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Flywheel ( flexwheel) issue


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just admired the LED light conversion when all of the sudden, I hear a grinding noise in park and reverse that got a little more intense over the last couple of days. it seems to be better in Reverse when engine is hot ( not audible) I suspect the flexwheel(flywheel) and/or the starter

looks like after I bought a bunch of parts from rockauto.com, there is no option to go further back than 1996...so I could not find any matching parts...

any other thoughts on this? if replacing the flywheel, should I replace the starter also? flywheel is $35 at autozone ( even cheaper than ebay...) what other parts in addition to the flywheel should I purchase?

 

 

TC.MOV

Edited by shelbyone (see edit history)
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will check tomorrow ...btw..went through the paperwork documentation that I received when buying the TC...

previous owner changed ( may 2009 )

input speed sensor/output speed sensor, park switch

transmission was replaced with a new one in June 2009, replaced trans filter and gaskets, front pump seal and both axle seals replaced, transmission mount bolts were replaced and it says on the receipt ( locktite all bolts!) ( wtf!) 

 

so I was wondering if they used the old flywheel....nothing is mentioned...

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The flywheel is nothing more than a great big steel gear and not usually replaced with tranny service unless it shows signs of physical damage. Not to say that flywheels don't crack, warp, or get their gear teeth stripped and not that yours couldn't be cracked or warped, but odds of the flywheel causing your described problem are slim to nil.

 

New, used, or rebuilt, any tranny can get a sticky valve, weak solenoid, bad switch or wire connect and any one of these would more likely be the cause of your described problem. This might sound bad, but it's actually good as these little repairs can be done without pulling the tranny, which is a big job if you can do the work yourself and a pricy job if you can't.

 

First things first is check the tranny fluid before you start the engine and again when warm. A flaky controller can also cause this kind of trouble and there is a diagnostic port under the dash, I don't have a tester for this tranny and I doubt you do either so I suggest some shade tree troubleshooting. If you have found that your fluid is good and full and as you're making bad noise in park and reverse, start in neutral, shift to drive and see if you get the same sound, then shift to reverse. This won't give an absolute answer, but it could identify or eliminate a sticky valve and once you know this much you can make a best guess repair, or take it to a pro.

 

 

 

 

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checked the fluid...seems full, does not smell burned to me, not bubbly...did not check if sticky...this morning when engine was cold, the grinding noise was audible even in drive position..after about 5 minutes, I could not hear it anymore...its still always audible in reverse...

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With the grinding noise audible in both drive and reverse your flywheel possibility moves up from nil to slim and slim is still good as the flywheel might be about the cheapest part scenario; the labor to replace is pricy.

 

This is where you roll the dice and choose a course of action. There is no substitute for the trained ear of an experienced mechanic, I don't know what it cost in LA to get a diagnostic done at a tranny shop, but it can't be much more than shot gunning this by replacing all the most likely parts. Because I can't hear what you hear the only part I would suggest swapping before spending money on a pro is the tranny controller. Get a good used one from the bone yard and if you fix the problem great, if not, picking up a $30 spare today could save you hundreds tomorrow.

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Jack the car up, remove the lower transmission rack guard tin (may require removing some engine mount bolts, but you shouldn't have to take any mounts loose from the engine, tranny, or car. Once you get the tin off, take a flashlight and look up at the flex plate, maybe take some pictures. Too bad it's not a 2.2/2.5 car because you can tell if the flex plate is cracked by setting the engine at TDC at the timing belt side and see if the timing mark on the torque converter is where it's supposed to be. A cracked flex plate will allow the hub of the flex plate to move in relation to the torque converter, so they won't match.

 

You *might* be able to see up to the hub of the flex plate with the tin off, and if so, you will be able to see if it's cracked. Also, check the torque converter bolts and make sure they are tight. I've seen them back out if Locktite wasn't used.

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found some info on the topic here in the forum ( see screenshot) ...also...was wondering, if it could also be the neutral switch..still researching on an honest and fair transmission master ( I know, its an oximoron)  here in the area ( CA 90046) 

my transmission has been replaced...is that reason enough for the tcm to act up? just in case...does anyone have a tcm module flying around?!

Screen Shot 2016-04-22 at 7.03.14 PM.png

Edited by shelbyone (see edit history)
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The tranny works two ways and they need to agree for things to work properly. If the TCM thinks you're in neutral when you're physically shifted into drive it's going to be telling your valves to do something different than the shift selector is telling them to do and this can eat a tranny. If the TCM and shift selector are in sync, that is all electronics and sensors are good and it's making a grinding noise then something physical is the cause, like a sticky or bad solenoid or valve, this can also eat a tranny.  Sticky valves can be cleaned and an additive may work, or it could be wasted money. As I live in snow country I know more about the auto tranny in my 4 wheel drive than my front wheel drive and by the time you get a grindy noise in the 4 wheel drive bell housing, it's usually to late for the frees sticky valve additive, but you still cross your fingers, spend the $10 and hope for the best. If it doesn't work right away, you get dirty and fix it the right way. This is an electro-mechanical transmission, there are a couple of $30 things you can do on the outside like a new switch, or a good used TCM that are good spare parts to have on hand and won't be wasted if they don't fix the problem.

 

Electrically the Neutral Safety switch also works the back up lights and it can cause some strange problems if it's telling the controller that you're still in park when you shift to reverse or it's telling the controller you're in reverse when you're in drive. I know this from personal experience and when shopping for a new switch I found that the two switches sold for my 1990 car don't fit. At the Chrysler parts counter you will get the switch that fits the tranny but not the wire harness, The parts store will give you a second option and it fits the harness, not the tranny. When I got my 1990 V6 auto the the back up lights didn't work and I tracked it down to a broken pin on the neutral safety switch, that was when I discovered that the listed switches don't fit. As the car started when in park and neutral like it was supposed to, I lived with it until I found a switch made by BDW #NS 38054 that did fit the tranny and wire harness, When I put the switch in the back up lights started working and I found out why the pin was broken off at the switch. When shopping for a good used TCM  http://car-part.com/  (a nice link to have when shopping for used parts)  I was thrilled to find a NOS reman with the latest rev level on the shelf at a little yard in Ohio for $20, shipping was more than the part. When I put that in it solved the problem I had and gave me a whole new shifting problem, not knowing that installing the new rev level required cutting a wire I went to the local yard and got a good used TCM from a rusty old minivan. The newer rev is supposed to work if you cut the wire to pin 43 TCM, my rev level TCM was also used in the 1990 & 91 3.0 V6 LeBaron, New Yorker, Acclaim, Daytona, Sprint, so there are still plenty of good used units on somebody's shelf or out in the yard, I didn't cut the wire.

 

When all is said and done, this is a computer controlled electro-mechanical transmission and though the TCM is affordably available used, the parts inside aren't. If you don't know which tranny shop to trust get estimates from a couple, if they both tell you the same thing and you think you can do the work yourself, I say go for it. If they tell you two different things, get a third opinion and pay for a diagnostic at another.
 

 

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Posting doesn't give rev level so I can't answer that question, but part number is compatible with the 89 Acclaim so it should be OK. Do wonder why you would want to pay more than you need to.

Also I looked at your LED conversion posting and noted your noise started after you installed the new flasher, the tranny diagnostic plug hangs loose up in that area and it would be worth taking a look up under the dash to make sure you didn't pinch the cable, one in a million shot.

 

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ok...so I called 4! places from parts.com and asked for prices including shipping to LA...the cheapest was $75! up to $150!  so I guess I am better off with ordering from ebay..question is...are the following units compatible? without cutting any wires?! and if so...which one!...

 

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Not your normal common problem.

Don't need to pull flywheel to remove tranny, but is common preventative maintenance to replace main bearing seal when tranny is off, so you are probably right about the shop. A lot of work for a couple of bolts.

Bummer.

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8 hours ago, shelbyone said:

changed out neutral switch...no change..did not order tcm module...found issue...2 screws missing at flywhell.. what the #@$%  I suppose, the shop that replaced the trans in 2009 ( original owner)  messed it up ....great....

I suspect that you are speaking of the 4 bolts that attach the flex plate (flywheel) to the torque converter. As you cannot see the bolts that attach the flex plate to the crankshaft, of which there are 8, meaning that two missing would cause nothing.

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