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Looking for new tires...


nick8086
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A friend has similar bias-look radials on his 59 Ford retract and loves them.  He got his from Universal Tire.  Excellent service, by the way. He purchased the tires one Fall Carlisle, had a quality issue with one of them, returned it at the following Spring Carlisle without a receipt and they exchanged it no questions asked.

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If you want the car judged in AACA judging, you need to buy the correct bias ply tires. The bias look radials will cost you a significant number of points.  If you want the car to look like it did when new, you should buy the correct bias ply tires. If you think you have to have radials for some reason and want it to look closer to original but don't care about authenticity or judging, you can buy the bias look radials.

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2 hours ago, MCHinson said:

If you want the car judged in AACA judging, you need to buy the correct bias ply tires. The bias look radials will cost you a significant number of points.  If you want the car to look like it did when new, you should buy the correct bias ply tires. If you think you have to have radials for some reason and want it to look closer to original but don't care about authenticity or judging, you can buy the bias look radials.

Well that's important to know how important correctness is on the showground ! ;)

Edited by helfen (see edit history)
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Interesting, I buy Michelins for my cars because wet traction is very important to me and it rains a lot here. Guess if the points were that important I'd put the bias tires on factory correct wheels "for judging only" and then keep my modern tires on modern rims for safety on the highway. Heck I remember those low cost OEM "2 ply rating" tires were the ones Bill Neely said "weren't even safe in the driveway".

 

Do they also take points off for the DOT label required for any tire sold in the US for highway use ? They did not exist back in the day.

 

Am surprised that points are deducted for a safety item. Are points deducted for seat belts also ?

 

ps AFAIR tires were made with a white layer covered by a black layer. To make a whitewall, the mfr would trim away the black layer so a real "white wall" was sunk a few thousands under the black and this was visible if you looked.

 

Of course Portawalls weren't.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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padgett,

 

The DOT labels are a legal requirement so no deduction is taken. The correct reproduction tires are available so switching to a non-authentic tire does result in a point deduction. The bias ply tires are not unsafe so switching to radials is not a "safety item". Seat belts are allowed without deduction as a safety item.

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Depends on what you consider a safety item or unsafe. Back in the day even a certain Goodyear tire expert considered the OEM bias tires "unsafe". Modern radials, particularly upscale Michelins and a few others, are far superior in heavy rain than any bias tire I have ever known (and that includes Blue Streak rain tires and Dog Bone Dunlops). Living in a place where tourists stop and look at a sign that says "do not stop" on an expressway and it tends to rain often, I would not put my family on anything else. 

 

At least for me if I cared that much about points judging (which few do properly anyway). I'd have a set of bias tires/narrow wheels used only on the show field and never on a public road. Am surprised tires are not considered normal maintenance items anyway.

 

And when is the AACA going to start taking points off for Delco Remy R59 batteries. No car came down the assembly line with one yet I see at every show.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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padgett,  

 

For AACA judging purposes, what matters is the AACA judging guidelines. The opinion of one unnamed "Goodyear tire expert" does not make a difference in what the AACA Judging system requires. The judging guidelines are available online if you are interested in learning more about AACA's judging system. Like tires, specific brand is unimportant for batteries in AACA Judging, but a battery must appear "period correct". I have seen tiems where non-period appearing batteries have certainly resulted in deductions. 

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Nick,

You have seen both sides of the tire argument.  What are you planning on doing with you car?  If you are going to be driving the car a lot, like daily you might consider radials or the radial-bias look tire, because it is cheaper to go that way.  If you will only be driving the car on rare, nice days or are planning on selling the car, go with the original bias tires.  A serious buyer of a rare car should not deduct from the price if the car has correct tires on it, but may deduct if the car has radials.  I tend to believe that a lot of the people on here saying radials are safer are saying that only because a modern radial is cheaper than the correct tire and they don't want to spend the dollars for the correct tire.  I know I'm that way.  I run modern radials on some of my '60's cars just because they are cheaper.  My armor is on for this comment.

 

Decide what you want to do with the car and it is your decision.

 

Edited by 61polara (see edit history)
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There is no indication that nick8086 has any interest in a AACA show. So nick8086 please give us a yes or no so we don't get into this judging argument for nowt!

Lets stop arguing until we find out his answer please.

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Price has nothing to do with it. Right answer is two sets of wheels and tires. One correct if you care about judging and one modern. No buyer is going to deduct for that choice.

BTW I mentioned the name in a different post, was just wondering who would rise to it.

 

Fact is that the single greatest improvement in automobiles in the last 50 years has been in tire technology. Just take a look at 100-0 braking distances (better make is 60-0 for drum braked cars) then and now.

 

Having lived through the transition (and was racing for most of it) from tires I always thought were too skinny (6.00x16s on a four year old car). To decent in early 70s (10.45x15 front and 12.65x15 rear blue streaks for SCCA (and even then had a set of BFG  Radial T/As for rain) to 60 and 70 series radials on everything (well, Crossie has erasers) today. IMNSHO bias tires are only good for one thing: maximum tire smoke (Had H-78s on a 70 GP with a four speed. Friends called it "asphyxiation".)

 

ps was a good thing that F-70x14 wide ovals were $100/set, needed new ones every few months. Judge came with bias-belteds on 14x6 wheels. Hopefully those will never be repopped.

 

BTW I agree you can make judging rules anything the members do not disagree too violently about. Just if they were ever really enforced (e.g. part numbers and date codes on carbs - have most of Rochester and a lot of Carter (now Eidelbrock) or what were differences in the same car produced at different plants or in what month did streamlined changes occur e.g. speedo changes).

 

Enough.

 

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If you want the car judged in AACA judging, you need to buy the correct bias ply tires.

 

The car is not a B/J car - Just an original  car.. Fix it  up as I go... .  I am  not interest in  judging .. Just like to take it out .. 

 

If I take it to a car show with cars guys. I get the taller trophy..  The other shows do not know what it is:

 

 

 

 

hoddd.JPG

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)
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I remember in the 70s or so I was usually driving cars or trucks from the 50s or 60s.

Putting radial tires on was like getting a new car. Much safer if the car handles better.

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10 minutes ago, JACK M said:

I remember in the 70s or so I was usually driving cars or trucks from the 50s or 60s.

Putting radial tires on was like getting a new car. Much safer if the car handles better.

 With Jack M's comment, And with nick8086's comment we can see the answer much clearer.

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The tires, radiator, Hoses, Belts. and Water Pump was on my to do list.. It is now time to find the stuff and  replace them..

 

what is your reason for not wanting to just buy a bias tire and get it over with?  Just starting to look at my options...

 

I saw this tire at the local repair shop..  I was picking up  gas with no extra stuff in it...

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