Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 Not there, Dale. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 I found it, and it is NOW on its way, Dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) Finally , I am back!! The call I was waiting for came. Your STUFF is ready. So drove the Buick to the machine shop and picked up the head and "rotating assembly". Don't you like that phrase? Installed the cam this morning. Plugged the main oil galley ends. The holes for the full flow oil filter. If one is familiar with the straight eight, this is self explanatory. If not, indulge me. The bottom hole is drilled into the oil pump discharge line feeding the oil galley. The discharge line has been plugged between the holes. The top hole returns the oil to the oil galley. The filter will be remotely mounted. Somewhere!! A A couple pictures of the cam installed. How about one of the head? Like the man said, the best part is hidden beneath the valves. Late model Ch###y valves cut down with performance rated springs and keepers. Passage ways cleaned up some. Dave, the machinist who owns D&L Performance Machine, said the head will handle more cam than I have. Hoping the money was well spent. And the crank. Now the fun BEGINS! Stick around. Ben Edited July 13, 2016 by First Born (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 That is a long cam isn't it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 15, 2016 Author Share Posted July 15, 2016 3 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: That is a long cam isn't it.... Yeah it is. Update later today..... Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 On 7/13/2016 at 4:17 PM, First Born said: Finally , I am back!! The call I was waiting for came. Your STUFF is ready. So drove the Buick to the machine shop and picked up the head and "rotating assembly". Don't you like that phrase? Installed the cam this morning. Plugged the main oil galley ends. The holes for the full flow oil filter. If one is familiar with the straight eight, this is self explanatory. If not, indulge me. The bottom hole is drilled into the oil pump discharge line feeding the oil galley. The discharge line has been plugged between the holes. The top hole returns the oil to the oil galley. The filter will be remotely mounted. Somewhere!! A A couple pictures of the cam installed. How about one of the head? Like the man said, the best part is hidden beneath the valves. Late model Ch###y valves cut down with performance rated springs and keepers. Passage ways cleaned up some. Dave, the machinist who owns D&L Performance Machine, said the head will handle more cam than I have. Hoping the money was well spent. And the crank. Now the fun BEGINS! Stick around. Ben Hey Ben Really am enjoying the pix and explanations of your project. I do have a question. Did you neutral balance the rotating assembly with the flywheel? Just curious how a strait 8 gets balanced. If so no more worries about lining up flywheel and crank. All that freshened-up iron sure is pretty. Thanx for letting us see what ur up to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 (edited) Greg, to be honest, I don't know. The machinist I used builds performance engines as well, so just asked him to balance. But either way, still is a concern on how they are mated due to the timing mark. I will have a timing mark on the crank pulley. My old eyes have difficult time finding the mark in the flywheel housing "window". But I will install it so the mark on the flywheel is in the right place. And he did mark the flywheel and crank with punch marks to accomplish same. Having said all that and answering Gregs question, I will proceed. Friday Afternoon found my oldest son at my door, on his way to Colorado for a Monday morning pickup from a museum. He found me in the garage, so we carried on. The crank was in, not torqued. I had married the rods, pins and pistons and torqued the pin pinch bolts. So we installed the rings!! Did not break a one. Then decided still time enough to install piston assemblies in the block. NOW we broke a ring!!!! I did not have the ring compressor tightened properly and a ring hung up on the top of the block. A sledge hammer blow to the top of the piston did not make it go into the bore!! Well, not really a sledge hammer, but you get the picture. Learned from that one and the seven remaining sets went right in. Time for supper. Saturday morning we tried to locate another ring. Arias Pistons are not open Sat. We had no luck finding a ring. So, we torqued the main caps and rod caps. I am marking each bolt/nut with a dab of white paint as it is torqued. That is as far as we got. The replacement ring is on the way from Arias. Be here later this week. I will get a few more pictures loaded up and on here later. Ben Edited July 19, 2016 by First Born (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 The pistons are so beautiful that it is almost a shame to put them in your engine where they will just get dirty and no one will ever see them again! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 Well, been awhile. Took a little trip to the mountains in NM to cool of. Woke up Tuesday morning to 50 deg. Back home Wed noon to 98. I now have all the piston assemblies installed. Next is the timing gear and chain. I have made an Executive decision to use the original. I had to return and get a replacement sprocket due to bad casting. The replacement has problems as well. The oil holes are not drilled completely. Re-checked the original and play is well within the specs in the shop manual. Manual indicates 1/2 to 3/4 inch outward movement when NEW. Replacement when 1 inch. Mine is just under 3/4 inch. Still within new specs. Looks better ,too. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I don't want to be wrong about things like this, but I have to agree with you. It sounds like you will be better off with the originals, than some questionable repro parts. I very recently had to change the timing gears on my '69 Electra, and it turns out that they had been replaced before, but the finish on those parts wasn't very good, and I had a broken tooth, so I don't know if that had something to do with it, or not. Long story on that, won't bore you, besides, this is your thread, not mine! I have had other troubles with newer repro parts too. Can't wait till you get it running! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Well golly gee, been a while. Lot going on. I promised some pictures, but the computer operator is having difficulties along those lines. So an update will have to do for now. Don't worry, the pics are here, just get frustrated trying to bring them to the forum. Dale, to answer a question from some time back, the crank weighs 90#. Engine is completely assembled. I checked the bearing clearances and all were in spec. I checked the piston clearances and all were in spec. Filed rings to proper clearance before installing on pistons. Installed the head and torqued to spec. On bearings, as they were torqued , daubed a little white paint on each bolt,nut. Same with oil pump. I bought a new pressure plate and clutch. The one for a '95 Jeep Cherokee fits perfectly. Installed fly wheel housing, then fly wheel, THEN back main cap. Bolted on the clutch and pressure plate. Installed head and torqued to spec. Installed rocker arm, lifters and push rods. Then adjusted rockers,lifters per shop manual. All this over the last two weeks, an hour now and again. Today, installed the oil pan. Installed timing chain cover after torquing the cam sprocket. Valve cover and push rod cover are next, after i finish cleaning. Looks like an engine again. Ben 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Glad you don't call it a MOTOR, hehe Soon to hear the ROAR, Dale in Indy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 9 hours ago, First Born said: Well golly gee, been a while. Lot going on. I promised some pictures, but the computer operator is having difficulties along those lines. So an update will have to do for now. Don't worry, the pics are here, just get frustrated trying to bring them to the forum. Dale, to answer a question from some time back, the crank weighs 90#. Engine is completely assembled. I checked the bearing clearances and all were in spec. I checked the piston clearances and all were in spec. Filed rings to proper clearance before installing on pistons. Installed the head and torqued to spec. On bearings, as they were torqued , daubed a little white paint on each bolt,nut. Same with oil pump. I bought a new pressure plate and clutch. The one for a '95 Jeep Cherokee fits perfectly. Installed fly wheel housing, then fly wheel, THEN back main cap. Bolted on the clutch and pressure plate. Installed head and torqued to spec. Installed rocker arm, lifters and push rods. Then adjusted rockers,lifters per shop manual. All this over the last two weeks, an hour now and again. Today, installed the oil pan. Installed timing chain cover after torquing the cam sprocket. Valve cover and push rod cover are next, after i finish cleaning. Looks like an engine again. Ben Dang I better be gettin somethin in the mail, pm me you address again pls 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) The head in place. I had pics of the pistons installed. As well as the bearings torqued and marked. HAD! Can not find them. Edited August 18, 2016 by First Born (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Head bolted down with new bolts. Rocker arms, lifters and push rods in place and adjusted. Fly wheel timing marks marked. Reckon how long those will last? Oil pan ready for installation. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Well, engine is assembled! Have to paint push rod cover and valve cover yet. Manifolds/headers and FI that are on the 248 will be used. as will HEI distributor. Just need one or two of you for a couple days to swap it out. Still working on AC compressor mount. About figured out thanks to Jim in FL. Ben 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Just wondering, do you plan to run an oil pressure test before installaction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 8 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said: Just wondering, do you plan to run an oil pressure test before installaction? John, been contemplating that. Will probably not do an engine run before. May do the oil pressure test if a drill will pull the pump enough. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I agree with you on the start up/run in before hand. No point scraping off the cam assembly lube before the initial run in. Wish I could come to help you with the install. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Spin up the oil pump and get pressure before putting the engine in the car. Its a pain to have to remove the engine because of a leak. Dont ask me how I know such things. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Simmons Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 A----MEN !!! Brother Stoneberg !!! Been there done that too many times. I know how you know such things. EXPERIENCE is a great teacher ain't it ? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 8 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Spin up the oil pump and get pressure before putting the engine in the car. Its a pain to have to remove the engine because of a leak. Dont ask me how I know such things. Convinced me!! Will do. Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) Installed my own Timing indicator. I don't know about you folks, but I have a difficult time finding the timing mark on the flywheel. Even though it is , for the time being, freshly marked. Much easier. Good match. Hope to start pulling the 248 SOON! Ben Edited August 27, 2016 by First Born (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Good Job... That will make life easier. How did you attach the pointer to the cover ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Bill, I used pop rivets. Forgot to use sealant. Dang! The rivet is tight in the hole, so hopefully will not leak. I had done this with the engine in the car, just bolted on to one of the timing chain cover bolts. Tacky. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 Well, I did the oil pump run/test. Was able to achieve 46 PSI with the drill working fairly hard. Only found one leak. A significant one. When drilling the access holes for the full flow filter, I picked up the wrong final drill bit on the first hole. Ended up about 1/16th too large. The threads are not deep enough, therefore unable to tighten the hose enough. Not certain what the remedy is. I need to determine the next size thread larger than 3/8 npt, in whatever thread, and redo it if the hose place can match it. I will talk to them tomorrow. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Ben, A picture would help, maybe you could install a brass fitting, same size as the hose fitting that is leaking, coat the fitting threads with epoxy, then attach the hose in the fitting when epoxy has hardened. This is IF I understand the issue. Glad you found it B4 the install Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) You might be able to install a HELICOIL . Dale in Indy Edited August 26, 2016 by smithbrother (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) Hose connected, to inlet and outlet for filter . Pressure gauge. Had no helper, therefore no pix of test. A little more teflon tape and muscle did it. Ran the pump until drill started to heat up. Comes up to 46 psi and holds. No leak. Now to pull the other engine and clean the chassis. Then INSTALL! Ben Edited August 27, 2016 by First Born sp (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Over a month!!! UNACCEPTABLE. Life has gotten in the way. An oft used excuse, but true. Still working on AC compressor mounts. Sure would be a lot simpler to forget the AC. In preparation for progress on this project, I took the Buick out for a final run with the 248. Built in to the GPS speedometer/tachometer I have is a 1/4 mile timing function. As a base line to see how much more power/speed the 263 will put out, I did a couple "runs". IT WILL NOT HAVE TO DO MUCH! Blazing quarter at 23 seconds and 61 mph. Probably 2/3 rds of the way down the track before a good quarter horse would be passed. Later Ben Edited October 13, 2016 by First Born (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) On 10/4/2016 at 9:38 AM, First Born said: Over a month!!! UNACCEPTABLE. Life has gotten in the way. An oft used excuse, but true. Still working on AC compressor mounts. Sure would be a lot simpler to forget the AC. In preparation for progress on this project, I took the Buick out for a final run with the 248. Built in to the GPS speedometer/tachometer I have is a 1/4 mile timing function. As a base line to see how much power/speed the 263 will put out, I did a couple "runs". IT WILL NOT HAVE TO DO MUCH! Blazing quarter at 23 seconds and 61 mph. Probably 2/3 rds of the way down the track before a good quarter horse would be passed. Later Ben SIMILAR Edited October 16, 2016 by old-tank (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 21 hours ago, First Born said: In preparation for progress on this project, I took the Buick out for a final run with the 248. Built in to the GPS speedometer/tachometer I have is a 1/4 mile timing function. As a base line to see how much power/speed the 263 will put out, I did a couple "runs". IT WILL NOT HAVE TO DO MUCH! Good one Ben! Looking forward to impressive improvements. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiKi5156B Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 I'm using vintage air mini space saver heat/def/air on my 40 special 248.Here' s the pictures of the homemade mount. Rich. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) Riki, looks good! Do you have a picture of the bracket before installing? AND the crank pulley. What is it ? VERY interested in that. I cannot find a "mini space saver" in their catalog. Found a mini slimline. Thanks Ben Edited October 16, 2016 by First Born (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiKi5156B Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Here is the paper work I got with it. Part number shown.The lower pulley is a repro single groove 60s sbc from jegs CAREFULLY centered, welded to the center part of the balancer then had it balanced. The brackets are a mix of flat stock, cutoff generator brackets and spacers. I've seen other straight 8s with air but the compressor was way up on the side of the block. I mounted mine as low as possible. Have a one wire 150 amp alternator on the other side. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Thank you. If I may ask, why the alternator on the pass side and not the comp? I know you had a reason, just fail to see it. How is the alternator mounted? I like the look of both being mounted low. I had planned to mount mine high. Now??? Thanks Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Interesting RiKi, thanks for sharing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 On 10/16/2016 at 11:00 AM, RiKi5156B said: I'm using vintage air mini space saver heat/def/air on my 40 special 248.Here' s the pictures of the homemade mount. Rich. Allright! Another 2carb40. I like it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiKi5156B Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Got the engine on this website from chicago cause mine had a cracked block.I mounted the units that way because they fit the best with the scrap metal I had to build brackets with.Rich 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 On 11/3/2016 at 2:47 PM, RiKi5156B said: Got the engine on this website from chicago cause mine had a cracked block.I mounted the units that way because they fit the best with the scrap metal I had to build brackets with.Rich Can you post a photo of that crank pulley arrangement and what you did to put multiples together? Thanx in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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