Beltfed Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 (edited) I have four Chevy hubcaps which have dings or dents from removal. They are SST and only one layer, unlike my Packard's. Not real expensive or impossible to replace. Does anyone do this for a reasonable fee or should I just cut my losses and find new ones? Thanks. Edited May 19, 2016 by Beltfed (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest straight shooter Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Look for a paint-less dent removal place, they might be able to help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 You say they are not pricey to replace, so have a go yourself. There are lots of how-to books on what we call "panel beating". You will need a soft touch and lots of patience for your first one. SST=? Note you might need to anneal it first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skyking Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 As long as they are not plated, you could do it yourself. Like stated above, time and patience...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beltfed Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 I have hammers and Dolly's, shot bags, and various anvils for 'panel beating'. Mostly used on body panels and such. As most know one gets a panel as flat as possible and then uses a skim coat of filler to get it ready for paint. With these hubcaps that process can't be used as they are shiny, they will show every dimple. This is an old Chevy truck which is almost as they made it, oxidized paint and all. Dare I say it...'barn find' but with no damage or mouse poop. I guess a few small dings from usage fits the truck. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Try it yourself- there is a book on ebay/azamon called "Metal Bumping" by Frank Sargent for less than $20 It is a must read for anyone going to do metal work. It explains things very well. The FTE (Ford Truck Enthusiast forum) turned me on to it when I was rebuilding my 49 F3 see before and after pics. First time I did any metal work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beltfed Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 The wheels and stance 'scream'.....Street Rod! But that's OK with me as it survived and your second pic looks like most would have crushed it. Great work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 I bought it out of the last barn within the city of Chicago. Took it down to the frame. It had a flat head 6 in it and widow maker wheels. I got the flat head running for about 10 minute when it thru a rod and destroyed the block. Dropped a 5.0 EFI Mustang in it so it at least stayed all Ford. The stance is due to original leaf springs, all 14 of them in the rear and a Jag front rack & pinion. It's an F3 heavy duty which is actually a 3/4 ton rated as a 1 ton. Drove it twice and sold it. The fun was in the build. Now I've got the 38 State Commander which is a survivor out of a barn in PA after 40+ years. It runs and looks ok. The interior should be re-done but it is only original once so I am still undecided if I should fix it. The best part is driving it 4 or 5 times a week. Have fun. Dave S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer09 Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 I would just buy another set and sell your old set...................... trade up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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