GaryP65

Wheels & Brakes

Recommended Posts

So I finally got the wheel of (with maybe 91 yrs of rust on them), and this is what I see.

How do I get this cover off to inspect the inner linings?

Also, the mechanics manual & the book of information is not very descriptive on how to check/adjust the brakes.

 

Any advise? 

20160415_191744-1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

That's not a cover.......it's part of the hub assembly.

Unless you have a hub puller (which i can and will lend to you....... ;) ) you'll be fighting a losing battle as the hub fits on a tapered/keyed axle.

With a puller it should be come off fairly easily........putting it back on is a bit of a PIA as the emergency brake shoes are INSIDE the drum so you'll be fiddling with two sets of brakes.

Unscrew the aluminum DB cover (normal right hand threads) at which point you'll see what I mean.

When you get to it pay attention to how things come apart as there is a grease shield behind the hub which may also require you get a tad inventive.

If your service brakes are working well now don't fiddle with the adjustment unless you have to and if you must count how many turns you back off the adjusting nut.

The spring on top serves to lift the brake band off the drum when not in use.

I had to make both of those for mine........I used worn out power hack saw blades which work very well.

The photo is the one I made when I needed to "get in there" too.

 

HubPuller1.jpg

HubPuller2.jpg

Edited by cahartley (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So basically, I take the castle nut off and use a puller?

Can I use a standard puller?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, GaryP65 said:

So basically, I take the castle nut off and use a puller?

Can I use a standard puller?

Three legged HEAVY DUTY puller....not a Korean cheapo or it will break the tool before it removes the drum.

wheel puller.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The puller that screws onto the hub is the safest to use.  The 3 jaw puller can distort a pressed steel brake drum if the hub is really stuck

on the tapered axle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, 60ch said:

The puller that screws onto the hub is the safest to use.  The 3 jaw puller can distort a pressed steel brake drum if the hub is really stuck

on the tapered axle.

Yes....probably the best way to approach the issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cahartley was nice enough to offer the one he make but I would (and he) be upset if it broke. Does anyone know the thread size? I would like to make one as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless your a very good machinist . I would order one from George  gmcmurtry@cmbarqmail.com ,he makes them . They come in various sizes have a fine and tapered thread . Appox 200 bucks ,and a deal at that price .

   I however doubt you would break the borrowed one , If you follow all the lube and install instructions, they are the best . Do a search you'll see more info on them being used on this forum .

Edited by ArticiferTom
add a r (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary, the thread (to which the hub cap and hub puller screws) on the DB 4-cyl. hubs is 1-7/16" x 16 TPI.

I think maybe your email to George McMurtry bounced because you left the "r" out of his name. George is such a nice guy, and what a machinist!

I wish I lived closer to you. I would love to help you with your car.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I wish you did too. I looked thru the book and it's not clear on the steps to reinstall so this one may just put me over the edge!

Thanks for the correction to his email.

Just hate to spend that money on something I'm only going to use maybe once.

Edited by GaryP65 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so I insert the 'r' in his email and still it bounced back.

This is what I used:

gmcmurtry@cmbarqmail.com

Can anyone confirm? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary Myers Early DB parts in Michigan sell the hub puller that you require Another thing that I was told by an old Mechanic many years ago is when you re- assemble the hubs back on the axles do not use a lube on the taper Just have every thing clean and dry 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The other method people recommend is to put all the tires on the vehicle. Remove hub caps. Then loosen, let's say, driver front nut until a quarter inch or so shows between hub and nut.  Do not remove nut completely. Then drive or pull car very slowly and turn the steering wheel as much as possible toward and away from the wheel you what to break loose. Since it is tapered if enough shaking goes on it will break free. Just  a thought.

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, GaryP65 said:

Cahartley was nice enough to offer the one he make but I would (and he) be upset if it broke. Does anyone know the thread size? I would like to make one as well.

You CAN'T break it.......trust me.

I never made anything to fail....... :D ........and you are welcome to it for postage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cahartley, I think I'll take you up on your offer. I will PM you soon to work out the details.

Even before I accomplish my task I want to say thank you (and to all of you for your help). This is the very reason I got on this forum. Not only to benefit from the knowledge but for the common bond all car guys share. So again, thank you all. without all your help, I would have never gotten this far.

 

Ready for tires, muffler some suspension work and its on the road!

 

I do have another one for you guys. :)

For the tire retainer ring, is there a 'key' that keeps in on?

 

20160415_204811.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And there was a recent thread about installing them and the safety concerns surrounding them.  You'd be smart to search for it and understand the risks before installing them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ready to buy tires and need advise.

Everything I read is about 30, 32 or whatever size tires x 4 or 5, etc...

Here a photos of my rim with a tape on it and the 'current' tires.

 

let me know what you guys think.

20160508_233517[1].jpg

Edited by GaryP65 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tyre size is pretty clear then.

 

You can fit wider tyres to that rim, but it will be difficult. They are stiffer and you have to manipulate it all to get the whole thing (tyre, tube, rust band or flap) in at once. Getting the valve in is hard if the tyre is stiff and you can't get your hand in there. It also makes the locking ring work quite hard to hold the bead. I would use the existing tyre size.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/9/2016 at 2:32 PM, Spinneyhill said:

Tyre size is pretty clear then.

 

"Getting the valve in is hard if the tyre is stiff and you can't get your hand in there." .

 

Actually it is easy if you use a valve stem puller. Not endorsing any product here, but this is an example from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Valve-Stem-Fishing-408A/dp/B0022UPHHM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I have one that has a little chain instead of a cable.  The t -handle swivels to an I-shape to get thru narrow openings. Easy-peazy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the ones off my 26 dodge off by parking on a slight in grade lift opposite side you want to get off with a Jack....the side you want to get off loosen nut ....put a solid block of wood on axle and hit with sledge hammer on axle shaft....do a search on here and the describe it better

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an observation about hammering on the end of the axle. The reaction to that hammering is in the wheel bearings. Think about the damage you are doing to the bearings before you hammer it too hard!

 

Yes, a valve stem puller does help. I have been using a piece of plastic tube over the end of the stem - I have metal stems with an 80 degree bend in them. The plastic tube helps avoid damage to the paint around the hole in the rim.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...