Flowkooler water pump in none-AC + questions on what more to replace when doing timing chain

[EmTee]

On 2/21/2018 at 3:00 PM, retiredmechanic74 said:

DO NOT use Loctite!!  If you have to take it apart again sometime down the road you will find out why not to use loctite. 

 

Anyone who didn't heed this warning and needs to remove the bolt can try applying heat to the bolt head (carefully) to soften the Locktite and then loosen.

[retiredmechanic74]

1 hour ago, EmTee said:

 

Anyone who didn't heed this warning and needs to remove the bolt can try applying heat to the bolt head (carefully) to soften the Locktite and then loosen.

That is true, but it takes at least 500 degrees to soften Loctite up which can lesson the strength of the bolt and melt the timingcover crank seal. So if you have to take that action plan on replacing the bolt and maybe the seal. 

[telriv]

I'm also a so called "Retired" mecanic. I've NEVER had a problem loosening bolts when using "Red" Loctite. I don't know what the BIG problem is with using it PROPERLY.

[SwedeDownUnderR63]

Finally finished. Took the car for a test drive today after filling it up with some automatic fluid (it has been standing still for a long time) and all seems OK. Thank you all for the advice (I didn't use any Loctite).

This was accomplished:

• Timing chain (from Russ Martin), water pump for A/C (Flowkooler), timing chain cover (Russ) and fuel pump (Russ) has been changed.

• The first step in converting it to A/C has been taken with an original A/C alternator bracket, 3 groove pulleys, the A/C fan and a fan clutch used for A/C. The shroud will be put in place when I got the correct radiator brackets for A/C. Next steps won’t be until late this year or early next when I will take out the engine, get all the vintage air parts needed, take out the old heating system and start to have fun internal in the car. I need to feed my hunger for driving the car first.

I am not certain yet if I need to change the radiator too, I assume that vintage air is less energy hungry than the original A/C and it might be possible that the Flowkooler is so more efficient that the radiator that I know the previous owner had rebuilt is good enough in this combination. I guess that I will see.

Two pictures of the engine after the operation and one of the special setup I had for the harmonic wrench. Note: I had spare bolts for the pulley to be put outside the harmonic balancer which was good as connecting the harmonic wrench to it did do havoc with the bolts.

 

[SwedeDownUnderR63]

Just a small update as the fan shroud now is in place, I had to source the 2  x  "Radiator Bracket Lower for AC Fan Shroud" from Dan Jackson (I had the "Top Radiator Bracket Mount for A/C and shroud").

Dan was also able to supply me with all the internal parts to convert to A/C for internal factory A/C look. I still have the famous bolt to change for the "A/C and Generator bracket" but that together with the Vintage Air parts will have to wait until next year when the big operation will take place. Small steps but I guess that is the pace I have to take with me loving the driving experience before anything else. BTW as you know my 63 should have had the engine painted in silver but I continued with green as it mostly was already painted in green, something to look into when the engine is out one day.

Picture:

[Seafoam65]

Thanks for the update........sounds like you are enjoying your car and that's what it's all about!

[Rafz66riv]

On 4/19/2016 at 5:37 PM, RivNut said:

Non a/c pumps have a three blade impeller, a/c pumps have a five blade impeller.

Iam looming for a new water for the 66 riv with A.C. But i’am not sure if this water pump on summit that ima trying to buy is for a A.C car. Would this be a A.C water pump because of the five blades?

[1965rivgs]

Yes

Tom Mooney