Kosage Chavis Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 The only material item I received for Christmas, but it was one of the things that made my day. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Went to the local junk yard today and purchased this small but important piece. It a car jack retaining spring. Mr Lamar says that 55's were the only year to have these. I am thankful that I am fortunate enough to find one.For those of you who are still a little unclear what this piece does...it holds down the car jack in your trunk, just between the spare tire and body of the car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Seems like someone with time on their hands and a little skill could fabricate a close facsimile using something like this: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6151100/NDP6151100 . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 2 hours ago, EmTee said: Seems like someone with time on their hands and a little skill could fabricate a close facsimile using something like this: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6151100/NDP6151100 . Funny you brought that up. I was going to take that route until I came across the original. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Wow, you have taken better photo’s than I did. I may need these to put mine back together. Thanks, Mud 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 4 hours ago, Mudbone said: Wow, you have taken better photo’s than I did. I may need these to put mine back together. Thanks, Mud Exactly the reason why I did this. For anybody who needs it...especially myself. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Removals continued with removal of the windlace. Remove screw at very top with associated rubber washer. Remove the screw that secures the bendable tab. This screw is only accessible when the front dash is removed (Note that at installation, you will screw this back in before installing the dash. Once the dash is installed, you will push the windlace up against the crevis, bending the tab as a result).Remove the 3 bottom screws. Showing the windlace partially removed. On my car, the bottom portion of the windlace was tucked in the sheet metal of the flooring. I just gently wiggled it loose.Showing both windlace outside of car.Overall, easy task. Edited January 2, 2017 by Kosage Chavis naming correction (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 forgive me if I'm wrong, but I think that part is called the wind lace. This is very helpful, because I'll have to pull these off soon to have my door jams painted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 48 minutes ago, Beemon said: forgive me if I'm wrong, but I think that part is called the wind lace. This is very helpful, because I'll have to pull these off soon to have my door jams painted. Thank you for the correction. I made something up for lack of a better term. Still learning the proper terminology. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Removal of the wiper fluid reservoir hoses came next (note that the shorter of the 2 hoses connected to a tee, that branched off to both wiper fluid terminals at the windshield. The other connected to the actual wiper switch).Made sure everything was labeled. Also, showing location of penetration from inside the car.Disconnected the hoses from the reservoir.A closer look at the firewall penetration of both these hoses from the driver's side of the engine compartment before removal. I did have to scrape away some tar and widen the hole to allow both hoses to be pulled through without breaking. In this case, I pulled both hoses while sitting inside the car.Showing both wiper fluid reservoir hoses removed from car.Overall, easy task. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Next removal was another wiper fluid hose. The end that I am holding would connect to the wiper switch.Showing location of firewall penetration on the passenger's side.Showing hose layout on the passenger's side of the engine compartment.Showing the firewall penetration from the engine compartment. As you can see, a previous owner capped off one of the ends where it should have connected to the main run of this lateral tee. I gently removed the hose that connects to the lateral branch of the tee. Again, I had to remove some tar at the penetration to allow for removal of this hose.Showing the wiper fluid hose removed from car.Overall, easy task. Edited January 2, 2017 by Kosage Chavis (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Removal of the wiper motor and associated cable/switch.The penetration for this cable is directly beneath the penetration for the pair of wiper fluid reservoir hoses previously removed on the driver's side.Showing penetration of cable from engine compartment.Showing how the cable is routed to the wiper motor.To remove the wiper motor, simply remove 1 screw on each side of the motor. To remove the cable from the motor, loosen this screw.Once you loosen the screw enough, you will be able to revolve this tab until you have released the cable. Slide the head of the wire out of the backside of its slot.Showing the end of the cable detached from motor. I then pulled the whole cable out of its penetration from inside the car.Showing the wiper motor and associated cable/switch removed from car. I went ahead and reattached the cable to the motor to keep as 1 assembly.Overall, easy task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Removal of antenna wire. On my car, a previous owner replaced the factory antenna and bypassed the old antenna wire with a new one. However, they left the factory wire in the car. Not sure if this will be reinstalled in the car. The plan is to purchase a factory power antenna assembly and install that.Both ends of the old antenna wire were already detached. The only thing needed to be done was to unscrew this attachment band.Showing the antenna wire removed from car.Overall, easy task. Edited January 2, 2017 by Kosage Chavis Added verbiage (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Next, I removed a series of switches. This one is a 3-way blower motor switch. Just detach 2 connectors and label.This one is a 2-way blower motor switch. Detach 2 connectors and label.This was the horn botton. This will not be reinstalled. I plan on using the factory set-up.Just showing the connection between the factory wire and the aftermarket wire.This is the push botton ignition on my car. Again, this will not be reinstalled. I plan on using the factory set-up to start the car.Showing all switches removed from car.Overall, easy task. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Only thing I was able to do with the Buick this weekend was to knock off the snow from the top of the carport to keep the tarp from breaking through. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 When you go back to the carb ignition switch, make sure to shim it correctly for starter timing. The trick is to open the carb without putting too much foot into the secondaries or pulling too much air to disrupt the choke piston. The carb ignition switch really doesn't do any favors for the car in 26 degree weather, either. Also that attachment wire on the antenna lead is actually a ground for the antenna. Kind of an interesting place for it. Good luck on finding a working power antenna. Did your car originally come with one? It's probably gunked up and just needs some cleaning. I had taken mine apart, cleaned up the armature really good with a scotchbrite pad and then lubed the worm gear and teeth so everything moved freely and it worked just like new. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 8 hours ago, Beemon said: When you go back to the carb ignition switch, make sure to shim it correctly for starter timing. The trick is to open the carb without putting too much foot into the secondaries or pulling too much air to disrupt the choke piston. The carb ignition switch really doesn't do any favors for the car in 26 degree weather, either. Also that attachment wire on the antenna lead is actually a ground for the antenna. Kind of an interesting place for it. Good luck on finding a working power antenna. Did your car originally come with one? It's probably gunked up and just needs some cleaning. I had taken mine apart, cleaned up the armature really good with a scotchbrite pad and then lubed the worm gear and teeth so everything moved freely and it worked just like new. The antenna that was on my car was some cheap aftermarket piece. Not anything power. Originally, the antenna was manual. My wish is to go with a factory power antenna, but as you stated, they are hard to find so I am not going to hold my breath. We shall see what happens. Just hoping for the best. I am sure I will have more questions dealing with the factory start up. I greatly value your knowledge on the matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Factory AC resistor, compliments of Doug. All I need now is the proper rear shelf clear ducts and scoop assemblies and my AC search is complete! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Factory power window switches, bezels, harnesses and retainers including a power seat switch bezel. Compliments of Mr. Lamar.This now gives me the whole complete set of power window switch assemblies for my car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Factory power window motor set. Compliments of Mr. Lamar.I am thinking all that I need now are the regulators and relays to be finished with the power window assemblies. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Are there specific relays other than the switches that are needed for window operation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Bench test of the power window motor set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 22 minutes ago, Beemon said: Are there specific relays other than the switches that are needed for window operation? If I am not mistaken, the schematic for the power window set-up show relays. I will have to check again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 Master chassis and body parts books. Compliments of Mr. Lamar!Time to get more "Buick smart". 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 When I purchased a set of factory power window motors, I found that 2 of them were non-functional. With some help from my Buick family (especially Ben), I was able to repair both and get them functioning again. Now, I have a full set of good power window motors. I am very pleased with how everything turned out. I also learned and now know a little more about electrical parts than what I did before. I have always dreaded working on electrical parts because I hated dealing with them. Now, I am a little more confident and comfortable with working on it. Here's some video of the repaired motors. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 did you have to clean out the old hard grease and regrease with new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, GARY F said: did you have to clean out the old hard grease and regrease with new? Yes Sir, I did. The old grease was part of the problem so I made sure I cleaned it thoroughly before putting any new grease in it. I posted all my progress on the "post-war" forum. If you are curious at all, here's the link (covered between pages 3 and 4): Edited January 31, 2017 by Kosage Chavis Added verbiage (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Just received these small spare pieces for my power window motors. Now I just need to find a replacement compression spring. Compliments of Mr Willie. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 look for a starter, generator rebuild place for a spring. look up one of those wiper motor or window motor rebuilders and ask for spring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 22 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said: Just received these small spare pieces for my power window motors. Now I just need to find a replacement compression spring. Compliments of Mr Willie. There were 2 springs in the envelope (white)... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 1 hour ago, old-tank said: There were 2 springs in the envelope (white)... Just got done digging through my trashcan. 2 compression springs...compliments of Mr Willie. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Fridays are trash days for me, I would have been digging through the land fill. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 After a little bit of a lay-off, I was able to continue removals on this gorgeous day! I started with the emergency brake release assembly.Just a look at the mounting bolts.I chose to detach the emergency brake cable first. Just remove the cotter pin and tap the cable end out from the hole.Showing the cable end detached.Remove both bolts that retain the emergency brake cable brace.Remove the last 2 bolts. One of these last 2 bolts also mounts the fuse panel in place. Make note of this. Once the last 2 bolts are removed, the assembly will come right off. The last thing that needs to be done is to detach the emergency brake warning light wire from the fuse panel. This wire is at the No.1 slot on the panel.Showing the emergency brake release assembly removed from car (shown in 2 pieces)Overall, easy task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 I couldn't figure out what to remove next, so I decided to do something quick and easy...the door ajar switches. Showing the rear of switch. Just pull the connector out from switch and label. Remove 2 screws and pull switch and associated gasket from the car. Showing removal site. Showing switches outside of car. Overall, easy task. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 that brake assy. is one heafty piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 1 hour ago, GARY F said: that brake assy. is one heafty piece. At first glance, it looks very intimidating, but it's so easy to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) Another gorgeous weekend. After playing in the backyard with my kids, I took some time to remove more parts from the Buick. This time, I started with the rear window assemblies.First, I mapped the order of removal for each nut/screw. Most of the screws/nuts were sealed with some type of gummy substance. Just peal away with something that has a flat head until you have access. As you can see, there are 9 total connection points for the whole assembly.Be sure the window is in the closed position. If you don't have the hand crank, a pair of plyers will do. Just be sure to not damage the splines on the regulator. There are 2 channel guides for one assembly. I decided to remove the smaller of the 2 guides first, which is the one farthest to the rear (the picture below is a passenger's side view). There is 1 screw and 1 nut that holds this guide in place (labeled as 1 and 2 in the picture above). Remove both. Reach in the access hole and pull the guide out from inside until you clear the screw hole. Then, pull the guide down until the guide rolls off of the rear window roller. Showing the rear guide removed.Next is the last guide which is much longer. Remove 2 screws and 1 nut (labeled as 3, 4 and 5 on the picture above). Reach back into the access hole and pull the guide out from inside until it clears the screw hole. Pull the guide down until it rolls off of the front window roller. You will have to manipulate this guide a bit to remove.Showing the front guide removed.We can now remove the window. The window is only held in place by the guide in this picture. First, roll the window down slightly to clear the trim at the top (be sure to hold window with one hand while doing this to prevent window from falling). Pull/push the window foward while angling a bit to clear the regulator arm roller from the center window guide. The window is now free and can be pulled out of its slot. You will have to angle the window in a bit before it can be pulled out completely. Take your sweet time doing this to avoid scratching up the chrome on the window frame. Showing the window removed.Finally, I removed the regulator. 4 screws hold this in place (labeled as 6, 7, 8 and 9 in the picture above). Remove all 4 screws while holding regulator in place. Pull the regulator out from access hole. Showing both window assemblies removed from car.Overall, easy task. Edited February 20, 2017 by Kosage Chavis (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Next up to be removed was all the window trim.I first removed the corner trim for the rear quarter window from inside the car. Just remove 3 screws (make note which screw goes in what hole, they are all different).Showing the corner trim removed.Next, was the slender bottom trim piece for the rear quarter window.Remove a total of 5 screws along the length of this piece. On my car, more than half of these screws were too rusted to remove with a philips screwdriver. I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut a groove into the heads of those screws and then removed the screws with a flathead screwdriver. Once all 5 screws are removed, you will need to slide the trim piece out from the outer corner trim piece shown here.Just wiggle it while pulling until it slides out and the part is now removed. There is a rubber seal that I also removed. Not sure if there are new replacements. Mine was a little brittle at the edges. So I carefully peeled off. This rubber fits into the square notch shown at the top of the door post. Next, I removed the trim piece for the rear quarter window mounted at the roofline.There are 6 screws total that mounts this trim piece. All 6 screws are accessed inside the channel of this trim piece as shown.Once all 6 screws are removed, you will notice that this trim has an adhesive that bonds this piece to the roofline. Simply wiggle this piece while pulling down, off the roofline. Take your time and pull off very slowly to avoid bending. Make note that even though the outer corner trim piece shown here is separate, it will come out with the piece you are removing now.Both trim pieces should now be removed. Showing the rear quarter window area after trim removals. Finally, I removed the front window trim mounted to the roofline as shown (as you can tell, my daughter takes driving the Buick very seriously)!Again, you wil need to remove a total of 6 screws. All the screws are accessed inside the channel of this trim piece as shown.You will notice a special piece of rubber seal mounted on the most rear screw. Note its orientation and keep. Keep in mind that the screw at the very front is covered by a piece of foam seal. You will need to pull this back to find the screw. Once this trim piece is removed, you will notice that there is an associated gasket sandwiched between the trim and roofline. Keep the gasket and trim together. Showing removal site on car. Showing all the window trim removed from car. Overall, easy task. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 KC, I love your thread. Sometime between now and August I'll be getting my car painted. Look forward to your tutorial on removing the front and rear window stainless. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 9 hours ago, Beemon said: KC, I love your thread. Sometime between now and August I'll be getting my car painted. Look forward to your tutorial on removing the front and rear window stainless. Glad to hear that Ben! I am happy whenever I can add any value to this Buick forum. What color(s) are you painting your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now