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1925-45 Front Seat Wood Detail


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The non-original wood framing in my Flint built 1925-45 needs to be replaced, and I will begin by modifying this existing wood framing until it can be used as a pattern for making new. Since the Front Seat platform wood was completely missing, it looks like a good place to start.  

I mocked up the Front seat wood after examining photos from a mix of Standard and Master.  Holden wood framing is slightly different in the front seat area, so I made a few guesses about how the Flint built wood should look. This area is usually all covered up with upholstery so is very difficult to get a clear idea of how it really goes together.  In the photos below are numbered dimensions needed,  indicated by D-, and questions Q-.   I made all these mock up parts real quick & dirty from scrap wood, so the craftsmanship should not be graded here, just point out what looks wrong and set me straight.  Also needed is the thickness of these wood pieces. 

 

thank you

 

Kevin
BCA # 47712

 

 

s-1 front seat base.jpg

s-2 front seat base.jpg

s-3 front seat base.jpg

s-4 front seat base.jpg

s-5 front seat base.jpg

s-6 front seat base.jpg

s-7 front seat base.jpg

s-8  front seat base.jpg

s-9 front seat base.jpg

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Kevin,   What you have there looks pretty close.  I,ll take a few measurements of mine tomorrow.  The last pic of the seat riser,  it is 3 3/4" and sits down into the rabbet in the side rails and the floor buts up to it,  not it sitting on the floor.  That way the metal tray can screw/nail  onto the seat riser.  The last photo is taken upside down. showing that it is deeper than the corner blocks

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SAM_4092.JPG

Edited by ROD W (see edit history)
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Kevin, I love the way you have added the dimensions onto the photos.  Is this what is called 'Photoshop'?  I am running Windows 7 as the operating system on our computer - will this support this program if this is what it is?  These wooden framed bodies at this point in time were really complex structures.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Terry,

Lots of ways to do this.  I use Microsoft Power point, and I insert a picture.  Then I can draw on the picture and add text and arrows etc.  Since a lot of people can't see or access a powerpoint, I do the following. 

You can get "cute pdf writer" for free off the internet, and this will save the entire picture as a PDF file.

Microsoft also has something called "snipping tool".  This takes screen shots, and saves the screen shot as .jpg.  I can post a .pdf or a .jpg on the Forum. 

 

I have a lot of files even in excel, but I have to convert to jpg so they can be posted. 

Hugh

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Terry

I have also been using Powerpoint to combine photos, text, and block graphics into a slide, then take a picture using another free software called "Greenshot", which is activated on the computer by pushing the Print screen button, then click and drag to take a photo. 

The wood in these Buicks is a real puzzle to figure out, which gets more complicated when there are fewer original pieces remaining to take measurements and patterns from.  My father made new wood for this car back in the 80's with a few pieces of weathered original wood to copy, then lost interest in the car and parked it outside in the rain for about 15 years.  I am now finding how lots of little errors crept into the rewood project, resulting in misalignment of all the pieces.  So now it's my turn to fix it. 

I missed a dimension of the Seat Platform overhang in the front, so added another slide.  That is supposed to be a section view of the seat riser and Seat platform.

Rod W - regarding the Holden body wood sill to frame bolt in the vicinity of the Front Seat Riser.  Was there a bolt in this location (see circled locations in below photo) or is that bolt underneath the seat platform or thru those thick riser corners ? 

 

Kevin

s-10 front seat base.jpg

s-11 front seat base.jpg

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Moving on to Rear tub sills and seat platform. I mocked up the rear seat platform and used the bottom leg of convertible top mount steel supports to locate the elevation of the platform. Front riser was located by hole pattern in the sheetmetal pan.  The best reference photo I have seen of model 45 wood structure appears to have a slightly different proportions in the rear tub area, with an additional steel support near the rear corner, which my car does not have. The tub sheetmetal has cracked due the flexing of the upper rail joint. see photo Q5.   The final photo is after removal of the rear sheetmetal pan and added sill cross member.  The wooden sills hang outboard over the frame rails with no support for most of the length of the body. The steel bent-Y brackets behind the rear door opening has 1 bolt to the frame in this area to keep the sills from drooping .

Kevin

 

s-12 rear seat base.jpg

s-13 rear seat base.jpg

s-14 rear tub.jpg

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