Kosage Chavis

1955 Buick Century

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I would then move on to the most difficult of all the interior removals...the front dash.  20161016_172436.jpgI started with the set of radio braces that also brace the center of the dash in place.20161016_170032.jpgRemove the single bolt at the top of each brace and then remove both bolts on the bottoms of each brace, located at the speaker opening of the dash.20161016_170044.jpgThe passenger side brace will have a wireway attached to a clip.  Remove from clip.20161016_170548.jpgShowing radio braces removed from car. 20161016_180846.jpgOverall, easy task.

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Next would be the steering column brace.20161010_142953.jpgSimply remove both brace-to-dash mounting bolts.  Finally, remove both steering column clamp bolts.  Separate the clamp from steering column and remove the associated rubber liner.  Showing the brace removed from car.1477358875019-229800216.jpgOverall, easy task.

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Another set of dash braces need removal.  This last set of braces are mounted just above the steering column.20161016_171105.jpgEach brace is held on by 2 bolts...1 at the bottom (shown just to the outside of the hanging bolt).20161016_171021.jpgAnd then 1 at the top (of each).  Simply remove bolts in no particular order.  Showing the tubular dash braces outside of car.20161016_180837.jpgOverall, easy task.

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The speedometer is almost impossible to remove with a lot of things still in the way.  We will need to create some space by freeing the rest of the dash from the car.  The last thing that holds the front dash in place are the mounts on the very outsides of the dash.  To gain access to the outer dash mounting bolts, you will first need to partially remove the decorative strips that line the foward part of the door opening.  20161016_172008.jpgRemove screws that line these strips along this edge shown here.  20161016_172036.jpgThere is one screw that is impossible to get to, right between the body of the car and the mounting area of the outer dash to ccompletely remove strips.  On this side in the picture below, mine broke while the one on the other side is still intact.  Don't worry about this as long as you can move these strips out of the way enough to get access to these bolts.20161016_172057.jpgRemove these 3 bolts on both sides of dash.  The dash should now be free enough to move around a bit, but not enough to remove completely out of the car.  However, I now have room to remove the speedometer.  The decorative dash nameplate wil also be removed.20160925_143045.jpgUnscrew the speedometer cable and pull both light sockets from rear of housing.20160925_143129.jpgThe knob for the tripometer and associated foundation should have been detached when removing the tubular dash braces (previous post).20160925_143815.jpgTripometer cable will be removed with speedometer as one assembly.  Remove the 2 inner nuts that holds the speedometer inside the dash.  You can now pull the decorative dash nameplate from the dash.  Now, remove the last nut that retains the speedometer while holding in place.  Carefully remove speedometer aassembly.  Showing speedometer removed from car.20161016_175627.jpgNow showing the dash nameplate removed from car.20161022_203246.jpgOverall, easy task.

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So, just a few little things still need to be done before we are able to remove the whole dash.  First, pull out the signal/high beam indicator light assembly from behind the dash.20161022_165722.jpgRemove the emergency brake indicator light just below that...20161022_165733.jpgand then remove the screw that holds this wireway brace below that.20161022_165345.jpgShowing the rear of dash these last 3 items attach to.20161022_165816.jpgDecided to also remove the shift indicator to make sure it doesn't break when removing the dash.  Just remove the 2 screws and slide out from top of steering column.  Showing the shift indicator removed from car.20161016_181341.jpgOverall, all of these tasks were easy.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)

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Time to remove the front dash.20161016_172436.jpgFirst, remove screws that hold down the steering column firewall seal and pull off the firewall.  20161022_155837.jpgSeal remains on the column and will be removed at a later time.20161022_160545.jpgThe next step was to remove 4 bolts to the steering box in the engine compartment.  The idea behind this is to allow the steering wheel to drop while the steering box raises up, like a seesaw.  Well, after some time of trying to figure out which bolts to remove on the box and with time running out, I opted to abandon that step.  Too bad, it would have made things so much easier.  However, removing the steering column firewall seal gave me just enough play in the steering column.  I rested my chest on the steering wheel while planting my left foot at an angle that would allow me to push off of it.  I put all of my weight onto the steering wheel and pushed off my left foot, pushing the steering column just enough to the passenger's side, that I was able to get enough room between the column and the driver's side body and lift it up and out.  Now, showing the front dash removed from car.20161022_165215.jpgOverall, this task was difficult.  Drop the steering wheel if you can.

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10 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Drop the steering wheel if you can.

You will see as you progress that it is not that hard to remove the steering column jacket and even the whole steering gear before removing the dash.

Be careful with the triangular pad around the jacket at the floor/firewall.  Replacements are available ($$$), but yours looks like a good one.

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It's funny you should mentioned that Mr. Willie.  I was thinking to myself when I was looking for those 4 bolts that hold down the steering box, "I am probably looking right at the bolts' faces and won't even realize it until I start removals in the engine compartment.":blink:

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On October 26, 2016 at 10:53 AM, old-tank said:

You will see as you progress that it is not that hard to remove the steering column jacket and even the whole steering gear before removing the dash.

Be careful with the triangular pad around the jacket at the floor/firewall.  Replacements are available ($$$), but yours looks like a good one.

 

Like Willie said,  be careful with that triangular rubber pad, I was just looking at one one day and thinking about pulling it, and it cracked, right before my eyes. Just kidding, but they are delicate. 

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I've always wondered if there was some sort of chemical that could be applied to sort of re-moisturize/soften and bond parts like that before one removed them.........

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6 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

I've always wondered if there was some sort of chemical that could be applied to sort of re-moisturize/soften and bond parts like that before one removed them.........

 

Lanolin, maybe...?

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I'd be tempted to try and warm it up with an electric heater for a half hour immediately before removal.

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On October 28, 2016 at 8:41 PM, JohnD1956 said:

I'd be tempted to try and warm it up with an electric heater for a half hour immediately before removal.

Heat gun or in a pinch the wife's hair dryer woks too

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Didn't get anything done the past weekend in terms of removals.  Spent time with the kids, tore down an old deck and got ready for Halloween.  However, I was able to box up a few things.20161030_135516.jpgEach piece that is removed is boxed up with plenty of saved walmart plastic bags to ensure fragile parts remain safe over time.  Depending on the part, I will also add bubble wrap.  Any associated fasteners and/or miscellaneous pieces go into a labeled zip lock bag and placed in the same box.  The box is then sealed and labeled.  20161030_134616.jpgI do keep a book where I record important information on each specific box/item.  I record the given box number, date of when item was stored, what the box consist of and exactly where it is being stored.  If anything such as location of storage should change, I must update the book.  I created my own labeling system.  The label is broken into 4 parts:

 

1ST

IN: any part accessed from interior

EX: any part accessed from exterior

EC: any part accessed from engine compartment 

TR: any part accessed from trunk

UN: any part accessed from underneath the car

 

2ND

DS: any part accessed from driver's side

PS: any part accessed from passenger's side

C: any part accessed from center of car

 

3RD

F: any part accessed from front of car

R: any part accessed from rear of car

 

4TH

this contains a 4 digit number that gives the order in which each part is removed.  In the case where 1 item is an assembly that will be broken down into smaller pieces at the later time of restoration, each sub-part will be labeled with the same part number with the addition of a 3 digit number.  This 3 digit number will be given in the order of the removal from the larger assembly.

 

All boxes are placed on my shelving unit in my garage and much larger items are placed inside my locked shed.20160908_164852.jpgI do not take anything for granted.  This is my defense against losing pieces, forgetting where the part is installed at and breakage.  This process allows me to take my time and keep an organized and clean workspace.  

 

I also back up everything done on this car with plenty of pictures and video if necessary.  If you can't tell already, this forum has become my diary which is a tool also.

 

Finally, I have you all, to whom have given much advice, encouragement and in some cases, parts that I am looking for to aid in my process.  Thank God removing things from a car doesn't cost me anything, which gives me the time and money to search and purchase the accessories I need to make this car just like my Dad's/Grandad's buick.  Once the time comes for restoration and installation, I will take it one task at a time.

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Kosage, you don't have any relatives who are librarians by any chance...?  ^_^

 

Very organized disassembly and cataloging of parts.  One suggestion that I have would be to use newspaper rather than plastic as the packing material.  The paper (and cardboard box) will act as a desiccant and help keep moisture under control due to condensation, since the garage is likely not temperature controlled.

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13 hours ago, EmTee said:

Kosage, you don't have any relatives who are librarians by any chance...?  ^_^

 

Very organized disassembly and cataloging of parts.  One suggestion that I have would be to use newspaper rather than plastic as the packing material.  The paper (and cardboard box) will act as a desiccant and help keep moisture under control due to condensation, since the garage is likely not temperature controlled.

No librarians that I know of, but I will take that as a compliment.:D  I didn't even think about using newspaper instead of plastic bags.  That's a good idea and will use it.  Thank you.

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Crank pulley, compliments of Matt. 20161105_191426.jpgCrank pulley with associated crank pulley spacer, compliments of Doug.20161105_191442.jpgThis pulley and spacer will give me the 3rd groove needed to operate the AC system.  I am now just 2 steps from a complete factory AC system.  Just need the scoop assembly and set of clear ducts.

 

Also, a couple of factory light sockets, compliments of Doug.20161105_191458.jpgOne of these light sockets will serve as illumination for the ignition switch, a feature of the 54 buick, but for whatever reason, was deleted on the 55 buick.  I decided to bring it back for my car.

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Hey, glad it arrived in good shape!  That light in the key hole is a handy thing in the dark.

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No car work this weekend.  Had to build a set of steps after getting rid of the old deck.  Hope to get back to Buick oriented stuff next weekend.

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Absence makes the heart grow fonder...as another weekend passes and I cannot find the time to do one small thing with the Buick.:(  Looking foward to next weekend.

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10 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Absence makes the heart grow fonder...as another weekend passes and I cannot find the time to do one small thing with the Buick.:(  Looking foward to next weekend.

 

 

  Happens to all of us. 

 

  Ben

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So finally...I was able to do a little something on the Buick.  This little something was removing the defroster duct that is mounted to the firewall.20161126_163454.jpgThis duct is only mounted at 2 spots.  The first spot is at the driver's side end of the duct where an adjustable hose clamp and L- bracket are used for mounting.  I previously removed the hose clamp when removing the defroster terminals, so you are already half way done with removing the duct.20161126_163529.jpgThe last mount is a simple screw which is accessed inside the duct through this outlet.20161126_163538.jpgUnscrew and finally wiggle the passenger's side end of the duct off of the flex hose.  Showing the duct removed from car.20161126_163826.jpgOverall, an easy task.

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