't work. I'll check the front bulbs AND the relay.

Thanks again.

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

2 hours ago, KongaMan said:

Put the window down and use your arm. Or do like they do out here and don't signal at all.

Great ideal if I were driving a farm truck :-)  You must live in Maryland. No one here uses their turning indicator when changing directions. 

I could do that if I were in a pinch. I'd like everything to work, but the clock and the cigarette lighter. Oh, don't care if the radio doesn't work either.

Now, everything else has to work like it is suppose to work.

Thanks for the tip.

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

25 minutes ago, telriv said:

Since the seats are so EASY to remove I would do that along with the other suggestions. Gives far more room & you don't have to be such a contortionist.

Are you ever right! I could go on for two weeks telling you my aches pains advancing age, etc., but I won't bother you with that stuff. I guess 4 bolts hold the seat in place? Next time, I'll strongly consider taking the seat out.

Thank you for the tip.

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

That bit of technology is a P right in the A. Mine has never really worked seamlessly and to my satisfaction. Once I took the steering mast cover off and removed the column bracket nuts. With the whole thing lowered it was easier to get to the adjusting bolts on the switch. That was over 20 years ago. I had the car out yesterday. Maybe I will be inspired this weekend and monkey with it. If I do I will lower the column.

It might be easier to rig it with voice command using today's technology.

Bernie

Bernie, do you remember the Scotsman that was the chief engineer on Star Trek? Scotty would say, "Computer..... and of course the computer would follow the voice command.

One fellow suggested taking out the front seat to work on the car.

Maybe you can speculate why the newly installed fuse for the turn signals won't light when I use a circuit tester? The engine is running when I test either of the fuse. Could it be a bad relay ( which I take is the "flasher" )? I think I'm almost there on this project. Whew! the heat is taking the starch right out of me.

Bob

[Turbinator]

On 7/18/2017 at 11:07 PM, Jim Cannon said:

 

You have a tilt column, correct?  You will find the instructions in the shop manual for adjusting the turn signal switch to be incorrect for a tilt wheel.  They are correct for a fixed wheel.

 

I understand how it is difficult to get under the instrument panel.  You don't need to, really.

 

Remove the trim piece from the underside of the column to expose the turn signal actuator cable.  Trace it down to the switch.  Look at the switch with a light.   As you actuate the turn signal lever, you should see the wire moving the black switch pin "up and down" the column for each turn direction. I did this with no problems.

 

I have found that the signals work if you lower the tilt wheel.  Try different positions down.  Try holding the sheath against the column with your fingers while actuating the turn signal lever.  That helps compensate for a broken sheath up at the actuating end of the cable. I did this procedure and could feel the cable move back and forth. On the lower part of the mast/column I viewed the silver shiny pin move back and forth on the switch. If the end of the actuator cable is broken it must be on the steering wheel end? 

 

If you ever get under there to remove the switch, remove the long coil spring on the turn signal switch.  You don't need it, and the spring breaks the cable.

 

What is the build date code on your car, or the FB number from the data plate above the booster? I sent this info the other day.

Could it be the relay ( aka flasher )? I replaced the fuse for the turn signals and I tested the fuse with a circuit tester in the fuse block on both ends of the fuse and the circuit tester did not light up. The cornering bulbs all light up on the left and right on the front with just the cornering lights turned on. So me of have suggested the bulbs might be bad on the front end. All the sealed beams work on high and low. Can you suggest some other action I might take to solve the turn signal problem. Hope- fully I mentioned I got great help from others on how to fix the tail lights. The tail lights work.

Many thanks.

Red Riviera Bob

 

 

 

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Hi Bob,

you could use your circuit tester skills and check you have power at the sockets front and rear. Lots of problems on my electrical circuits were due to poor earthing and poor contacts due to corrosion. So it might pay to clean up all the contact points (wire wheel on a Dremel is great) .

 

You might also want to invest in a multi meter so you can check globes and fuses without powering them up. And check the voltage that you are getting at the globe socket. But that might be for another day.

Good luck, ?

[Turbinator]

Rodney, thanks for the tip. I wasted time on French class in high school. My time would have been better spent in metal, automotive, and wood shop classes. I'm lucky to have folks like you on the other part of the planet taking time to help out. My mechanic friend showed me yesterday how to use a circuit tester that looks like an ice pick. In return I take down what we describe as Poison Ivy plants that grow on his property.

 

I like your description of "earthing" and how you use the earthing to ground a circuit. Americans use the word "ground" to earth a circuit. Electricity is hard for me to understand. Amps, watts, impedance, power, voltage, fuse breakers, and the like are hard to keep in your mind if you don't practice usage of the terms everyday. I do know the value of a clean solid electrical connection for certain.  I build my own electric guitar power cables with the best parts I can afford. I hate bad sound reproduction, difficult tail lights, and the like. 

Many Thanks,

Red Riviera Bob

Lutherville MD USA

[Jim Cannon]

Yes, try replacing the flasher can.

 

If your cornering lights work correctly, then your turn signal switch actuating cable is good.

 

Front turn signal sockets can also loose their ground.  Check them with an ohmmeter.

 

Your FB number is late enough for you to have the heavier duty, thicker cable outer sheath.  That makes it more durable.

 

You should still remove the long coil spring from the turn signal switch.

 

 

[1965rivgs]

12 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Tom, Finally got the tail lights working by grounding the bulb socket to the car body. Signals still don't work. I'll check the front bulbs AND the relay.

Thanks again.

Red Riviera Bob

  When you place the turn signal lever in the left or right position do any of the turn signal bulbs (NOT the taillights, turn OFF the taillights) light up? If not, you must determine why...are each of the bulbs getting voltage in each signal switch position? If no voltage this could be a switch problem or wiring, to fix, voltage can be applied to each circuit at the turn signal switch end. If no light, is the problem the bulb? If not, is the problem the contacts in the socket or a bad ground?

 

Before you condemn the flasher ALL bulbs (front and rear) which are associated with the left or right signal position must light and be drawing power. It is this load thru the circuit which determines if the flasher will cycle. If you have a front signal and not a rear signal (or vice versa) this problem must be fixed before you move on or condemn the flasher.

 

To "adjust" the turn signal switch proceed as follows:

  Put the tilt wheel in the position which you will be using it the most (for most people this is one position)

  Loosen the mounting bolts at the turn signal switch. While depressing the brake pedal, observe the rear brake lights and move the position of the switch until both left and right brake lights illuminate (this is assuming both the left and right brake/turn signal circuits and bulbs are functional). Now, the turn signal switch should be in a neutral position and you should be able to obtain both left and right turn signal switch positions.

 

Tom

 

[60FlatTop]

Here is a tester I made up something around 30 years ago and I pull it out of the drawer quite often. I use it to test both grounding and power supply.

 

The big clamp is for the negative battery post to test for a ground or the positive to apply power to a device that doesn't work.

The wire is about 25' long to reach any device on the car.

 

Just put it on the ground post and clip the small end to the taillight housing or bulb socket and you have a known completed ground, the same bypass works from the positive cable.

 

See Scotty with his hands behind his back?

 

Guess what he has in his hands.

 

Oh, if you run into me with my '60 Electra I will show you my voice command engine start; no hands, no wires. I'm tricky like that.

Bernie