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Elec/Hyd Power Window Pump.


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I wanted to know if anyone out in Lincoln land knows where I can get my (1948 L/C)<BR>window pump repaired. I've had the electric unit rebuild, I replaced the seals inside the pump, The pump is was primed and it'll spin but no Hyd. pressure. confused.gif" border="0

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  • 3 years later...

The hyd. pumps are very easy to repair yourself. if it is spinning but not pumping you will need to take it apart and clean it, sounds like the high pressure valve is stuck which is common in these pumps if they have sat for any time with the old brake fluid in them. You might have to modify a set of needle nose plires to get into the hole where the valve sits to work it loose, try soaking it in a good penatrating oil for a day or 2 first. If you cant get it fixed let me know. if I remember right the high pressure valve is behind one of the screws in the aluminum body and when you pull it out it will be obvious due to the corrosion.

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Guest imported_V12Bill

You can make the bale that retains the cap for the resevior for the pump from piano wire obtained at most hobby supply shops. If you have the old bale use it as a guide for the correct size wire and shape. When rebuilding the pump, check the armature shaft where the leather seal contacts the shaft. Since DOT 3 brake fluid absorbs water, the shaft can rust away in this area. I repaired my shaft with an epoxy resin and sanded it to the proper diameter.

Question; My windows go up at a normal speed but go down very slowly (all four). What would cause this?

Bill

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Could be a combination of things besides the springs that could cause the slow retraction. The length of the "run" and also the size of the orifice in the replacement cylinders. I completely redid the system in my sedan and noticed that the longer the hydraulic run- the slower the action? The driver's window moves faster (both ways) than the rear windows. Although I flushed the lines there could be some residual blockage? I notice that the line from the hose connection to the window cylinders in 1/4" where as the feed lines are all 5/16". Any thoughts about the ATF making any differences in operation?

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I replaced all my cylinders with new ones also and also relaced all the hydraulic lines with new, I didnt think of the smaller return line at the time slowing the lowering of the windows but if I had it to do over again I would install 5/16 lines on both sides maybe even 3/8 for the rear windows. I havent found any difference in the speed of the windows with ATF over a regular hydralic fluid except for price.

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Guest imported_V12Bill

I didn't replace my window rams, but I did take them apart and cleaned out the goop that remained from the DOT 3 brake fluid that was originally used. What return line are you referring to? The fluid under preasure runs through the same tube as the return fluid that is not under preasure. The Top rams have separate lines for up and down and one acts as a return line when the other is under preasure and vice versa. My flexible rubber lines are new.All of my metal hard lines are new. I am using ATF. My springs were replaced with good(?) used springs.All windows seem to operate under the same slow speed when going down . They all go up at a reasonable speed.

Bill

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I have a feeling our notion that the windows operate slowly is really the nature of the beast. The up and down "speed " on my system is pretty much the same for each window. The back ones do run slower in both directions and the right front is a tad slower than the driver's side.

Looking in an old manual I came across this. "The approximate performance requirements of new units are as follows:Window regulators should raise or lower glass the full extent of travel in about 2 seconds; the convertible top operationshould take 14 seconds etc." I wonder if anyone has a system that operates this fast?

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