1955 Buick Century

[Sean Batiz]

On 4/16/2019 at 8:10 PM, lancemb said:

Look at the top of the core through the tank opening.  See if they appear to have the same number and size of tubes.  If there is a significant capacity difference you can usually tell just by doing that. 

Three things: 1st) A “Thanks” to you,  Kosage, for the detailed picture of that angle iron bracket for the PS Pump! After recently having gone through the eminse inventory of Buick parts that I have, I couldn’t recall if the headbolt with protruding stud was used for that bracket or the generator/engine mounting  bracket on the right engine bank! 2nd) To the topic of the 1954 radiator having been used in ‘55 cars: I believe this to be 100% correct, seeing as the ‘55 Buick it belongs to was made in early 1955 (even has the early run of solid valve covers, no breather/oil filler caps. Just the single cap on neck of Valley Pan). It’s serial number being, 5B2009836 from GM “BOP” South Gate, Ca. Assembly Plant. 3rd) After going through some older receipts for stuff I had repaired for my first Buick, I came across the one from back in 2002 when I had my non-A/C radiator (3131177) rebuilt; indicates it was rebuilt with a “4 core” (I previously thought that I had that shop add an additional core to it); I’d still need to de-soldier either tank of the A/C radiator (3133727) to determine the number of cores it contains. These have a baffle in the upper tank, below the fill neck that restricts a clear visual image of the cores directly. Picture is of page from my 1955 Buick Master Chassis Parts Book. Lists radiator 3131177 for both 1954 and 1955 “1st jobs”.

Edited April 21, 2019 by Sean Batiz
Misspelled name & more information inclusion. (see edit history)

[Kosage Chavis]

I didn't have much time to work on the car over the weekend, but I did manage to remove another part.  This time it was the windshield wiper arms.The driver's side was easy.  I just grasped the base of the arm and wiggled it off of its spline.The passenger's side needed a little more effort.  All you need is a block of wood and a flathead screwdriver.  Use in the manner shown in this photo and gently pry the base off.Just be sure you are not prying up the splined head and that you are only catching the edge of the base of the arm.  Showing the windshield wiper arms removed from car.Overall, an easy task.

[Kosage Chavis]

20 hours ago, Sean Batiz said:

 

Sean, I keep seeing the abbreviation "D.F." in the parts book.  Any idea what that stands for?

[old-tank]

1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

I keep seeing the abbreviation "D.F." in the parts book.  Any idea what that stands for?

D.F. -dynflow

C.T -conventional transmission

[Sean Batiz]

52 minutes ago, old-tank said:

D.F. -dynflow

C.T -conventional transmission

Thought that meant: “Driven Frequently”! Just kidding. Hey, Kosage, you may discover that by the time you finally get the body taken apart to the point where it’s ready to be removed from the Chassis, that you’ll be needing MORE STORAGE SPACE for the very many parts! At least, I sure did.

[Kosage Chavis]

3 hours ago, Sean Batiz said:

Thought that meant: “Driven Frequently”! Just kidding. Hey, Kosage, you may discover that by the time you finally get the body taken apart to the point where it’s ready to be removed from the Chassis, that you’ll be needing MORE STORAGE SPACE for the very many parts! At least, I sure did.

That would be correct Sean.  I am out of space, even with the make-over in my garage.  My wife and I have talked about building a detatched garage, but the money is not there.  I am starting to worry about the underside of the car and rust.

[Kosage Chavis]

5 hours ago, old-tank said:

D.F. -dynflow

C.T -conventional transmission

...and then the whole class said in unison..."THANK YOU MR WILLIE".

[Kosage Chavis]

I have officially run out of room for my parts.  What is shown here are parts that are just stacked in the middle of the floor.  What is complicating matters more so is that I am very close to the point of needing to remove the engine and transmission.  I need to figure something out soon.  The process has stagnated.

Edited June 10, 2019 by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)

[Smartin]

Cars grow....a lot...when they are disassembled.

[JohnD1956]

1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

What is shown here are parts that are just stacked in the middle of the floor.

 

Throw out the fishing poles.  That will give you more room...🙂

 

 

[old-tank]

4 hours ago, Smartin said:

Cars grow....a lot...when they are disassembled.

Yep, up to 4 garage stalls...or more.

[avgwarhawk]

On 6/10/2019 at 7:01 PM, Smartin said:

Cars grow....a lot...when they are disassembled.

 

Yes sir. It take an entire factory floor to assemble parts and put them together!   

[avgwarhawk]

On 6/10/2019 at 5:50 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

I have officially run out of room for my parts.  What is shown here are parts that are just stacked in the middle of the floor.  What is complicating matters more so is that I am very close to the point of needing to remove the engine and transmission.  I need to figure something out soon.  The process has stagnated.

 

 

There is always the kitchen or living room  to store the drive train until you are ready for it.    Just be clever about it and the miss'us will not  notice.

 

 

[JohnD1956]

1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:

There is always the kitchen or living room  to store the drive train until you are ready for it.  

 

But unlike the crafty solution in the picture posted, be sure to include the drip trays for the Buick parts, which seem to leak even if there is no fluid in them to leak! 🙄

 

 

[lancemb]

Any bare wall space must become shelves...

[Sean Batiz]

Yeah, considering that I live in Southern California, I figure that when we finally do get hit by the “BIG ONE” (earthquake, that is), that I’ll definitely be impaled multiple times by the numerous Buick accessories and literature that’s overflowing from these wall covered shelves and cabinets in my bedroom! If only we could figure out a feasible method of temporarily shrinking these parts during storage! I have a 2 car garage that’s literally crammed full of parts and tools, giving ZERO space for an actual car, thus far so, I know how you feel! My poor Ol’ Buick’s have to remain stored in my back field, under tarps, for now.

[Kosage Chavis]

4 hours ago, Sean Batiz said:

 

 

21 hours ago, lancemb said:

 

 

On 6/14/2019 at 11:17 AM, JohnD1956 said:

 

 

On 6/14/2019 at 9:49 AM, avgwarhawk said:

 

 

On 6/10/2019 at 11:39 PM, old-tank said:

 

 

On 6/10/2019 at 7:01 PM, Smartin said:

 

Do not shed a tear for me my Buick Brethren!  Time to adapt...somehow.

[Kosage Chavis]

 I got this in the mail yesterday.  It was a box of power seat parts, including a set of adjuster legs. I was very happy with how much they were in good shape.  Power seat parts...compliments of Marcin in Poland!

[EmTee]

Old Buick parts from Poland?!?  Now I have heard everything! 

[Sean Batiz]

Next, we’ll be reading that you’ve obtained a NOS/NIB 55 Buick Century headliner from the Antarctic! Our world 🌎 seems to be shrinking! There’s possibly plenty of old stock  R-12 refrigerant for your A/C system, available from Cambodia! Lol

[Fr. Buick]

I've been sending '54 parts to a guy in Poland, who is doing amazing work for a Swedish client.

 

Do whatever it takes!

[Kosage Chavis]

Yesterday, I found a little time to remove something else off of the Buick.  I chose to remove the windshield wiper transmission assembly.  I had a problem removing the slotted screw head without damaging it.  So, I decided to fashion my own tool to easily remove it safely.  I had some spare galvanized steel pipe laying around.I cut about 2 inches of pipe and grinded both sides down till flat and parallel.  I then took the wire brush wheel and smoothed the surfaces to remove any sharp edges.  I placed the piece over top of the slotted screw and centered it.  I then took a sharpie and marked the exact locations of the slots while making my marks the same thickness of the slots.The inside diameter of the pipe was slightly larger than the splined knob on the wiper assembly and fit perfectly on top of the slotted screw.  I took a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and a table grinder to grind down everything around the marks I made.  I had to try-and-tweek the socket a few times to get the perfect fit inside and on top of those slots.  Once this was achieved, I ran those those newly cut surfaces against the wire wheel to remove sharp edges.  I then grinded 2 flats on the other side of the tool.I was able to make the flats parallel and true enough to get an 18mm wrench over it snugly.  Once this was achieved, I again ran the wire brush wheel over the new surfaces.  I tried the new tool out and it worked perfectly.  No slippage or anything.Now, I have a tool for life.

Edited June 25, 2019 by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)

[Kosage Chavis]

...so as I was saying, I removed the windshield wiper transmission assembly.  First, I removed the slotted screw.Move to the inside of the car and remove both nuts and washers that hold down the brace shown here.Pull brace off the threads, pull down and angle out.There are 2 separate cables that are linked to the center transmission.  I labeled both to note their position in respect to the 4 slots shown here.I then simultaneously gently tapped the front of one transmission while grasping and slightly wiggling the rear until it separates.Be sure not to pull the capillary tubing.  Once you feel separation, pull the back end out completely and then carefully pull the front portion out.  You might have to angle out to get free from the screen.You can now unhook both cables from the center transmission.  Repeat these steps on the other side.  After pulling both sides, you are now left with the center transmission.  Simply unscrew both screws on both sides shown here. Once screws are removed, tap the center of the transmission from the inside of the car till the seal is broken.  You'll need to pull and angle the transmission out of its penetration from the outside.The whole assembly is now removed.Showing the whole assembly removed. Overall, it was a moderately easy task.

 

Edited June 25, 2019 by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)

[Kosage Chavis]

My space issue has been resolved...at least for now.  I had to do some spring cleaning and rearranging in the attic.  I then transferred car parts that I assumed would be safe in the attic, from the garage to the attic.  Not only is the garage floor clear, but I also cleared space on the shelving unit.  I can now resume removals.  So, I was looking over the Buick to see what would be next to remove and noticed my windshield had a tint at the top.Never noticed that before.  So I got curious and looked for thr EZ Eye stamp and confirmed it.I have had this car for 7 years now and never had a clue that I had this option on the car.  Unfortunately, the windshield is damaged.  Looks like it was hit with a few rocks and it also has a 3 inch hairline crack.  I just thought it'd be cool to at least share.

[Kosage Chavis]

After much avoidance, I finally decided to remove the front windshield trim and fresh air intake grill.First, remove the chrome clip at the bottom-center part of the assembly shown here. Pull up on the clip from behind with a probe until the clip clears the trim.  Be careful not to scratch the surfaces  of the trim.  Once clear, pull clip away from assembly and remove.  This will reveal a center screw as shown.Remove this screw and this will release one end of both of your bottom trim pieces.  Next, you will pull out the other end of the bottom trim from this joint shown here.To do this, grab this part of the trim at the front of the bend as seen here.Wiggle the trim up and down while pulling foward on the trim just until it slides out of the joint, as seen here.The bottom trim is still held by one more retainer.  You will need to slide the trim off of this retainer by pulling the trim to the outside of the car, as seen here.Repeat these steps for the bottom trim on the opposite side.  Once both pieces of bottom trim are removed, this will free up your ability to remove the fresh air intake grills.Remove the 1 screw at each penetration shown here.And then remove 1 screw at each end of the grill assembly as shown here.Once all 4 screws are removed, the grill assembly should lift up out of the car in 3 pieces.  Removing the grill should expose a few pieces of weatherstrip shown here.  Remove those.You can now move onto the side piece trim shown here.Remove the screw that retains the bottom end of the side piece trim as shown here.Then, remove both screws shown here.You will then slide the side piece trim from the joint at the top.  You will seperate by wiggling the trim while pulling to the outside of the car as shown here.Repeat these steps for the opposite side.  Removal of the side piece trim should now expose retainers for top piece trim as shown here (both sides).Remove both screws.  

 

***DISCLAIMER***

 

Going foward, I am not entirely sure of the proper way to remove the top piece trim.  Maybe one of the guys on here can add their expertise on removing the top piece trim properly.  This was a trail and error situation for me.  On the backside of the top piece trim, there is a flange with a small lip that is centered on about 75% of the overall trim piece.  On the rubber windshield gasket just underneath this trim, there is a slot that is moulded in it.  That flange on the backside of the trim is actually pushed into and retained by the slot in the rubber windshield gasket and has a very sturdy hold on the top piece trim.   One option (in hindsight) is to pry the trim out of the slotted windshield gasket.  However, the grip was so strong, I didn't choose this option for fear of bending and damaging the trim.  Another option would be to cut the windshield gasket at 2 spots, just to the outside of the trim, until totally separated from the rest of the gasket.  You could then (while inside the car) push this portion of the gasket with trim out from the windshield and frame.  I didn't even think of this before removing and I went with a 3rd option, which was to slide the trim to the outside of the car till it's free from the gasket.  I took a wooden block and a rubber mallet and tapped on one end of the trim until it can slide down no further.  I then went to the side of the trim in the direction it was being pulled out and I had to lift the end of the trim just enough to clear the flange over top of the outer part of the windshield gasket (which was extremely difficult).  Once cleared, carefully pull the trim out as shown here.Here is a picture showing the flange behind the trim and the slot in the gasket.Here's another picture of the slot in the gasket. Finally, remove the 5 retainers left behind that are mounted at the bottom of the window frame.  Center retainer...2 like this...and then 2 like this.Showing the front windshield trim and fresh air intake grill assembly removed from car.Overall, a challenging task.

[old-tank]

...or follow the procedure in the Body Manual!  The top piece is ALWAYS installed and removed with the windshield.

[Sean Batiz]

Looks like you’v been busy with the task that really tries one’ patients! I likewise, had very similar frustrations with this same task and did not refer to the Body Manual as per Old Tanks’ comment due to the fact that at that time, I wagered it wouldn’t have helped much because of the fact that the rubber windshield seal on my 55 Buick was basically petrified, rock hard rubber! Had to gradually crumble the seal away to free this piece of trim and the windshield itself, which later got smashed by a tree branch falling in heavy wind!!! 😤

[Kosage Chavis]

Also removed the front windshield.  Mr Willie let me know that I got a little ahead of myself when removing the front windshield trim.  The top piece trim is removed with the front windshield and associated gasket seal.  So, I will pretend that is where we are starting from here.  Here is a photo of what is being removed...front windshield, gasket and top piece trim.Grab a putty knife and untuck the top part of the gasket with top piece trim still attached.Once you've untucked and popped out  the top and sides of the gasket, you can probably safely pull the top piece trim from the gasket.  The windshield should be dislodged enough to pull from the front.Now you can lift the windshield up and out.  Remove any gasket left behind.Showing site after removal.Overall, easy task.

[Kosage Chavis]

Removed the horn ring assembly today.First, place a socket over the decorative horn retainer and twist off.Be careful, this part is spring loaded.  The threaded retainer will come out along with larger plastic washer, metal washer and smaller plastic washer.Remove spring.And then remove the nut.Once nut is removed, the cupped washer and horn ring can be pulled out.Showing area of removal.Showing the removed horn ring assembly in order.Overall, easy task.

 

Edited August 6, 2019 by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)

[dei]

18 minutes ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Overall, easy task.

 

Do yourself a big favour and keep this photo handy when you finally get back to putting things together.

Those nylon gaskets are there for a reason. (ask me how I know...)

[Kosage Chavis]

2 hours ago, dei said:

 

Do yourself a big favour and keep this photo handy when you finally get back to putting things together.

Those nylon gaskets are there for a reason. (ask me how I know...)

Yes Sir.  Please school me Mr Dei on those nylon gaskets.

[dei]

As you have laid out the parts,use that as your guide to putting it back together.

 

I did not do what you are doing, documenting details and after looking through the box of loose parts forgot which order those gaskets went in. That is critical to insulate the horn wire when at rest (not using it). 

After more than a few times putting it together and having the horn blowing constantly I referred to the chassis service manual which wasn't a big help either. (no exploded view)

Fortunately I had the Limited together still so spent time taking her horn apart to get the correct order of parts together.

 

That process (short of have good pictures) actually was a good thing as part of my horn problem on the Special was that the washer on the wire coming up through the steering column was worn badly which was my original problem having the horn blow when making a turn. 

 

I was away from the taken apart horn parts for two weeks before reassembly and knowing you are likely going to be away from yours more than that, hence my noting you keep that picture of the order handy for down the road.

 

Keep posting. There are things you show that I'm sure will aide others with the same year.

[Kosage Chavis]

3 hours ago, dei said:

Keep posting. There are things you show that I'm sure will aide others with the same year.

Thank you for that anecdote Mr Dei.  This forum is my diary.  I try to be as detailed as possible for many reasons.  Obviously to help me when it comes time to reassemble this car and to help others who aren't experts on these types of cars, but are intimidated with working on one.  Thank you for your encouragement Sir!

[JohnD1956]

7 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Thank you for that anecdote Mr Dei.  This forum is my diary.  I try to be as detailed as possible for many reasons.  Obviously to help me when it comes time to reassemble this car and to help others who aren't experts on these types of cars, but are intimidated with working on one.  Thank you for your encouragement Sir!

While I enjoy learning how you've disassembled this car, I do hope you have a backup to this diary. This site has been hacked in the past and several members have lost older content. I notice some of my older posts no longer contain actual photos posted, which appears to be related to the various upgrades to this site software.  So a backup plan is essential if your reassembly plans are still a few years into the future.

 

But please keep posting your activities.  It has shown me more than a few things I've wanted to learn.

Respectfully submitted' 

[RivNut]

2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

While I enjoy learning how you've disassembled this car, I do hope you have a backup to this diary. This site has been hacked in the past and several members have lost older content. I notice some of my older posts no longer contain actual photos posted, which appears to be related to the various upgrades to this site software.  So a backup plan is essential if your reassembly plans are still a few years into the future.

 

But please keep posting your activities.  It has shown me more than a few things I've wanted to learn.

Respectfully submitted' 

X2

 

Had to repost a photo last week for someone.  The old post was found but no picture with it.

[old-tank]

3 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

While I enjoy learning how you've disassembled this car, I do hope you have a backup to this diary. This site has been hacked in the past and several members have lost older content. I notice some of my older posts no longer contain actual photos posted, which appears to be related to the various upgrades to this site software.  So a backup plan is essential if your reassembly plans are still a few years into the future.

 

But please keep posting your activities.  It has shown me more than a few things I've wanted to learn.

Respectfully submitted' 

Or just hurry up and put it back together. 

[Kosage Chavis]

11 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

While I enjoy learning how you've disassembled this car, I do hope you have a backup to this diary.

 

9 hours ago, RivNut said:

X2

 

Had to repost a photo last week for someone.  The old post was found but no picture with it.

Yes Sir.  I have a place on my computer that I store all of my pictures and I have a book that helps me inventory everything.  I think this will suffice if something went wrong.

8 hours ago, old-tank said:

Or just hurry up and put it back together. 

(In my stereotyped scottish accent)  I CAN'T GO ANY FASTER CAPTAIN!

[Sean Batiz]

White Star Line ship builders was at one point, a very prestigious Scottish company but, we all know what happened when the Scots rushed a project, don’t we? 🚢 

[RivNut]

Anything like the rush job the Scot, David Dunbar Buick, did in the development of his car company?

[Kosage Chavis]

Both my Son and Daughter decide to keep me company while I mess with the Buick.  This is the second time that I allow my Son inside the car seeing that he is old enough to watch out for certain things.As my kids took turns pretending to drive the car, I removed the rear window trim.First, I removed the most bottom piece of trim.  There are 9 nuts that hold this trim in place.  If your back seat hasn't been removed already, you will need to go through the trunk to access these nuts.  I was able to remove from the inside of the car.  5 of those nuts are inside a set of holes as shown.You will then have a set of 2 nuts on each side of the car as shown.Once all 9 nuts are removed, you can pull the bottom piece trim from the assembly.The removal of the bottom piece trim will now expose the mounting screws for the inner bottom piece trim.The inner bottom piece trim is made up of 2 pieces of trim.  There should be 4 screws on each side.Half of these screws on mine were too rusty to remove normally.  So, I took a dremel cutting wheel and either cut slots into the screw heads (to remove later with a flathead screwdriver) or just grinded off as much of the head as possible without damaging any surfaces.  Once inner bottom trim is removed, remove side piece trim.There is a single nut holding this piece of trim in place.  You'll find it inside of the car somewhat covered by the window gasket as shown.Remove this nut and then very carefully and slowly pull out the trim using a putty knife.  Work one end to another.Repeat steps on other side.  Once both side piece trim are removed, use the putty knife to remove top piece trim.Be sure to pull out and not pull up on the trim.  Start on one end and slowly work your way to the other end until free.  Showing the area after removal.Showing the rear window trim assembly. Overall, a moderate task.