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2 hours ago, Beemon said:

Hey, it looks like you have the same aftermarket mirrors as me! That's the first time I've seen that type of mirror on another Buick, I'm not alone! lol

Good to hear from you.  I am sure your mirror looks better than mine.  My mirror is actually damaged.  I will have to replace it at some point.  You take it easy.  

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On the contrary, it was heavily pitted. If it is the same mirror, you can get away with using the tri-5 mirrors as a replacement since it's a 4 1/2" bolt pattern if I recall correctly. Otherwise, to use the original Buick mirrors, you have to patch the existing holes, hope one of them matches up and then drill another hole.

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Back on the car today.  I want to remove the rest of the front dash, so I decided to remove objects that are directly attached to it...starting with the glove compartment.20160917_154547.jpgJust remove 3 screws at the hinge.20160917_154618.jpgRemoving the glove box door is actually pretty tough.  It is easier to remove when you remove the screws and dislodge the glove box liner.20160917_175841.jpgRotate door backward until it becomes free of the dash.  Showing door removed.  The lock is broken and will have to be fixed.20160917_175630.jpgGlove box liner was then removed.  I pulled it through behind the dash and then pulled down.  You will have to temporarily remove the vent cable.20160917_175902.jpgShould have a clear path to remove.  Remove very slowly to avoid tearing the liner.  In my case, mine was dry rotted and will have to be replaced.  Showing the liner removed from car.20160917_180131.jpgFinally, remove glove box light.  Remove 2 screws.20160918_140350.jpg

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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Moved to the clock next.  This was pretty easy. 20160917_165645.jpgDisconnect the the light bulb socket assembly (remove by firmly pulling out of socket) and disconnect the lead wire.  Be sure that you label everything.20160917_165759.jpgRemove 2 nuts and hold clock in place to avoid dropping.  20160917_165837.jpgPull out the clock from behind.  Showing clock removed.20160917_170225.jpg

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Started removal of the radio next.20160917_170314.jpgStart with removal of the knobs by removing center screw.20160917_170515.jpgSlide knob off and then slide secondary knob off.  This will then give you access to the retaining nuts at the face of the radio.20160917_171415.jpgBe sure to remove these nuts with a socket wrench.  Do not use plyers or a regular wrench, as this will more than likely damage this area of the turned metal dash.  As you can tell, looks like someone used plyers on these nuts already.  After, pull out the antenna plugged into the driver's side of the radio and disconnect the fused connection.  There are two bolts (bracket-to-radio) to remove.  These are located on each side of the radio towards the bottom, rear.  Be sure to hold bottom of radio in place as you remove the last bolt.20160917_172012.jpgSlowly lower the radio from behind the dash.  Set it down and you will still have 2 wires to disconnect.  One can be disconnected right away while the other requires an extra step.  To gain access to the other connection point, you will need to remove the rear backing of the whole radio unit.  To do this, just remove 2 screws from the bottom of the unit.20160917_172918.jpgPop the backing off and you will clearly see where to disconnect.  20160917_173053.jpgReinstall the unit backing and label wires.  Showing the radio removed from car.20160917_173517.jpg

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I had enough time to get one more piece out...the speaker grill for the front dash.20160917_173654.jpgThe cigarette lighter has to be removed.  Remove 2 screws at bottom of grill.  Be sure to grab the associated flanged nuts behind as well.20160917_173708.jpgThen, grab a pair of plyers and straighten the 3 locking tabs at the top of the grill.  You can only access these tabs from under and inside dash area.20160917_173945.jpgSlide grill in an upward motion to gain freedom from dash.  Showing the grill removed from car.20160917_174015.jpg

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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This weekend,  I couldn't get much done.  However, I was able to remove the terminals for the defroster.20160924_175921.jpg20160924_180156.jpgEach terminal is held on with 2 screws.  Very easy to remove.20160924_181054.jpgYou will need a stubble screwdriver for this job.  This particular terminal required something more for a tighter area.  Remove all associated flex hosing as well and just pull out.  20160925_133525.jpgShowing defroster terminals removed from car.  Could not save the flex hoses.  They were dry rotted.  I was able to begin a couple of other removals but was unable to complete.  I will post those jobs when complete.

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Once again, couldn't get much done this weekend.  I managed to remove the gage cluster assembly from the car.  20160925_140140.jpgFirst thing I did was remove both light bulbs from rear of the housing.  Just firmly pull out.  Then remove all connections.  You will have 2 screw on connectors for AMPS, 2 regular connectors for your GAS, and 1 flared nut connector for your OIL.  The TEMP line can NOT be disconnected here.  20160925_140200.jpgBe sure to not bend or twist the oil pressure line or temp line drastically.  Make slow and slight movements of either line to avoid breakage.  Remove the 3 nuts that hold the gage cluster in place.  Secure the cluster so that it will not fall.  Locate where the TEMP hard line penetrates the firewall and then move to the engine compartment.  You will now have to remove the temp bulb from the engine.  Be sure you have something to let the engine coolant spill into.  The retaining nut for the temp bulb is located just to the inside/rear of the driver's side valve cover.20161001_150350.jpgYou will need to temp remove the spring just forward of the nut.  Here's a better view of this nut.20161001_150428.jpgOnce you have GENTLY removed the nut and temp bulb, loosen the small bracket on the firewall that holds the temp line in place.  This bracket is located just below where the temp line penetrates the firewall.20161001_150258.jpgBegin to GENTLY push the hard line back into the car.  You will need to check inside the car to be sure the hard line is not kinking or bending too much.  Keep the line as straight as you can.  For about every inch or 2 you feed back into the car, check the line inside the car to readjust the line as necessary.  Patience is key here!  Once you get to the end of the hard line, you might need to remove some of the surrounding tar to widen the penetration.  Start with the nut and push throught the penetration.  I used a long flat head screwdriver to firmly push on the backside of the nut at different points until the nut is pushed all the way through.  Be sure not to let the screwdriver slip and push incrementally.  Once the nut is through, you should have enough of a cleared pathway to GENTLY push the bulb through.  Again, continue to check inside to make any readjustments.  Once the bulb is pushed through, this should free up the whole gage cluster assembly.  Showing the gage cluster assembly outside of car.  Thank God, the temp line did not break!:D20161001_154232.jpgAll in all, I would say this task is slightly difficult, depending on your level of patience.

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That temp bulb is the scariest part about doing the dash. When I had my speedometer rebuilt, I removed the gauges from the unit and left them hanging in the dash. After it was rebuilt, I went to go re-install the gauges and bent the oil and temp gauge faces, so now they stick... I've been scared to try and fix them ever since. So good on you for getting it out in one piece! It'll be easy going back in!

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Congrats on getting the temp unit out.  At this point, if you do not know that the temp unit works,  you can check the unit by emerging the bulb in some hot water.  If it does work I'd remove it from the cluster and keep it separate from everything else to avoid any accidents with it.

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I may have used the wrong word in "calibration".  What I meant was to calibrate yourself to the gauge.  By using an infrared thermometer and the same boiling pot of water, document the temperature of the water and the temperature on the gauge face, so that when you are driving you can associate a number with a gauge position.  Otherwise you'll always be guessing.  I would say to look for the position of 160*, 180* 200* and boiling point of 212*, if your temp gauge is not already maxed out by an earlier temp point. 

 

Remember, Willie says that the gauge max's out at 200.  And I have no doubt it will.  But since it is mechanical, it's liable to deviate from others.   

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So, I go out to the car last Saturday to get something done and soon after, the sky decides to fall down.  Not too long after, the ground under the carport begins to pool with water.  I had to cut things short...yet again:angry:.  However, I did get a couple of things done.  I was able to remove the vent control lever assemblies.  20160925_145743.jpgFirmly remove all 3 knobs from the levers.  Next, remove the 2 fan switches at the top of the assembly.  Each switch is retained by a decorative flat nut.  Place the end of a flathead screwdriver in one of the splines of the nut at an angle.  Gently tap the back end of the screwdriver continuously while turning the nut counterclockwise. 20160925_150720.jpgBe sure to be patient and keep the screwdriver from slipping.  Eventually, the nut will loosen enough to turn by hand.  Move the switches out of the way.  Each lever control assembly is held in place with 2 bolts accessed from behind the dash.  20160925_150623.jpgRemove those bolts and move control levers out of the way.  You will now have access to the retaining screws for the bezels for each control lever.  Remove both screws to each bezel and simply slide the bezels out from front.  Finally, you will release cables from each lever control.20160925_150449.jpgEach cable is held in place with a small bracket and small screw.  Simply loosen each screw and release the cable from it.  Then, remove the cable at the loop, from the lever assembly.  Be sure you label each cable before removal.  A shot of the entire vent lever control assembly removed from car.20161010_142123.jpg

 

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Finally...I was able to get a descent amount of time on the Buick this passing weekend.  I started with the ignition lock assembly.20161016_163145.jpgFirst thing you do is insert the car key and switch it to the OFF position.  Then, insert something long and rigid that fits in the pinhole.  I used a nail.20161016_163245.jpgYou will then push in on the spring loaded pinhole and while holding that in, turn the whole switch clockwise.  Keep in mind this clockwise turn is only a slight turn.  Slide the inner cylinder out.  Chances are that the cylinder will not slide out easily and you will have to wiggle the cylinder while pulling at the same time.  20161016_163404.jpgOnce you remove the cylinder, you will be left with the bezel.  Removal of the bezel is accomplished at the rear of the dash.  You will start with loosening 2 hex head screws, 1 at each side of the assembly.  Only one of these screws appear in the picture below.  The other screw on the far side is a bit difficult to access.20161016_161129.jpgThe screw on far side is best accessed from this opening just above the slot that is shown with the bolt still attached.  I used a 3/8 socket wrench with an extension. 20161016_163050.jpgOnce you have loosened both hex head screws, grab the rear end of assembly and twist until it becomes free from the rest of the bezel and pull out from the rear of dash.  This will now give you access to both bezel retaining screws.20161016_163854.jpgRemove both screws.  Showing part of the ignition assembly removed from car.20161016_181610.jpgThe other portion is still wired to the car with the inner cylinder reinserted.

 

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Can you post a picture of the switch that's still hanging in the car, from the front of it?  I just wanted to see the holes where the hex screws were.  I imagine these holes are actually slots which allowed you to twist the switch out? 

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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Can you post a picture of the switch that's still hanging in the car, from the front of it?  I just wanted to see the holes where the hex screws were.  I imagine these holes are actually slots which allowed you to twist the switch out? 

I will post a picture sometime in the afternoon/evening, today.

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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Can you post a picture of the switch that's still hanging in the car, from the front of it?  I just wanted to see the holes where the hex screws were.  I imagine these holes are actually slots which allowed you to twist the switch out? 

John, I have some marginal quality pictures on my website too.

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I did not know either year's switch was illuminated.  Can't say as I ever saw any light in Dad's 55 Special, and never noticed one in either my former 56 Roadmaster nor this Super.  Does not mean there wasn't any, just never saw any light emanating from there

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36 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

Just a quick off subject here... John, your 56 ignition switch will look a bit different in that it will not have the bump out for a light socket. In fact, how are the 56's ignition switch illuminated.

I had no idea that the 55 buick had an illuminated ignition switch.  Was this standard or optional?  Funny, I was wondering why Buick would design the ignition in this manner when I saw it for the first time.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:

I did not know either year's switch was illuminated.  Can't say as I ever saw any light in Dad's 55 Special, and never noticed one in either my former 56 Roadmaster nor this Super.  Does not mean there wasn't any, just never saw any light emanating from there

 

1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

I had no idea that the 55 buick had an illuminated ignition switch.  Was this standard or optional?  Funny, I was wondering why Buick would design the ignition in this manner when I saw it for the first time.

 

I think 54 was the first year, followed by 55, just not sure about 56. JD the bulb may have been blown in your dads 55 and being such a pita to get to and change can understand why it would not be on the top of anybodies to do list.

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Just for giggles, I went out to the car and wanted to see if a light socket assembly pulled from the gauge cluster assembly would fit on the ignition assembly.  It fit perfectly.  Now, I am thinking about running a dedicated light bulb to the ignition assembly.  Just need to find an extra light socket.

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Back to the removal process...I removed the light switch assembly next.20161016_154822.jpgPull the switch out on the 2nd (last) setting.20161016_154831.jpgPress and hold this spring loaded button on the backside of the switch assembly.20161016_154858.jpgWhile pressing the spring loaded button, pull the switch shaft out all the way.20161016_154938.jpgThis will give you access to the switch assembly retaining nut.20161016_154949.jpgGrab a flathead screwdriver with a wide flat head and unscrew.20161016_155201.jpgShowing part of the light switch assembly out of the car.  20161016_181638.jpgI decided to leave the wired portion of the switch on the car.  Will be removed later.  The task overall was pretty easy.

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