Zimm63

1st Gen front end specs

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Getting ready to take my 63 in for a front end alignment.  It has new radials, fresh track bar bushings, a bigger jamco sway bar, and one of Tony Gentilcore's rear sway bars. 

 

Reading over old emails I saved from the riv mailing list, I think I need to ask the front end guy to set the caster at 2-3 degrees positive, the camber at 1/4 degrees positive, and stock toe in. 

 

Is there anything else I need to pass along?  What is the stock toe setting? 

 

Tom Telesco are you out there, I was reading some of your old stuff from 8-10 years ago to come up with the above info.

 

Thanks

 

Zimm

 

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That is ALL correct Zimm. Actually I like to get the Caster even more positive, but can't be done with just shims usually.

 

 

Tom T.

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               The toe should be toed in 1/8 in.  You usually can't get real high positive caster without

installing some sort of aftermarket control arm setup, but you should be able to get into positive territory

enough to improve handling. The reason cars had negative caster back then was that it made non power

steering cars a lot easier to turn the wheel at low speeds, and most cars back then had manual steering.

The downside to negative caster is that the car tends to wander more, causing a need for constant slight

corrections.

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)

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On getting more positive caster. I use poly bushings for the strut rods/brake reaction rod bushings. I modify them by removing a 1/4" of material from the rear bushing. This pulls the lower control arm forward which results in approx. an additional 2* plus of positive caster. I've had some give me a hard time about doing this as it puts undue bind in the lower control arm bushings. Two things, 1st. if you EVER stood outside while someone braked kinda hard, not locking up, with stock rubber bushings, going forward or backward you will see the the lower control arm move a considerable amount. So, as far as I'm concerned there is NOTHING to worry about as far as causing a binding situation and with the poly bushings there will be LITTLE to NO movement.

 

2nd.  Poly bushings have been on my '64 Riv. for more than 10 yrs. now with NO ill effects as far as I can tell.

 

By doing it this way you now have a neater under hood appearance as there are NOT a lot of shims in one location & little to no shims in another location. Nobody will know the diff. except for yourself in the way the car feels & handles SO much better. More like a driving a modern day vehicle.

 

Just my thoughts, again.

 

 

Tom T.

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