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Hello, Hemi, I think I need your help, and anyone else out there who can assist me with my brake replacement project (actually, my mechanic's brake replacement project).  I am planning to replace the brakes using the LaBaron parts as outlined in Hemi's article.    I've been looking on-line, and my mechanic has been calling salvage yards for some of the parts, but to no avail.  So, my first question is whether anyone has, or knows where to get the two proportioning valves needed for the replacement.  Or, as an alternative, if anyone has used an adjustable proportioning valve successfully, so I can use the same brand and settings.  I'm also looking for the brake pedal for a LaBaron, but I think that will be easier to find.  Right now, the proportioning valves are the big issue.

 

Another question, and Hemi, you'll probably know this; is there any benefit to replacing the calipers and disks to get more brake surface?  If so, does anyone have specs?  Do I need to replace the wheels?  And has anyone done this and found that it makes any difference, or is it a waste?

 

Thank you all.

 

Josh

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My answer to the first set of questions is in a PM to you, See top right of page here.

Regarding "Another Question", I would recommend that you do the conversion first, then consider the upgrade later unless you find a Dodge Daytona IROC which has larger front and rear brakes, then you might do the entire swap simultaneous. Those cars had 16" wheels standard equipment. I believe the LeBaron GTC also had these larger brakes.

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Used the SSBC adjustable valve on multiple race cars quite successfully. Some drivers swear by them, others prefer the preset lever adjustable over the variable rate knob adjust.

 

If I had to replace my brakes today I would cannibalize a Volvo for parts. The 1998 to 2004 C30 convertible is front wheel drive, 4 wheel disk, approximately the same weight and balance and they are still salvage yard available. My actual brake plan is to grab a stability control system out of something newer if I can get it complete at an almost free price and then set it aside for that rainy day.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Digger914 said:

Used the SSBC adjustable valve on multiple race cars quite successfully. Some drivers swear by them, others prefer the preset lever adjustable over the variable rate knob adjust.

 

If I had to replace my brakes today I would cannibalize a Volvo for parts. The 1998 to 2004 C30 convertible is front wheel drive, 4 wheel disk, approximately the same weight and balance and they are still salvage yard available. My actual brake plan is to grab a stability control system out of something newer if I can get it complete at an almost free price and then set it aside for that rainy day.

 

 

That seems like a total botchery of a TC. (pardon my new word)  Nevertheless, to hang Volvo parts on a Chrysler TC,????  That is a stretch! 

To each his own. That one doesn't fly with me. Joshio, you do what you wish...

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If you are going to use the 11" vented disc brakes I recommend a 1990 brake proportioning valve with a yellow tag on it. Most ALL Daytona's and LeBarons with standard disc/drums got these. The tag represents the way the valve works and unfortunately it doesn't carry over through all the years, but I know that one very well. I have used it in several 11" conversions and have found that the balance it provides under very hard braking with that system is better than the valve that those cars usually came with. Whatever you do DO NOT use a '87/'88 disc brake valve. They are WAY too aggressive in the rear and can cause premature rear brake lock. I've experienced that in 2 different Shelby Z's and I've had others say they have had the same experience.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:

That seems like a total botchery of a TC. (pardon my new word)  Nevertheless, to hang Volvo parts on a Chrysler TC,????  That is a stretch! 

To each his own. That one doesn't fly with me. Joshio, you do what you wish...

 

Replacing Teves with Bendix is replacing Teves with Bendix, if it fits in the hole and does the job, does it really matter who made the car it came from. When I needed a new EGR valve for my vintage MGB twenty years after the company went out of business, I ordered one from a specialty supplier and the part came brand new from Chrysler. I can't explain why passing some stupid emissions test was so important to me, that I buggered up my beautiful British sports car with an EGR valve from a Plymouth Horizon. But I did and suffering the self inflicted shame of this British car debauchery and the continuing humiliation of license tab renewal caused me to never again lift her bonnet outside the privacy of my own garage. So I understand the love affair a man can have with his classic motoring machine and the shame of deflowering its factory original equipment for his own selfish desire and I can understand how distasteful a thought it is to even consider having brake parts that were once installed in a Volvo, placed next to a Mitsubishi motor, tucked under the hood of a half breed Maserati Chrysler. Even when this is done for the purest of intentions, the adulteration of the factory equipment of this mixed breed motor car will cost you points at show.

 

It's not to far a stretch to compare cars to lovers, so long as you stay together and everything is working, your secrets are safe and if you use parts from a Hyundai and don't want to be embarrassed by your automotive indiscretions, keep your hood closed.

 

When I split the side of my 24mm deep impact socket it created an inconvenient open hole in my socket tray and when I got tired of trying to catch the tool truck I replaced it with a 15/16sae and stuck a 24mm label on it, but I only let people hand me my tools, I don't let them look under the label.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello.  Well, I was planning to provide an update to the group.  On Friday I picked my TC up with it's brand "new" LeBaron brake system.  And Sunday I was out for a drive when a woman decided to turn left from the center lane and smashed into me.  Then she took off.  So, so, so bummed.  Does anyone have experience with body work on these?  I know they are not "component" bodies like today's cars, and I've seen that the hand assembly and steel parts make it a challenge.  I also know I'll need to look for parts on line (front fender, head light, turn-signal light, chrome along the bumper and wheel well).  Did I mention how bummed I am?  And I am assuming that matching the paint is a pipe dream, so presumably the whole thing needs to be painted?

 

Thanks,

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For the last month I've watched a ride & drive, 68K mile, 91 TC V6 auto with a good body and mildewed upholstery run through the salvage auction week after week with a buy it now  price of $450 and without getting a bid over $175. It sold yesterday, my guess is that it's on it's way to a scrapper and you should tyr inquiring for the parts you need through this site http://car-part.com/  if you can't find what you need through this site.

 

If you got hit in the right front you might still be OK and should hook up with this guy in Texas who might just have everything you need.

 

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