jenz38 Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Ben, may be your torque ball itself at the sealing Surface are worn out ?...how do you fix it ?... can get a new repro Part from Bob or somthing else ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 Jenz, you are probably correct. I am planning to use the rubber on from Bobs. Flywheel housing, clutch and pressure plate installed. Slow but sure. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 For what it's worth, I have been told, by a supplier, that the reason the "rubberised" torque ball retainers for Dynaflow do not work on the synchromesh is the flange size is different. Apparently '53 and later they work! So I will have to stick with the metal to metal. Pits and all. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Is it possible to have the rubber vulcanized to the metal retainer you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 17 minutes ago, Beemon said: Is it possible to have the rubber vulcanized to the metal retainer you have? Probably not, since even the 55 original outer retainer is different shape than the one with rubber and you cannot use the original as a 'core'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Ben, will this kit from "oldbuickparts" work for your torque ball? Ebay item #172471550831 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Ben did you check on this kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-1952-Dynaflow-Transmission-Rear-Stop-Leak-Seal-Kit-Torque-Ball-Retainer/310578977206?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3D318b467159ba4e3aa74c64cb1f472c04%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D172471550831%26itm%3D310578977206&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 18, 2018 Author Share Posted April 18, 2018 2 hours ago, MrEarl said: Ben did you check on this kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-1952-Dynaflow-Transmission-Rear-Stop-Leak-Seal-Kit-Torque-Ball-Retainer/310578977206?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3D318b467159ba4e3aa74c64cb1f472c04%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D172471550831%26itm%3D310578977206&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Info I found is that the flange to the transmission is different size for a standard. So I just "smoothed" mine a little and will have to live with it. Thanks, Lamar. Hope to get mine back together soon. Caretaker duties are becoming all time consuming. Ben 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 On 4/18/2018 at 8:25 AM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: Info I found is that the flange to the transmission is different size for a standard. So I just "smoothed" mine a little and will have to live with it. Thanks, Lamar. Hope to get mine back together soon. Caretaker duties are becoming all time consuming. Ben Greetings Ben Don't know if it's doable, but Bob's sells revulcanized 1939 torque balls which are in the center of the driveshaft. The seal totally covers the inside of the "cup" and I'm wondering if they couldn't do that to the one you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Thanks for thinking about me! I doubt there is enough clearance for that. I used valve grind compound and "lapped" the ball and retainer. Didn't come perfect, but better. Hopefully will not leak TOO bad. If it does I will install a catch pan. Shouldn't be too difficult. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Have any of you 1950 owners actually located the frame/serial number on the frame? Manual says left frame rail near master cylinder. I have never found mine. Is it on the OUTSIDE of the frame or on the INSIDE. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g-g-g0 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Ben On my 53 and all of the 51/52’s I have parted out it is on the top of the drivers side frame rail much further forward. In some cases it was clear up on the frame horn. Never heavily stamped. A good wire brushing and a little spit will usually reveal it! Gary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Thanks, Gary. That is different than the 1950 Slop Manual documents for 1950. Will keep looking. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g-g-g0 Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: Thanks, Gary. That is different than the 1950 Slop Manual documents for 1950. Will keep looking. Ben Apparently the 50 manual reads the same as the 53 manual. Must have been easier to get to when stamping as many seem to be forward of the master cylinder. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 DO YOU HEAR THAT? George is running again.! Finally, about noon, everything was hooked up, double checked, and checked again. Fired right up. Sounds good. Remember the lifter problem earlier? Taken care of. Had the valve spring pressure re done to same as original. Actually, just removed a spacer from under them. Before I had to use 20w 50 oil to keep them quiet. Now have 10w 30. Will see how it does when I get a chance to drive. Took care of a couple oil leaks, I hope. One self induced, another the nature of the beast. First was the oil out to the full flow filter. I had drilled the hole into the oil galley a hair too large. And the wall is not thick there. The fitting [NPT] would not tighten enough. While the engine was apart for the sleeve job, I worked on it.So far so good. Another is the corners of the oil pan, especially the front. Did you ever look closely at how much is going on here? Gasket against the block. Flat plate behind cam gear/timing chain. Another gasket . Timing chain cover. All trying to match up with the front main cap. Then the pan gasket. Gaps everywhere.. I spent considerable time trimming gaskets and filling gaps. I THINK I got everything. Again, we will see. Company coming this week. I believe car work is in the back burner for a few days. In retrospect. If doing a 263, don't bore over 100 thousandths unless sonic test is done. Don't use stronger valve springs on a hydraulic lifter engine. Other than that, would do pretty much as I did again. Next week, after company, will get AC charged and cooling. Later Ben 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Ben, good to hear George is running again. I know what you mean about the gaskets.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Yay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Good to hear that's go ahead with your Engine....and yes,the Problems with the Fittings and front Plate you described ,are very well known for me too...? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Well danged if it hasn't been a MONTH! A lot has happened. Nothing too major.Just had to pull the transmission . Had a bad leak at the front. Tain't easy for a young man to do this. And I passed that milestone a LONG time back. I really do not know where the oil was coming from except it was from the front of the transmission. Cleaned everything again and installed a new gasket between the flywheel housing and the transmission. So far so good. Recharged the AC. Checked plugs, as I was having a stuttering, popping from the exhaust. Found one with NO gap. What is up with that?. Happened once with the 248. Re gapped and re installed. All good. I think. After about a fifty mile drive, cool as a cucumber, seems to be all well. Denver , here I come! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Ill be hunt'n you down for a meetn'! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 10 hours ago, 2carb40 said: Ill be hunt'n you down for a meetn'! I would be disappointed if you did not! Thinking about wearing my name on my back so i will be easier to recognize. Anyone else? Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Well, been back home for two days. George made the trip to Denver with no adverse issues. Great gas mileage, a hair over 20 mpg average for road miles. Best of 21+. Can't complain about that. Torque ball still leaking. Had to fill it in Denver. Probably needs it again. Met 2carb40 [ Gregg], Father Buick [ Douglas ], Paul White, an Aussie, and several others. I DID NOT KEEP A NOTEBOOK. AGAIN. You know the old saying coulda, woulda, shoulda. Every time I go , my intentions are to keep a photo record of folks I meet. Never happens. Ac worked good. Didn't need it much. I want to add some pictures, but my computer does not want to cooperate. It hides what I download. I have to go find them. Later Ben 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 I applaud you for still making the journey after your issues with it earlier in the year.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: I applaud you for still making the journey after your issues with it earlier in the year.... Well shucks, can't let past problems throw a wrench into the works. Hopefully have the past problem whipped. It WAS my fault. Ben Edited June 27, 2018 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Congrats, Ben. Glad she worked well for you. That's really good mileage too. Keith 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 49 minutes ago, Buicknutty said: Congrats, Ben. Glad she worked well for you. That's really good mileage too. Keith Thank you, Keith. Really as looking forward to you being at the Nationals. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 (edited) We are going nuts getting ready for our final move one week today, but as life settles down, I am planning to attend next year's National. Hopefully nothing will conspire against me. It would be great to meet you, and many of the others here, and renew old Buick friendships. Keith Edited June 29, 2018 by Buicknutty (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Hi Ben, just found this post as I don’t look at this site much, but will in future.???? Just want to say I admire your courage and determination to keep at George after a few set backs, More importantly the courage to post not only the wins but the LOSSES. Think many would have just stopped posting here after a few problems, especially when they found a crack in the bore. But in reality sh#@$$&$t happens and we get on with it. And if we all learn something from the life experiences of others ....... ????? And on another note, when I first got my ‘38 Special, thought how wonderful it would be to fit the body onto a Riviera chassis and drive train. The ‘66 Riviera (which I don’t got) is very close in wheel base ......so my ‘63 gave a big sigh of relief ??? Ah well, am enjoying the read Rodney from down under ???? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdarrunt Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Ben, Haven't checked the Modified site for a couple months (at least) and after reading about off setting the sleeve in the offending cylinder I had to go to the storage shed to see if the 263's have a floating wrist pin---they do. IIRC there is at least an 1/8" between the rod top sides and the inside of the wrist pin boss; way enough for sleeve offset. Finally got the automatic OD problem in my 37 solved for a measly $350 plus another set of bands and clutches so ready for Bug Tussle. That *%#& TV (throttle valve) cable now just selects shift points and has nothing to do with clutch/band pressure since I'm running a TCI constant pressure valve body (that's where the $'s went". My hind sight is on par with you on "shoulda done". A/C kept up fine with this months111 degrees so the last weekend in August doesn't scare me a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Evan, so glad you worked the kinks out. Last weekend in August? Is that Bug Tussel? If I can get the torque ball fixed by then I would like to make that this year. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdarrunt Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Got two racks and plenty of gear lube so if you can leak your way to Trenton you can top it off and do the same after the Bug Tussle Trek. I guess that would be in 100 mile segments. Can't help with the oil on floor pan and back end but do have a pressure washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Hi Ben ! Glad to see you are planning more road trips. You are very fortunate that you can drive them, and also are still able to work on them. I hope to still be able to drive the old Cadillacs by the time I am 80. That is when the'24 will be 100 years old. Really great work you have done. And the relief, pride, and satisfaction that you must feel now is a tremendous reward. Many miles of safe, comfortable trouble free motoring to you, Ben ! - Carl 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdarrunt Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Don't be fooled---He's not 80; He's 81 years, 6 months, and 26 days old. Ask me how I know? Is NOT an old man that putts along in the right lane so whatever the traffic is running at the old Buick runs right with it with zero strain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 1 hour ago, mcdarrunt said: Don't be fooled---He's not 80; He's 81 years, 6 months, and 26 days old. Ask me how I know? Is NOT an old man that putts along in the right lane so whatever the traffic is running at the old Buick runs right with it with zero strain. Telling our secrets, Evan. I THINK the torque ball is leak free. Time will tell. Now if my bride can/will make the trip. Or someone stay with her. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdarrunt Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Ben, You may be more ready than me---still shift problems. I WILL go since I can pick my shift points by manually moving the shift lever. I hope you can make it and of course the shop is at your disposal for any "tweaks" you may need. Shop is just 12 miles from the starting point in Farmersville. Complimentary breakfast provided but most interesting to us old farts is the Audie Murphy Memorial smack dab in the middle of main street. His sister still lives there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Ben, I know this is a bit late but I put a/c in my ‘38’. It works nice especially here in Florida. Were you able to get yours installed? Mounting the compressor was easy. I just needed to know the easiest way. I have a 263 engine but that was good. I tried two different ways to run the a/c comp. I ended up taking a second water pump pulley (matched size) and welding it to the front of original pulley, trimmed off the extra part of the additional pulley. This ended up giving me two belts to run the car . Original belt for the w.p, alt. And crank. Then the additional pulley now runs the a/c comp. by itself. Pix are available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Jim, The Belt is'nt slipping ,if the Compressor is switch on ? ..and how far is fallin the Idle .. ?.. I think, your WP (-bearing) makes a hard Job now...😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 (edited) On 12/12/2018 at 7:32 PM, Jim Nelson said: Ben, I know this is a bit late but I put a/c in my ‘38’. It works nice especially here in Florida. Were you able to get yours installed? Mounting the compressor was easy. I just needed to know the easiest way. I have a 263 engine but that was good. I tried two different ways to run the a/c comp. I ended up taking a second water pump pulley (matched size) and welding it to the front of original pulley, trimmed off the extra part of the additional pulley. This ended up giving me two belts to run the car . Original belt for the w.p, alt. And crank. Then the additional pulley now runs the a/c comp. by itself. Pix are available. Jim, good to hear from you. Sorry I did not see this earlier. Yes, the A/C is mounted and happy with the outcome. I was looking for pictures for another forum and found your post. Apparently I did not post pictures! I ended up mounting the compressor on the original generator mount. With a couple of spacers the inside pulley of the double pulley is lined up with the crank and water pump pulley. THEN the alternator is mounted atop the compressor and driven from the outside of the compressor double pulley. Works well . No slipping. Have not even needed to tighten belts. Ben Edited January 7, 2019 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 Here you go, Nick. Should be pictures in here. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 Ben, Just came across this long story & read EVERY post. In a way I was glad I may have been some help along the way. Through ALL the trials & tibulations you endevored om to ccompletion. Not many would have been so tenasoius as you have been & given up a long time ago. How is that little 5 bolt top cover tranny holding up??? I had so much trouble with mine, even with the 264V-8 I changed it to the six bolt top cover. No more problems after that except when I installed a '59/401. Then trans. problems all over again. Didn't like fast shifts between 1st. & 2nd. Would lock up & break the mainshaft in three pieces. Was going to go with a TH400 when somebody stopped by shop & wanted the car with the original trans. which I rebuilt for the last time. Then sold the car. An offer I couldn't refuse. I had that '55 Special for over 25 years. Was LOTS of fun beatin' on the Chebby's, Fords & Mopars of the time. Tom T. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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