Ken_P

Cross Trailers

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Any experience with Cross Trailers in Elkhart, IN? After much shopping around, they seem to be the best combo of features, quality, and price. I am buying a 22' trailer with a 2' V, 10K GVW. Escape door, EZ track, and torsion axles. I know aluminum is better, but I don't want to blow my budget, and will have a covered storage location for much of the trailers life. I have a diesel 3/4 PU, so towing capacity is not a concern. Towing a 1937 Packard 120 1092 for now, who knows what in the future! Thanks!

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Ken,

Were it me, I would go for the 24' version.

Who knows what you will tow in the future, and a trailer is a big investment.

You would not want to "do it over" in the future.post-112969-0-17997700-1455037629_thumb.post-112969-0-68771500-1455037761_thumb.

I added my own escape door.

Mike in Colorado

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Mike,

Is that just painted OSB on the inside of your trailer?  It looks pretty nice in the photos.

 

Ken,

No experience with Cross Trailers but things to look for:

16 OC vs 24 OC (on center) for floor, sides and ceiling support

Decent wiring connectors  (especially underneath) - not the silly snap over ones

Load D or E rated tires

Brakes on both axles

Crawl underneath and look at the quality of the frame welds

Undercoating (or have it undercoated after you buy it)

Stainless vs zinc coated hardware and door latches

LED lighting - much less power consumption

Interior lighting

Bonded exterior aluminum side panels vs steel and vs screwed

Decent front dolly jack

Some type of warranty

 

 

Scott

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
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I agree with 24, when you sell it it will go much easier. I would never buy a trailer with 15 inch wheels. Get the 16's as they are much safer and wear better. Will give you some extra capacity and much bigger brakes.

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I also agree with 24 ft.  That is what I purchased after a lot of investigation.

 

Sounds like you are getting 5200 pound axles which is a great choice. Probably has brakes on both axles but ask just to be sure.

 

I also have lighting for both 110 and 12 volt on the ceiling.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

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I agree with what Ed and Larry said. Mine is an all aluminum 24 ft with a pair of 6,000 lb axles.

I also had it built with a foot of extra height, so hauling a Brass-Era car with the top up is no problem, and I don't have to lower the top while standing in the rain - just drive in.

 

Get the best you can afford - and let it double as a garage.

Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)

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additional thought - our trailer has an extra 4-1/2 ft enclosed with a taPERED AND WEDGED FRONT WHICH GIVES EXTRA STORAGE FOR (sorry) tools, parts, and extra tires, and aalso reduces wind resistance. 

 

Higher floor means that wheel boxes are only 5" high, so '54 Caddy doors open over the box and into the driver-side access door.

 

Many extra tie-down points and many extra lights in ceiling, sidewalls, and under axles - no more holding flashlight in teeth

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Scott,

My floor is 5/8" treated plywood, that I painted with latex deck paint, with sand mixed in, and stirred WELL. The side walls are 3/8" plywood, painted gloss white. I ripped a 2x4 and added the red guide rails. Winch is from HARBOR FRT (5k) for an ATV with a remote on a 12' cord.

Mine was made by Arizing Ind. In GA.  It has a full perimeter frame and 16" tires. My only regret is that the sides are 24 gage. Should have gone with the thicker side sheets.

 

As opposed to Marty's "raised" trailer, which by the way still needs a wax job, my wheel wells stand 16" tall inside, so I fabricated my own 76" square escape door just ahead of the wheel wells. Not a big deal.

 

This last fall, I installed a set of 2" taller equalizers and greasable shackle bolts which raised the tail end of the trailer about 3". Now she does not drag so much on gas station driveways.

 

Mike in Colorado

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)

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Mike, if we ever get to spend any time at home instead of supporting club events (in Philly now at AACA Annual Meeting and Board Meeting), you are welcome to visit, and to sanitize the trailer - and to enjoy some real Cajun hospitality...

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Marty,

Funny you should mention.

We are headed to Fla. early in March to visit my bride's sister in Claremont.

We will pick up the Jayco and head back to Colorado via I-10 to Houston around the 22nd-25th.

Could very well stop by and say hi, subject to your schedule.

I know several places they sell car wax.

Boy, now we are really off topic............sorry Lamar, you are on the "visit list" on our way down....

Mike in Colorado

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)

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Mike,

 

The AACA Winter Southeastern Meet will be in Naples, Florida - March 16 - 19, 2016.

 

Will be driving the '65 Corvair Monza convertible, so won't have the trailer in Florida-

 

We'll be there judging the Saturday Meet, 

and during the Friday Member Roundtable, probably visiting a Florida cousin for a few dfays afterward, but please stay in touch. 

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I also am a big fan of 24 foot trailers for cars especially for storage of stuff.  I have an ATC 24 aluminum 5200 axles.  Since you already have a 3/4 ton diesel tow rig you are good to go but be careful of too big of axles on steel trailers as you can wind up in commercial DOT territory with a high GCVW. As mentioned low level lighting is a must as well as a planned location for the side door so you can walk out of it!

Robert

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I transport every day.

I have owned (4) enclosed trailers.

(3) have been made by Arising Industries in Fitzgerald, GA.

All of them were bought from Tim Woods at Colony Cargo Trailers - also in Fitzgerald, GA.

 

What I have learned:

 

Install an electric winch - winch your vehicle on & off - no need for an escape door.

If possible - order straight - not drop - axles ....

This will increase trailer deck height & clearance so you do not bottom out.

Spring axles can be serviced - springs can be replaced.

Torsion axles are non repairable & must be relaced when they fail.

Get a rear door w/ minimum 78 inch clearance.

I opt for barn doors over ramp doors - wider rear opening - more versatility.

Extended tongue will allow for tighter turns without damaging trailer or tow vehicle.

 

My enclosed car hauler trailers have side barn doors as well.

 

My current custom one is my largest - 34 feet enclosed w/ 8 ft. rear door clearance.

Currently it is at the manufacturer for repairs after I was rear ended by a hit & run driver.

 

So - I am presently using a 24 ft. car hauler I had to buy stock off Tim's lot.

 

 

 

Jim 

 

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Edited by Trulyvintage (see edit history)

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Guys - thanks for all the input, even though it's been a while! Thought I would post some updates. I ended up with a 24' cross trailer. No V. I added two strips of EZ track on the entire floor, a spare tire (of course), 5200 lb torsion axles, brakes on both, and an escape door on the drivers side. Not as fancy as some of the nicer trailers, but it has LED lighting inside and out, and I've had great luck with it.

So far I've probably got close to 10K on the trailer, including several long trips with my car (37 Packard 120 touring sedan), workbench, motorcycle, and most of my tools. Using it like that while moving I've had it right up at the 10k GVWR with no issues. Truck pulls it really well, and it pulls smoother than my 5th wheel RV, even without an equalizing hitch! Couldn't be happier. My next trailer will be aluminum, just for the weight savings, and maybe a little taller, as my interest in cars veers towards older cars, but overall very happy with Cross. 

I did factory pickup (cheaper than freight) and was very impressed with the build facility and their customer service. I got a flat about two miles out of the factory, and since it was caused by a screw from their factory floor, they had no problems replacing the tire. Overall great experience so far.

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Ken, congrats on the trailer,

 

Always carry AT LEAST 2 Spare Tires, 

No need to waste a day hunting for a replacement at the first sign of a flat or a separation, especially in the middle of nowhere.

i carry either 3 or 4 spares, and at least one unmounted, but I run 235/85R-16 LRE on6K axles

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1 hour ago, Marty Roth said:

Always carry AT LEAST 2 Spare Tires, 

In support of Marty's recommendation, I have first hand knowledge (although it didn't happen to me--YET) of two instances in which a blowout on one tire took out the adjoining tire as well.  In one of those cases, the dually tow vehicle and the expensive aluminum trailer wound up on their sides in the median and were totaled; the $400K car in the trailer was hanging like a bat from its straps and had its left side fenders caved but repairable.

 

I use a non-contact thermometer to check each tread, sidewall, and hub temp at every pitstop.

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8 minutes ago, Grimy said:

In support of Marty's recommendation, I have first hand knowledge (although it didn't happen to me--YET) of two instances in which a blowout on one tire took out the adjoining tire as well.  In one of those cases, the dually tow vehicle and the expensive aluminum trailer wound up on their sides in the median and were totaled; the $400K car in the trailer was hanging like a bat from its straps and had its left side fenders caved but repairable.

 

I use a non-contact thermometer to check each tread, sidewall, and hub temp at every pitstop.

 

Thanks Grimy, and I always use a torque wrench to check lug nuts every morning when towing, and check tire pressure at the same time. 

One cannot be too careful - equipment, cargo, family, 

 

by by the way, Contrary to some opinions per trailer-specific tires, i only use Michelin LT Light Truck tires on my trailer 

Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
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