How to remove A/C compressor clutch

[Guest gossir00]

First can I remove the clutch without removing the entire compressor from the car? If answer is yes what tool(s) do I need to remove the clutch? FYI... 1990 Reatta . Entire compressor was replaced three years ago and 15k miles since. See pics

[DAVES89]

Advance Auto and AutoZone has tools to rent.

[Tom_]

GM uses a special tool you can rent from O'Reilly's or Advance. Yes you can remove the clutch without removing the compressor.

[Maui Blue]

Reviving an old thread here...  

 

My 1990 Reatta suddenly started a terrible clattering / rattle sound upon start up one morning.  After fooling around with it for a while I discovered the noise only happens when the AC is OFF  -  not when it is ON.  From what I gather this indicates a bad A/C compressor clutch. 

 

I see from reading this thread that the clutch replacement can be done without removing the compressor.  Great!  But I don't know the procedure to do that. If anyone can give an amateur shade tree mechanic the steps involved for repair or replacement, or point me to the right not-to-technical resource, I would greatly appreciate it. 

 

I notice in this thread there is a special tool required that might be available on loan from AutoZone, etc.  Is this a generic or specific to GM tool that I would ask for?

 

Thanks! 

[Ronnie]

Welcome to the forum!  Your clutch might be bad and needs replacing but fixing the problem might be as simple as adjusting the air gap on the clutch. Either way special tools are needed. If the clattering is so bad that you are afraid to drive the car you can bypass the compressor by using a different belt until you can get it fixed. Here is a link to my website that tells you which belt you will need. Belt To Bypass The AC Compressor

[Maui Blue]

I was afraid to drive it until I figured out it's the probably AC clutch.  I think I can drive it a bit now just by setting the thermostat super low so that it runs nearly all the time.  Can you help me understand the process of checking / adjusting the air gap? That would be a huge help.  I do have a mechanic friend that might be able to help me out if I can give him some guidance.

 

I found your website with the belt information before I posted here and noted all the replacement numbers.  I might have to do that in a pinch.  Thanks for providing such a helpful resource!

 

 

[Ronnie]

I have watched people adjust the clutch but I've never done it myself. The clutch is pressed onto the compressor shaft - that's  the way I remember it. I believe the tool screws into the large hole in the clutch and moves the clutch on the shaft coming out of the compressor to get the right clearance. I'm sure there are youtube videos that show how to do it..

[Ronnie]

Here you go. This is a good one.

 

 

[Maui Blue]

Terrific video.  The whole thing seems much more doable than I thought.  I rented the tool kit at O'Rielly's tonight to do the adjustment, and clutch replacement if that becomes necessary, and there is a bit of a pictorial tutorial inside the box too. 

 

I'll check back in a day or two to let you know how it goes.

 

Thanks so much for your help!  Awesome! 

[handmedownreatta]

on my car i found that the clutch backing plate had broken into two pieces.i was able to get it apart using a tool from autozone.my problem is i can't see it well enough to put it back together.its in a terrible place.

[Maui Blue]

OK, here is an update...

 

I rented the AC clutch removal and adjustment tool, and bought an AC bypass belt just in case.  One of the main reasons for believing it was the AC clutch was the fact that the noise only occurred when the AC was OFF and stopped when the AC was on. I believed this was a damaged or warped AC clutch plate, but on the 1 hour to my friends place  the symptoms changed and the noise was audible whether the AC was on or off.  Now it seemed to be RPM dependent. More RPM's less noise. Also the noise went away when I shifted into neutral at traffic lights.

 

Before starting on the AC clutch I had my mechanic friend have a look.  He was as baffled by the symptoms as I. We were unable to find any components in the belt path that had any excessive play or wobble, and we could not localize the noise even with a mechanics stethoscope.  It wasn't until he used his phone camera to look at areas we couldn't see well that he discovered some significant separation of the rubber isolation material on the harmonic balancer.  (See pic)  So tonight I ordered the part and will return to his place (where I left the car since I didn't feel it wise to drive it another hour back home) next Saturday when we will replace the part.  Fingers crossed!  

 

p.s.  125K California miles on the odometer.

 

 

[Ronnie]

That harmonic balancer is definitely bad and needs to be replaced. It's a common problem on a 3800.