Kosage Chavis

1955 Buick Century

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When you go back to the carb ignition switch, make sure to shim it correctly for starter timing. The trick is to open the carb without putting too much foot into the secondaries or pulling too much air to disrupt the choke piston. The carb ignition switch really doesn't do any favors for the car in 26 degree weather, either. Also that attachment wire on the antenna lead is actually a ground for the antenna. Kind of an interesting place for it. Good luck on finding a working power antenna. Did your car originally come with one? It's probably gunked up and just needs some cleaning. I had taken mine apart, cleaned up the armature really good with a scotchbrite pad and then lubed the worm gear and teeth so everything moved freely and it worked just like new.

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8 hours ago, Beemon said:

When you go back to the carb ignition switch, make sure to shim it correctly for starter timing. The trick is to open the carb without putting too much foot into the secondaries or pulling too much air to disrupt the choke piston. The carb ignition switch really doesn't do any favors for the car in 26 degree weather, either. Also that attachment wire on the antenna lead is actually a ground for the antenna. Kind of an interesting place for it. Good luck on finding a working power antenna. Did your car originally come with one? It's probably gunked up and just needs some cleaning. I had taken mine apart, cleaned up the armature really good with a scotchbrite pad and then lubed the worm gear and teeth so everything moved freely and it worked just like new.

The antenna that was on my car was some cheap aftermarket piece.  Not anything power.  Originally, the antenna was manual.  My wish is to go with a factory power antenna, but as you stated, they are hard to find so I am not going to hold my breath.  We shall see what happens.  Just hoping for the best.  I am sure I will have more questions dealing with the factory start up.  I greatly value your knowledge on the matter.

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Factory AC resistor, compliments of Doug.  20170112_172659.jpgAll I need now is the proper rear shelf clear ducts and scoop assemblies and my AC search is complete!

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Factory power window switches, bezels, harnesses and retainers including a power seat switch bezel.  Compliments of Mr. Lamar.20170115_135029.jpgThis now gives me the whole complete set of power window switch assemblies for my car.

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Factory power window motor set. Compliments of Mr. Lamar.20170115_141032.jpgI am thinking all that I need now are the regulators and relays to be finished with the power window assemblies.

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Are there specific relays other than the switches that are needed for window operation? 

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22 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Are there specific relays other than the switches that are needed for window operation? 

If I am not mistaken, the schematic for the power window set-up show relays.  I will have to check again.

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When I purchased a set of factory power window motors, I found that 2 of them were non-functional.  With some help from my Buick family (especially Ben), I was able to repair both and get them functioning again.  Now, I have a full set of good power window motors.  I am very pleased with how everything turned out.  I also learned and now know a little more about electrical parts than what I did before.  I have always dreaded working on electrical parts because I hated dealing with them.   Now, I am a little more confident and comfortable with working on it.  Here's some video of the repaired motors.

 

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did you have to clean out the old hard grease and regrease with new?

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1 hour ago, GARY F said:

did you have to clean out the old hard grease and regrease with new?

Yes Sir, I did.  The old grease was part of the problem so I made sure I cleaned it thoroughly before putting any new grease in it.  I posted all my progress on the "post-war" forum.  If you are curious at all, here's the link (covered between pages 3 and 4):

 

Edited by Kosage Chavis
Added verbiage (see edit history)
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Just received these small spare pieces for my power window motors.  Now I just need to find a replacement compression spring.  Compliments of Mr Willie.20170201_191408.thumb.jpg.0c3b3c92fb23e737ed3b9684ef051b14.jpg

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look for a starter, generator rebuild place for a spring. look up one of those wiper motor or window motor rebuilders and ask for spring.

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22 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Just received these small spare pieces for my power window motors.  Now I just need to find a replacement compression spring.  Compliments of Mr Willie.20170201_191408.thumb.jpg.0c3b3c92fb23e737ed3b9684ef051b14.jpg

There were 2 springs in the envelope (white)...

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1 hour ago, old-tank said:

There were 2 springs in the envelope (white)...

Just got done digging through my trashcan:wacko:.  2 compression springs...compliments of Mr Willie:rolleyes:.14860801382721535884190.thumb.jpg.0ca5d798c0b0f60b0cc3a89d02006e98.jpg

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Fridays are trash days for me, I would have been digging through the land fill. :P

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After a little bit of a lay-off, I was able to continue removals on this gorgeous day! I started with the emergency brake release assembly.20170212_142533.thumb.jpg.8a01b04c0d89216147693354ab426a99.jpgJust a look at the mounting bolts.20170212_142604.thumb.jpg.8d581d4f767a261313da938564355f20.jpgI chose to detach the emergency brake cable first.  Just remove the cotter pin and tap the cable end out from the hole.20170212_143003.thumb.jpg.f23418aa8a21576f5d6239c379c3dd46.jpgShowing the cable end detached.20170212_143236.thumb.jpg.87c9fbf6dc098d7408c5b3568e71cccb.jpgRemove both bolts that retain the emergency brake cable brace.20170212_143616.thumb.jpg.3d1031d34146d7849216c9fa1ee77a32.jpgRemove the last 2 bolts.  One of these last 2 bolts also mounts the fuse panel in place.  Make note of this.  Once the last 2 bolts are removed, the assembly will come right off.  20170212_144021.thumb.jpg.c97ef2a81829a5ff1c3eade7dd36394e.jpgThe last thing that needs to be done is to detach the emergency brake warning light wire from the fuse panel.  This wire is at the No.1 slot on the panel.20170212_144822.thumb.jpg.79445963eee59eec97e8737485ce1662.jpgShowing the emergency brake release assembly removed from car (shown in 2 pieces)20170212_144438.thumb.jpg.efb4c81b3a0bcaab18e3d12106409024.jpg20170212_144937.thumb.jpg.b8a38753dce1eedfc79b83b36373ccaf.jpgOverall, easy task.

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I couldn't figure out what to remove next, so I decided to do something quick and easy...the door ajar switches.20170212_152420.thumb.jpg.3cc276670998f10c7121bdd9ed8a00cd.jpg

Showing the rear of switch.20170212_152435.thumb.jpg.ae43b95ec012db82d082b595d3a51c6e.jpg

Just pull the connector out from switch and label.20170212_152655.thumb.jpg.b4a461bfa42ab03181837d42a822f11c.jpg

Remove 2 screws and pull switch and associated gasket from the car. Showing removal site.20170212_152903.thumb.jpg.8c6b7e1f43e504384da670882b62e4de.jpg

Showing switches outside of car.20170212_153235.thumb.jpg.bbb2fb7bcb2d9817aa9412c480d45ee9.jpg

Overall, easy task.

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1 hour ago, GARY F said:

that brake assy. is one heafty piece.

At first glance, it looks very intimidating, but it's so easy to remove.  

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Another gorgeous weekend.  After playing in the backyard with my kids,  I took some time to remove more parts from the Buick.  This time, I started with the rear window assemblies.20170219_140412.thumb.jpg.4a8b1f456a093178dca52109cdc9222b.jpgFirst, I mapped the order of removal for each nut/screw.  Most of the screws/nuts were sealed with some type of gummy substance. Just peal away with something that has a flat head until you have access.  As you can see, there are 9 total connection points for the whole assembly.20170219_145239.thumb.jpg.68b7233b794544b938723828a39291c5.jpgBe sure the window is in the closed position.  If you don't have the hand crank, a pair of plyers will do.  Just be sure to not damage the splines on the regulator.  

 

There are 2 channel guides for one assembly.  I decided to remove the smaller of the 2 guides first, which is the one farthest to the rear (the picture below is a passenger's side view).  There is 1 screw and 1 nut that holds this guide in place (labeled as 1 and 2 in the picture above).  Remove both.  Reach in the access hole and pull the guide out from inside until you clear the screw hole.  Then, pull the guide down until the guide rolls off of the rear window roller.  20170219_142746.thumb.jpg.5fe8c24f58f404d7bcebda82e7939cd5.jpgShowing the rear guide removed.20170219_142904.thumb.jpg.d2ef61a1a872c394532dca454e36e6e3.jpgNext is the last guide which is much longer.  Remove 2 screws and 1 nut (labeled as 3, 4 and 5 on the picture above).  Reach back into the access hole and pull the guide out from inside until it clears the screw hole.  Pull the guide down until it rolls off of the front window roller.  You will have to manipulate this guide a bit to remove.20170219_143609.thumb.jpg.ae892da198d21b24518368fd0866e9c8.jpgShowing the front guide removed.20170219_143654.thumb.jpg.b9d8ccaafbac52d92bc42f9c2e1b3f11.jpgWe can now remove the window.  The window is only held in place by the guide in this picture.  20170219_143746.thumb.jpg.2435c4632586549bedf59e8b02fc2776.jpgFirst, roll the window down slightly to clear the trim at the top (be sure to hold window with one hand while doing this to prevent window from falling).  Pull/push the window foward while angling a bit to clear the regulator arm roller from the center window guide.  The window is now free and can be pulled out of its slot.  You will have to angle the window in a bit before it can be pulled out completely.  Take your sweet time doing this to avoid scratching up the chrome on the window frame.  Showing the window removed.20170219_143909.thumb.jpg.e3c310032cc7aa8293165a7960505ddb.jpgFinally, I removed the regulator.  4 screws hold this in place (labeled as 6, 7, 8 and 9 in the picture above).  Remove all 4 screws while holding regulator in place.  Pull the regulator out from access hole. 20170219_144111.jpgShowing both window assemblies removed from car.20170219_161823.thumb.jpg.8da32974b9e109ed5b54dfebd1495fca.jpgOverall, easy task.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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Next up to be removed was all the window trim.20170212_155607.thumb.jpg.3ccdca23ff602f41f46cc20ddd3b1ba0.jpgI first removed the corner trim for the rear quarter window from inside the car. Just remove 3 screws (make note which screw goes in what hole, they are all different).20170212_161138.thumb.jpg.b9dfde12ee9009314c4a89d98dd79772.jpgShowing the corner trim removed.20170212_161226.thumb.jpg.9ec04e41828139049d178fa40a5eb24b.jpgNext, was the slender bottom trim piece for the rear quarter window.20170219_153631.thumb.jpg.ffb5376b36fb821d0b59ee35f198077e.jpgRemove a total of 5 screws along the length of this piece.20170219_153708.thumb.jpg.00a85fb8f7225e53fab0d7edc0ba245c.jpg On my car, more than half of these screws were too rusted to remove with a philips screwdriver.  I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut a groove into the heads of those screws and then removed the screws with a flathead screwdriver.  Once all 5 screws are removed, you will need to slide the trim piece out from the outer corner trim piece shown here.20170219_153817.thumb.jpg.ee90fe251b93b96d65acfc399ea0ef14.jpgJust wiggle it while pulling until it slides out and the part is now removed.

 

There is a rubber seal that I also removed.  Not sure if there are new replacements.  Mine was a little brittle at the edges.  So I carefully peeled off.  This rubber fits into the square notch shown at the top of the door post.

20170219_154106.thumb.jpg.6d9fa3f39b8f56540fadbca95ef9a4a5.jpgNext, I removed the trim piece for the rear quarter window mounted at the roofline.20170219_153931.thumb.jpg.584f862bdfa038231cf803f952a234ed.jpgThere are 6 screws total that mounts this trim piece.  All 6 screws are accessed inside the channel of this trim piece as shown.20170212_161618.thumb.jpg.5a197ea9508f09e9956831f506e9d33b.jpgOnce all 6 screws are removed, you will notice that this trim has an adhesive that bonds this piece to the roofline.  Simply wiggle this piece while pulling down, off the roofline.  Take your time and pull off very slowly to avoid bending. Make note that even though the outer corner trim piece shown here is separate, it will come out with the piece you are removing now.20170212_161302.thumb.jpg.59ff7c5d2e4cfad95bd9ee6eb81c4262.jpgBoth trim pieces should now be removed.  Showing the rear quarter window area after trim removals.

20170219_164750.thumb.jpg.7c29ed8b032ec957a3d20e0c2256919b.jpg

Finally, I removed the front window trim mounted to the roofline as shown (as you can tell, my daughter takes driving the Buick very seriously)!20170219_154214.thumb.jpg.f5bc51014f67f0fdb88f31b633345992.jpgAgain, you wil need to remove a total of 6 screws.  All the screws are accessed inside the channel of this trim piece as shown.20170219_154436.thumb.jpg.e79b495d0384d362835a1259c4ec843a.jpgYou will notice a special piece of rubber seal mounted on the most rear screw. Note its orientation and keep.  Keep in mind that the screw at the very front is covered by a piece of foam seal. You will need to pull this back to find the screw. Once this trim piece is removed, you will notice that there is an associated gasket sandwiched between the trim and roofline.  Keep the gasket and trim together.  Showing removal site on car.20170219_164824.thumb.jpg.0d46bc4fc8eac168992a7354af332b81.jpg Showing all the window trim removed from car.20170219_163239.thumb.jpg.1b08dd8f75ce8e7fee93a02d747aeac5.jpg  Overall, easy task.

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KC, I love your thread. Sometime between now and August I'll be getting my car painted. Look forward to your tutorial on removing the front and rear window stainless. :P

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9 hours ago, Beemon said:

KC, I love your thread. Sometime between now and August I'll be getting my car painted. Look forward to your tutorial on removing the front and rear window stainless. :P

Glad to hear that Ben!  I am happy whenever I can add any value to this Buick forum.  What color(s) are you painting your car?

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