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Modified 263 for my 1950 41D


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Finally , I am back!!

   The call I was waiting for came. Your STUFF is ready.   So drove the Buick to the machine shop and picked up the head and "rotating assembly".   Don't you like that phrase?   

 

  Installed the cam this morning. Plugged the main oil galley ends.

 

The holes for the full flow oil filter.   If one is familiar with the straight eight, this is self explanatory.    If not, indulge me.   The bottom hole is drilled into the oil pump discharge line feeding the oil galley.   The discharge line has been plugged between the holes.   The top hole returns the oil to the oil galley.  The filter will be remotely mounted.  Somewhere!!  

 

263 build 003.JPGA

 

 A couple pictures of the cam installed.263 build 005.JPG263 build 006.JPG263 build 007.JPG

 

 How about one of the head?  Like the man said, the best part is hidden beneath the valves. Late model Ch###y valves cut down with performance rated springs and keepers.  Passage ways cleaned up some.  Dave, the machinist who owns D&L Performance Machine, said the head will handle more cam than I have.  Hoping the money was well spent.263 build 019.JPG

 

  And the crank.263 build 025.JPG

 

  Now the fun BEGINS!  

 

  Stick around.

 

  Ben 

263 build 012.JPG

Edited by First Born (see edit history)
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On 7/13/2016 at 4:17 PM, First Born said:

Finally , I am back!!

   The call I was waiting for came. Your STUFF is ready.   So drove the Buick to the machine shop and picked up the head and "rotating assembly".   Don't you like that phrase?   

 

  Installed the cam this morning. Plugged the main oil galley ends.

 

The holes for the full flow oil filter.   If one is familiar with the straight eight, this is self explanatory.    If not, indulge me.   The bottom hole is drilled into the oil pump discharge line feeding the oil galley.   The discharge line has been plugged between the holes.   The top hole returns the oil to the oil galley.  The filter will be remotely mounted.  Somewhere!!  

 

263 build 003.JPGA

 

 A couple pictures of the cam installed.263 build 005.JPG263 build 006.JPG263 build 007.JPG

 

 How about one of the head?  Like the man said, the best part is hidden beneath the valves. Late model Ch###y valves cut down with performance rated springs and keepers.  Passage ways cleaned up some.  Dave, the machinist who owns D&L Performance Machine, said the head will handle more cam than I have.  Hoping the money was well spent.263 build 019.JPG

 

  And the crank.263 build 025.JPG

 

  Now the fun BEGINS!  

 

  Stick around.

 

  Ben 

263 build 012.JPG

Hey Ben

         Really am enjoying the pix and explanations of your project. I do have a question. Did you neutral balance the rotating assembly with the flywheel? Just curious how a strait 8 gets balanced. If so no more worries about lining up flywheel and crank. All that freshened-up iron sure is pretty. Thanx for letting us see what ur up to!

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Greg, to be honest, I don't know.  The machinist I used builds performance engines as well, so just asked him to balance. 

 

  But either way, still is a concern on how they are mated due to the timing mark.  I will have a timing mark on the crank pulley.  My old eyes have difficult time finding the mark in the flywheel housing "window".  But I will install it so the mark on the flywheel is in the right place. And he did mark the flywheel and crank with punch marks to accomplish same.

 

  Having said all that and answering Gregs question, I will proceed.   Friday Afternoon found my oldest son at my door, on his way to Colorado for a Monday morning pickup from a museum.  He found me in the garage, so we carried on.   The crank was in, not torqued.  I had  married the rods, pins and pistons and torqued the pin pinch bolts. So we installed the rings!!  Did not break a one.  Then decided still time enough to install piston assemblies in the block.  NOW we broke a ring!!!!   I did not have the ring compressor tightened properly and a ring hung up on the top of the block. A sledge hammer blow to the top of the piston did not make it go into the bore!!  Well, not really a sledge hammer, but you get the picture.   Learned from that one and the seven remaining sets went right in.   Time for supper.

 

   Saturday morning we tried to locate another ring. Arias Pistons are not open Sat.  We had no luck finding a ring.  So, we torqued the main caps and rod caps.  I am marking each bolt/nut with a dab of white paint as it is torqued.

 

   That is as far as we got. The replacement ring is on the way from Arias. Be here later this week. I will get a few more pictures loaded up and on here later.

 

  Ben

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  • 2 weeks later...

  Well, been awhile.  Took a little trip to the mountains in NM to cool of.  Woke up Tuesday morning to 50 deg. Back home Wed noon to 98. 

 

  I now have all the piston assemblies installed. Next is the timing gear and chain.  I have made an Executive decision to use the original. I had to return and get a replacement sprocket due to bad casting. The replacement has problems as well. The oil holes are not drilled completely.  Re-checked the original and play is well within the specs in the shop manual. Manual indicates 1/2 to 3/4 inch outward movement when NEW. Replacement when 1 inch. Mine is just under 3/4 inch. Still within new specs.  Looks better ,too.

 

  Ben

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 I don't want to be wrong about things like this, but I have to agree with you. It sounds like you will be better off with the originals, than some questionable repro parts. I very recently had to change the timing gears on my '69 Electra, and it turns out that they had been replaced before, but the finish on those parts wasn't very good, and I had a broken tooth, so I don't know if that had something to do with it, or not. Long story on that, won't bore you, besides, this is your thread, not mine!

 I have had other troubles with newer repro parts too.

 Can't wait till you get it running!

 Keith

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  • 3 weeks later...

 Well golly gee, been a while.  Lot going on. I promised some pictures, but the computer operator is having difficulties along those lines.    So an update will have to do for now. Don't worry, the pics are here, just get frustrated trying to bring them to the forum.

 

  Dale, to answer a question from some time back, the crank weighs 90#.

 

  Engine is completely assembled. I checked the bearing clearances and all were in spec. I checked the piston clearances and all were in spec.  Filed rings to proper clearance before installing on pistons.  Installed the head and torqued to spec. On bearings, as they were torqued , daubed a little white paint on each bolt,nut. Same with oil pump.

 

  I bought a new pressure plate and clutch. The one for a '95 Jeep Cherokee fits perfectly. Installed  fly wheel housing, then fly wheel, THEN back main cap. Bolted on the clutch and pressure plate.

 

  Installed head and torqued to spec. Installed rocker arm, lifters and push rods.  Then adjusted rockers,lifters per shop manual. All this over the last two weeks, an hour now and again.

 

  Today, installed the oil pan. Installed timing chain cover after torquing the cam sprocket. Valve cover and push rod cover are next, after i finish cleaning.

 

   Looks like an engine again.

 

  Ben

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9 hours ago, First Born said:

 Well golly gee, been a while.  Lot going on. I promised some pictures, but the computer operator is having difficulties along those lines.    So an update will have to do for now. Don't worry, the pics are here, just get frustrated trying to bring them to the forum.

 

  Dale, to answer a question from some time back, the crank weighs 90#.

 

  Engine is completely assembled. I checked the bearing clearances and all were in spec. I checked the piston clearances and all were in spec.  Filed rings to proper clearance before installing on pistons.  Installed the head and torqued to spec. On bearings, as they were torqued , daubed a little white paint on each bolt,nut. Same with oil pump.

 

  I bought a new pressure plate and clutch. The one for a '95 Jeep Cherokee fits perfectly. Installed  fly wheel housing, then fly wheel, THEN back main cap. Bolted on the clutch and pressure plate.

 

  Installed head and torqued to spec. Installed rocker arm, lifters and push rods.  Then adjusted rockers,lifters per shop manual. All this over the last two weeks, an hour now and again.

 

  Today, installed the oil pan. Installed timing chain cover after torquing the cam sprocket. Valve cover and push rod cover are next, after i finish cleaning.

 

   Looks like an engine again.

 

  Ben

 

Dang I better be gettin somethin in the mail, pm me you address again pls

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  Well, engine is assembled!  Have to paint push rod cover and valve cover yet.  Manifolds/headers and FI that are on the 248 will be used. as will HEI distributor.    Just need one or two of you for a couple days to swap it out:lol:.

 

  Still working on AC compressor mount. About figured out thanks to Jim in FL.

 

  Ben

 

 

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263 rebuild 006.JPG263 rebuild 013.JPG

 

  Installed my own Timing indicator. I don't know about you folks, but I have a difficult time finding the timing mark on the flywheel. Even though it is , for the time being, freshly marked.263 rebuild 018.JPG263 rebuild 018.JPG

 

  Much easier.263 rebuild 019.JPG

 

  Good match.  Hope to start pulling the 248 SOON!

 

  Ben

Edited by First Born (see edit history)
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  Well, I did the oil pump run/test. Was able to achieve 46 PSI with the drill working fairly hard.  Only found one leak.  A significant one. When drilling the access holes for the full flow filter, I picked up the wrong final drill bit on the first hole. Ended up about 1/16th too large. The threads are not deep enough, therefore unable to tighten the hose enough.  Not certain what the remedy is. I need to determine the next size thread larger than 3/8 npt, in whatever thread, and redo it if the hose place can match it. I will talk to them tomorrow.

 

  Ben  

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Ben,

 

A picture would help, maybe you could install a brass fitting, same size as the hose fitting that is leaking, coat the fitting threads with epoxy, then attach the hose in the fitting when epoxy has hardened.  This is IF I understand  the issue.

 

Glad you found it B4 the install

 

Dale in Indy 

 

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263 rebuild 011.JPG

  Hose connected, to inlet and outlet for filter .263 rebuild 014.JPG

 

  Pressure gauge. Had no helper, therefore no pix of test.

 

  A little more teflon tape and muscle did it. Ran the pump until drill started to heat up. Comes up to 46 psi and holds. No leak. 

 

  Now to pull the other engine and clean the chassis. Then INSTALL!

 

  Ben

Edited by First Born
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  • 1 month later...

Over a month!!!  UNACCEPTABLE.  

 

    Life has gotten in the way. An oft used excuse, but true.  Still working on AC compressor mounts. Sure would be a lot simpler to forget the AC.  

 

   In preparation for progress on this project, I took the Buick out for a final run with the 248.  Built in to the GPS speedometer/tachometer I have is a 1/4 mile timing function. As a base line to see how much more power/speed the 263 will put out, I did a couple "runs".  IT WILL NOT HAVE TO DO MUCH!   Blazing quarter at 23 seconds and 61 mph. Probably 2/3 rds of the way down the track before a good quarter horse would be passed.

 

  Later

  Ben

 

  

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On 10/4/2016 at 9:38 AM, First Born said:

Over a month!!!  UNACCEPTABLE.  

 

    Life has gotten in the way. An oft used excuse, but true.  Still working on AC compressor mounts. Sure would be a lot simpler to forget the AC.  

 

   In preparation for progress on this project, I took the Buick out for a final run with the 248.  Built in to the GPS speedometer/tachometer I have is a 1/4 mile timing function. As a base line to see how much power/speed the 263 will put out, I did a couple "runs".  IT WILL NOT HAVE TO DO MUCH!   Blazing quarter at 23 seconds and 61 mph. Probably 2/3 rds of the way down the track before a good quarter horse would be passed.

 

  Later

  Ben

 

  

SIMILAR

Edited by old-tank (see edit history)
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21 hours ago, First Born said:

In preparation for progress on this project, I took the Buick out for a final run with the 248.  Built in to the GPS speedometer/tachometer I have is a 1/4 mile timing function. As a base line to see how much power/speed the 263 will put out, I did a couple "runs".  IT WILL NOT HAVE TO DO MUCH!  

:lol::lol::lol:

 

Good one Ben!  Looking forward to impressive improvements.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Riki, looks good!  Do you have a picture of the bracket before installing?   AND the crank pulley. What is it ?  VERY interested in that.

 

  I cannot find a  "mini space saver"  in their catalog.  Found a mini slimline.

 

  Thanks 

  Ben

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Here is the paper work I got with it. Part number shown.The lower pulley is a repro single groove 60s sbc from jegs CAREFULLY centered, welded  to the center part of the balancer then had it balanced. The brackets are a mix of flat stock, cutoff generator brackets and spacers. I've seen other straight 8s with air but the compressor was way up on the side of the block. I mounted mine as low as possible. Have a one wire 150 amp alternator on the other side. 

20161016_142334.jpg

20161016_144133.jpg

20141026_162859.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/16/2016 at 11:00 AM, RiKi5156B said:

I'm using vintage air mini space saver heat/def/air on my 40 special 248.Here' s the pictures of the homemade mount. Rich. 

20141026_162731.jpg

20141026_162655.jpg

20141026_162822.jpg

Allright! Another 2carb40. I like it!

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On 11/3/2016 at 2:47 PM, RiKi5156B said:

Got the engine on this website from chicago cause mine had a cracked block.I mounted the units that way because they fit the best with the scrap metal I had to build brackets with.Rich

Can you post a photo of that crank pulley arrangement and what you did to put multiples together? Thanx in advance!

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