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Well, if I can figure out how to load pictures from my iPad I will load the results from my year long, 2000+ hour build of the 1910 Buick Bug race car.  The build was the main reason I quit posting, I was spending to much time on line, and needed to focus on the Bug.

 

It is on display in a ADVENTURES IN WOOD contest/show at present, hoping to win the show for the third time in a  row.

 

The all wood model is a 1/4th scale, 36" long piece.  Made from a reclaimed picnic table, but I promise you that you will swear it is metal. 

 

Dave Langdon, AKA davesbuicks lives in the Flint, Mi area, and is in the loop with the folks at Sloan/Buick Gallery, he supplied me with dozens of photo's and measurements of the actual car, it is on display there.  Thank You Dave.

 

Dale in Indy

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

  OK , folks, don't hold your breath for the video. I have so far be unable to get it to load..  

 

  But I have been driving it some. Two weeks ago, as posted in Raise your hand#####,  I drove about 150 miles.

 Today another 40 or so. I do believe it is getting stronger each time.   Took a picture out at one of our lakes.145.thumb.jpg.d15bb59e209047e2fde8565066319cca.jpg

 

  Ben

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  • 3 weeks later...

COLOR ME HAPPY!   Received the new chip for the ECM today. And, boy, did it awaken the beast. No lean back firing. No hesitation at take off . Pulling strong at 4500 RPM, and wants to go more. I am chicken.   For Dale and JohnD, it WILL lite up the tires. Had no one with me to get a video. Will some day soon. For now just DRIVE.

:):):)

 

  Ben

  

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  • 1 month later...

 

  Declaring success, for now, with the AC.  The compressor mount is shown earlier in this thread.  Fiddled with the two groove water pump pulley until I am satisfied. Not perfect, but acceptable.

 

   The   Mark IV Monitor , original and unused, had a boo boo. Had a hole in one of the U bends in the coil. One of the screws attaching the cover to the unit had been screwed into the tubing. At the factory! in the 1950's or 1960's!  After having the coil repair done at the old time radiator shop here in town, I relocated the screw 1/2 inch to the right upon assembly. Problem solved.

 

  Used angle brackets, 2 inch, cut to fit and drilled as needed for mounting brackets for the Mark IV.Drilled two holes for the brackets in the dash lip.  Ran the drain through a hole drilled in the transmission hump . Condensation is pretty clean water, so not worried about it getting on the transmission. Might even help cool the darn thing. 

 

  Hoses and nipples purchased locally from an Air condition/Glass shop. I did not use bulkheads for the hoses at the cowl and the panels at the radiator. I decided the money was too much. And the opportunity for leaks far greater. Instead, used grommets from Vintage Air that came with the condenser and compressor. Perhaps not as pretty but just as effective.

 

  Now for the GOOD part. Using the same thermometer for all measurements, arrived at the following:   Today's air temp was/is 101 degrees.  Evaporator temp =42 degrees.  Interior temp, after a half hour of mixed driving, was 70 degrees. This with blower not on high and thermostat reduced from max a bit. Engine coolant never reached the H on the gauge. While driving, fast and normal, it was right in the center. Running a 195 degree thermostat.  At one point, circumstances conspired to put me into the "parade" mode. Behind a striping crew on the highway for a ways. Temp climbed to the high side of the normal bar, and held. 

 

  So on a 100 degree day, in NO Texas, I was able to turn the AC controls to less than maximum cool, and maintain 70 degrees in a BLACK Buick.  Happy.

 

  Ben

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Congrats on yet another upgrade to that wonderful old '50 Ben, I'm sure it will make the trip to Denver most comfortable.

 

would be interested in seeing some pictures. 

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  • 5 months later...

   Well, folks, overall I have been happy with my "hot rod" Buick. Drove to Dallas and back in Nov.  19 mpg!   That was nice.  

 

 Couple days ago , the honeymoon stumbled. Hopefully not too bad. I just do not know yet.   I needed to add a little oil to the crankcase. When the oil filler cap was removed from the Valve/rocker assembly cover, I was shocked.  There was that NASTY oil/water emulsion on it. Promptly removed the valve cover. The inside of it was covered, about 1/4 inch deep, with the emulsion crap.  The valve train and top of the head are perfectly clean. Oil is still clean.      Pulled the oil pan plug, expecting water. NADA. Drained about a pint. Just clean oil.  Radiator was a little low. Brought the level up to cold mark, re installed the valve cover and------- blew coolant out the overflow pipe.   With a coolant system tester, checked the system for leaks.  Held 10 lb pressure for 30 min.  System operates to 7lb.  With cap off, started engine.  Promptly pushed water out the filler opening.       Next, ran compression check, all plugs removed [ they all look good ] , throttle tied open.  165-180 lb. Rather see them closer, but the adapter was just hand tight.  This is good enough to indicate to me the pistons/rings and valves are probably OK.  

 

  I will probably pull the side cover this week. If I find nothing, then the head.  But there is a niggling voice in my head saying I am overlooking or missing something.  If no water in the pan, how can there be a crack in water jacket to oil?  If a crack putting combustion gasses into coolant, why is coolant clean?  And the valve cover yucky?   Just seems as if I might be missing something.

 

  Engine running good. Smoothe. No missises as far as I can tell.

 

  Any input from Straight eight folks will be appreciated.  Well, anyone, really.

 

  Thanks for listening

 

  Ben

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1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Oil fill cap?  Is it a breather too?

Check the draft tube and components.

Most coolant leaks that showed up as emulsion inside the valve cover showed same at the draft tube.

 

 Yes, it is.  

draft tube connects to the pushrod -side cover. That will be coming of shortly.

 

  Ben

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9 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

Odd that the valve train is clean and just the valve cover is coated.  Could this be a head bolt that is missing sealer? Or a Rocker arm bolt missing sealer?

 

 Perhaps. Will check that out. But coolant system pressure check was good

 

  Ben

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  • 1 month later...

Well, no joy with George.  The coolant in the oil finally became bad enough to admit something is wrong.  Pulled the head and discovered a crack in the cyl wall in #6. 

  I skipped a step when building the engine, and it has come back and bitten me in the caboose.  I did not sonic test the block to determine a safe bore. The H.A.M.B. folks all said one should always do so on an unknown engine. But, this is a BUICK, says I.  Didn't matter.  The 85mm bore turned out to be on the ragged edge. To close for #6.   I bought a portable sonic thickness tester.  It does look like there is enough meat for a sleeve. If so, that is the way we will go. 

 

  In the process of pulling the engine. Just a few more bolts and it can be pulled. 

 

  More later.

 

  Ben

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Well Ben , add my sympathy and condolences to the sentiments that we , your friends here , feel for you. Knowing your great capabilities , I am sure you will get it right. And I hope you get to make the great 'Round the U.S.A. roadtrip of your dreams. Even if you do it piece by piece. Stay healthy , man !    - Cadillac Carl 

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On 3/6/2018 at 1:46 AM, C Carl said:

Well Ben , add my sympathy and condolences to the sentiments that we , your friends here , feel for you. Knowing your great capabilities , I am sure you will get it right. And I hope you get to make the great 'Round the U.S.A. roadtrip of your dreams. Even if you do it piece by piece. Stay healthy , man !    - Cadillac Carl 

 

 

What he said.....  Sorry to hear this Ben, wish I could help, but all I could offer would be maybe a 322 cubic inch Eight in a V formation . and hey, this IS the Modified forum....it's at Buick Gardens if you want it and we'll leave the lights on.

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Thanks, guys.

  The engine is completely disassembled. Took the block to the machine shop. It does look like it can be sleeved. If a sleeve can be found!  All in stock sleeves are for short stroke engines and are an inch or so too short.  WE WILL PREVAIL.

  Probably be a couple weeks before I can assemble the engine.  Lots of clean up. I will reseal the transmission. Torque bell at transmission leaking. I fixed it once, just not good enough.  Try again.

 

  Ben

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Ben, 'hope it will work with a sleeve.....,your 85mm bore is one mm more than mine at my 263 ...and i for myself ,thought i was at the Limit..??

Had read many about it,years ago in the TeamBuick about too thin wall at too much overbore...

 

Wish you good Luck.

 

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If you can't find a sleeve, there's always JB weld.

 

Worst case scenario, you could have one spun on a lathe but that's probably big $$$. Hope all goes well, I'm still looking forward to this car ripping up the road at peak efficiency! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, Carl, thanks for asking. 

  Family matters and slow progress have precluded much posting.  The sleeve arrived Fri and went to the machine shop yesterday. Hopefully on the way.

 I have to get this thing running so as to make the circle I want. Coming by your place. Be ready.

 

  Ben

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8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Circle?

 

 Kinda sorta. If the stars and planets align while I am a spring chicken, a dream is to circle the lower 48 as near the coasts and borders as practical. As in dropping south to the gulf/Mexico junction and head west. Or east, depending on the season.  Circle all the way back to starting point, touching all four extreme corners.    Probably a fantasy, really.  Fifteen years ago sounded doable and fun.

 

  Ben

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Oh OK, just so Buick Gardens is considered “near the coast “ enough for a week or so stopover. Boy what trouble we could get into....

and you’ll be pulling the lil slope back too, I presume. 

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1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

Oh OK, just so Buick Gardens is considered “near the coast “ enough for a week or so stopover. Boy what trouble we could get into....

and you’ll be pulling the lil slope back too, I presume. 

 

 Maybe go that way to the gulf.  Yep on the tear drop.  

 

  Ben

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UPDATE!

 

  The sleeve is in.   Cam installed. Crank installed and torqued.  Pistons/rods installed and torqued.

 

  We offset the sleeve a little towards the thicker wall. The "thin" back wall is now almost as thick as the front thick wall.  Happy with that.

 

  Hope to have it all back together in a couple weeks. Will reseal the torque ball while things are apart. The repair from 2009 never completely stopped. Better luck this time I hope.

 

  Ben

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