Generator rear bushing question

[Daves1940Buick56S]

As part of the recent work I have stripped down the generator to replace a noisy front bearing. I thought I would go ahead and do the rear bushing at the same time. So looking at my current one in the rear frame, I noticed 2 things: it is scuffed, and I could see no clear path for the oil that is put into the rear oiler cup to get to the inside of the bushing.

 

So further research has led me to this: the bushing part number is 812823 and apparently it was to be used with a 804076 oil wick. Mine has no wick currently so the bushing must have been replaced at some point. Further research shows that the later bushing replacement is known as X-4242, which I have obtained from Bob's. According to Standard Motor's 66-51 service bulletin (attached), the procedure is to drill out the side of the bushing after it is installed and run the wick from there down into the oil reservoir. 

 

1. First, on pressing out the bushing, what direction does it go, out the rear or towards the inside?

 

2. Has anyone installed the bushing and gotten the wick properly placed as in 66-51?

 

3. Any good source for the wick or equivalent material to use?

 

Thanks, Dave

SB 66-51.pdf

[Daves1940Buick56S]

More info. A search on the 804076 oil wick got me to John Deere, which carries this part as it was used in 6V generators in tractors. They still carry it, but the new part number is R11201. Any John Deere dealer can order this for you, 93 cents.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Well I drove the bushing out thru the rear with a 13mm socket pretty easily. Also drove out the 1/4" plug on the wick channel. Once I get the wick this week I will put on the drill press and drill out. I will write this up into a procedure with pix and post.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Sorry for the delay, finally got it done.

 

Procedure for Generator Rear Bushing Replacement

Applies to: Delco Remy 1102668 and similar generator used from 1940 to early 1950s.

The rear bushing is pressed into the generator rear commutator frame. It has a small hole drilled in the side to allow a wick to carry oil from the oil reservoir in the rear frame to the armature shaft.

Original GM part number for the bushing is 812823. Replacement part number is X4242C. Dimensions are 0.553" inside diameter by 0.784" outside diameter by 0.797" length. Cost is about $5.

Original GM part number for the oil wick is 804076. A replacement can be obtained from John Deere, part number R11201 for about $1.

X4242C has the hole predrilled. If this part cannot be obtained, X4242 is a suitable substitute, but the hole will have to be drilled as part of the installation procedure. This will be detailed below.
The following procedure was developed from SB 66-51 (attached for convenience), and is assumed to be using a X4242 bushing.

1. Remove the generator from the vehicle. Remove the commutator cover band and rear brushes.

2. Remove the long bolts and nuts attaching the front frame, field frame, and commutator frame together.

3. Pull out the front frame, armature, and pulley assembly.

4. Check the new bushing on the rear of the armature shaft to ensure proper fit. If the shaft has not worn any the bushing may have to be reamed a bit.
(N.B. The author's bushing fit well with no reaming required.)

5. Separate the commutator frame from the field frame. The screws used for attaching the brush leads may have to be removed to obtain the necessary clearance.

6. Remove the 3 screws folding the small cover on the external side of the commutator frame. Remove the cover, gasket, and any remaining wick. Discard the wick.

 

7. Place the commutator frame on top of an opened vise, internal side up, and use a 13mm or 9/16" long socket to drive the old bushing out the rear. (See Photo 1.)
(N.B. The author's bushing required very little force to extract.)

8. Place the frame vertically in a vise with the external side facing out and the oiler cover facing down. Looking in the bushing cavity on the left side, down at the bottom the end of the oil wick plug will be seen. Using a pin punch or small drift, drive the plug out. (See Photo 2. Arrow is pointing to drift against plug end.)

 

9. Clean the commutator frame with a light solvent to remove old oil remnants. (See Photo 3 for a view of components.)

10. Place the commutator frame on an open vise with the external side facing up. Drive the new bushing in so the edge is flush with the bushing cavity edge.

11. Use a 1/4" drill bit to drill down through the oil wick hole that the plug was covering (removed in step 8), carving out a hole in the side of the bushing. This can be done with a portable drill but is much more easily done with a drill press with a drill press vise holding the frame in place. (See Photo 4 and 5. Hole in side of bushing can be clearly seen in Photo 5.)

12. Vacuum all metal shavings out of the frame. Deburr the edges of the hole in the bushing with a small piece of 220 grit sandpaper, followed for applications of 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 grit to smooth out the inside of the bushing around the hole.

13. Trim down one end of the new wick to make it easily insert into the oil wick hole. (See Photo 6.)

 

14. Pull through with needle nose pliers or similar and cut off the trimmed end. Pull enough through to coil into the oil reservoir to fill it up. (See Photo 7.)

 

15. Trim off the remainder at the top of the oil wick hole. The wick should physically be protruding through the hole on the bushing. (See Photo 8, arrow points to protruding wick.)

16. Replace the oil wick plug by driving it back in. (See Photo 9, plug in process of replacement.)

17. Cut a new gasket with thin gasket material using the old paper one as a template.

18. Thoroughly saturate the wick with oil and, using the newly cut gasket, replace the cover removed in step 6. (See Photo 10.)

19. Reassemble the generator frames, bolt up, and replace the brushes and commutator cover. Replace the generator into the vehicle.

 

SB 66-51.pdf

 

[Larry Schramm]

Nice write up