Kosage Chavis

1955 Buick Century

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Back on the Buick again!  Made a decent amount of removals yesterday.  Started with the set of cables (5 in all) that control the air vents in the car.  Keep a note in the manner in which the cables are layed out in the car.20161211_122940.jpgAt the location of each vent, the cable is held in place at its end by a small clamp and then the wired loop is hooked onto a small shaft.  Simply loosen the clamp and then take your finger and slide the wire loop off of the shaft.  You will do this in 5 different places.  Be sure both ends of each cable is labeled.  Here at rear side of vent box...20161211_123049.jpghere at forward side of vent box...20161211_123100.jpghere at the ranco valve...20161211_123141.jpghere at passenger's side firewall vent...20161211_123239.jpgand here at driver's side firewall vent.20161211_123224.jpgFinally, just remove the small bracket secured to the firewall.  You will see this in the first picture holding 3 of the cables in place.  Showing cables removed from car.20161211_124313.jpgOverall, easy task.

Edited by Kosage Chavis
naming correction (see edit history)

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Don't even think of reusing those old cables.  I had mine duplicated at a mower repair shop.  You Ranco valve needs to be replaced or serviced...it is already seeping coolant.

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Will do Mr Willie.  When the time comes, I will duplicate the cables like you did yours.  Also, please school me.  How can you tell that the ranco valve is leaking?  Is it the discoloration on the insulation just underneath?  Finally, how does the ranco valve function?  Thank you.

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Next, I removed the wiper fluid supply hoses that "tee" off to the wiper fluid terminals.  Just remove at 3 places. Removed at passenger's side wiper fluid terminal...20161211_125338.jpghere at the driver's side wiper fluid terminal...20161211_125400.jpgand here at the tee, just before the main line penetrates the firewall.20161211_125536.jpg Showing the wiper fluid hoses removed from car.20161211_125618.jpg  Overall, easy task.

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18 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

How can you tell that the ranco valve is leaking?  Is it the discoloration on the insulation just underneath?  Finally, how does the ranco valve function?

Rust and corrosion on the unit.  The ranco valve is supposed to help maintain a constant temperature in the car...never worked any better than lesser cars without.  A $10 seal from NAPA will fix (or $100+ for send off rebuild), but it is real tedious to change.  I can give additional info when you are ready.

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8 hours ago, old-tank said:

Rust and corrosion on the unit.  The ranco valve is supposed to help maintain a constant temperature in the car...never worked any better than lesser cars without.  A $10 seal from NAPA will fix (or $100+ for send off rebuild), but it is real tedious to change.  I can give additional info when you are ready.

As always Mr Willie, I appreciate your advice and will seek you out when it's time.

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I then moved to the removal of the vent diverter box.20161211_133045.jpgRemove the 4 screws to release the capillary tube and grill.  This will also release the kick panel.  My kick panel was dry rotted and in pieces.20161211_133112.jpgShowing the kick panel removed.  Looks like the Dead Sea scrolls.20161211_134201.jpgShowing the pieces of the kick panel put together.  I will keep to template another.20161211_134055.jpgIt's not necessary to remove the duct splitter at the top of the vent diverter box, but if you choose, just remove 4 screws at its flange and pull off.20161211_134644.jpgRemove 6 bolts at the flange of the diverter box (3 on each side).  Grab a flat edge and gently pry off the diverter box at the flange.  Be sure to pry a little each time at different points at the flange to avoid warping.20161211_134852.jpgShowing diverter box area after removal.20161211_140328.jpgShowing vent diverter box assembly removed from car.20161211_140723.jpgOverall, easy task.

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Next, I removed both firewall vent grills. This is a picture of the passenger's side grill.  Just remove 4 screws.20161211_140848.jpgBelow is a picture of the driver's side grill. The bottom flap of this grill is partially secured by the steering collar seal.  In my case, the steering collar seal had already been unattached during a previous removal.  That should just leave you with 2 screws to remove and the grill should come right out.20161211_141552.jpgBelow, showing how the top screws on the steering collar seal secure the bottom flap of the grill.20161211_141605.jpgShowing both grills removed from car.20161211_142252.jpgOverall, easy task.

 

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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Went to the local junk yard today and purchased this small but important piece.  It a car jack retaining spring.  Mr Lamar says that 55's were the only year to have these.  I am thankful that I am fortunate enough to find one.20161228_133751.jpgFor those of you who are still a little unclear what this piece does...it holds down the car jack in your trunk, just between the spare tire and body of the car.

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Wow, you have taken better photo’s than I did. I may need these to put mine back together. Thanks, Mud

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4 hours ago, Mudbone said:

Wow, you have taken better photo’s than I did. I may need these to put mine back together. Thanks, Mud

Exactly the reason why I did this.  For anybody who needs it...especially myself.

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Removals continued with removal of the windlace.  Remove screw at very top with associated rubber washer.20161211_143117.jpg Remove the screw that secures the bendable tab.  This screw is only accessible when the front dash is removed (Note that at installation, you will screw this back in before installing the dash.  Once the dash is installed, you will push the windlace up against the crevis, bending the tab as a result).20161211_143107.jpgRemove the 3 bottom screws.20161211_143053.jpg Showing the windlace partially removed.20161016_172008.jpg On my car, the bottom portion of the windlace was tucked in the sheet metal of the flooring.  I just gently wiggled it loose.20161211_143135.jpgShowing both windlace outside of car.20161211_143553.jpgOverall, easy task.

 

Edited by Kosage Chavis
naming correction (see edit history)
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forgive me if I'm wrong, but I think that part is called the wind lace. This is very helpful, because I'll have to pull these off soon to have my door jams painted.

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48 minutes ago, Beemon said:

forgive me if I'm wrong, but I think that part is called the wind lace. This is very helpful, because I'll have to pull these off soon to have my door jams painted.

Thank you for the correction.  I made something up for lack of a better term. Still learning the proper terminology.

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Removal of the wiper fluid reservoir hoses came next (note that the shorter of the 2 hoses connected to a tee, that branched off to both wiper fluid terminals at the windshield.  The other connected to the actual wiper switch).20161229_133229.jpgMade sure everything was labeled.  Also, showing location of penetration from inside the car.20161229_133246.jpgDisconnected the hoses from the reservoir.20161229_133318.jpgA closer look at the firewall penetration of both these hoses from the driver's side of the engine compartment before removal.  I did have to scrape away some tar and widen the hole to allow both hoses to be pulled through without breaking.  In this case, I pulled both hoses while sitting inside the car.20161229_133327.jpgShowing both wiper fluid reservoir hoses removed from car.20161229_133723.jpgOverall, easy task.

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Next removal was another wiper fluid hose.  The end that I am holding would connect to the wiper switch.20161229_134452.jpgShowing location of firewall penetration on the passenger's side.20161229_134701.jpgShowing hose layout on the passenger's side of the engine compartment.20161229_134721.jpgShowing the firewall penetration from the engine compartment.  As you can see, a previous owner capped off one of the ends where it should have connected to the main run of this lateral tee.  I gently removed the hose that connects to the lateral branch of the tee. Again, I had to remove some tar at the penetration to allow for removal of this hose.20161229_134822.jpgShowing the wiper fluid hose removed from car.20161229_135143.jpgOverall, easy task.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)

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Removal of the wiper motor and associated cable/switch.20161229_141531.jpgThe penetration for this cable is directly beneath the penetration for the pair of wiper fluid reservoir hoses previously removed on the driver's side.20161229_141542.jpgShowing penetration of cable from engine compartment.20161229_141605.jpgShowing how the cable is routed to the wiper motor.20161229_141845.jpgTo remove the wiper motor, simply remove 1 screw on each side of the motor.  20161229_141900.jpgTo remove the cable from the motor, loosen this screw.20161229_142056.jpgOnce you loosen the screw enough, you will be able to revolve this tab until you have released the cable.  Slide the head of the wire out of the backside of its slot.20161229_142042.jpgShowing the end of the cable detached from motor.  I then pulled the whole cable out of its penetration from inside the car.20161229_142222.jpgShowing the wiper motor and associated cable/switch removed from car.  I went ahead and reattached the cable to the motor to keep as 1 assembly.20161229_143005.jpgOverall, easy task.

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Removal of antenna wire.  On my car, a previous owner replaced the factory antenna and bypassed the old antenna wire with a new one.  However, they left the factory wire in the car.  Not sure if this will be reinstalled in the car.  The plan is to purchase a factory power antenna assembly and install that.20161229_144233.jpgBoth ends of the old antenna wire were already detached.  The only thing needed to be done was to unscrew this attachment band.20161229_144301.jpgShowing the antenna wire removed from car.20161229_144441.jpgOverall, easy task.

Edited by Kosage Chavis
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Next, I removed a series of switches. This one is a 3-way blower motor switch.  Just detach 2 connectors and label.20161229_145237.jpgThis one is a 2-way blower motor switch.  Detach 2 connectors and label.20161229_145643.jpgThis was the horn botton.  This will not be reinstalled.  I plan on using the factory set-up.20161229_150414.jpgJust showing the connection between the factory wire and the aftermarket wire.20161229_150444.jpgThis is the push botton ignition on my car.  Again, this will not be reinstalled.  I plan on using the factory set-up to start the car.20161229_150721.jpgShowing all switches removed from car.20161229_150913.jpgOverall, easy task.

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Only thing I was able to do with the Buick this weekend was to knock off the snow from the top of the carport to keep the tarp from breaking through. 

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