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55 buick century dash clock slow


Lucibindle
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you're clock works ?

congratulations !!!

There is an adjustment . 

underneath the knob that sets the clock, see another knob flush with the glass on the clock.

On the clock's glass are an 'S' and 'F'.

Between the 'S' and 'F' are tick marks. 

With a small flat blade screw driver, push the groove on the knob one tick toward the 'F')

Give the clock a week. And, if it's still running slow, turn the groove another tick toward the 'F'

 

post-153317-0-94251000-1453515252_thumb.

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The clock may just be slow because the lubricating oil is deficient, congealed or contaminated with dirt.  It may just need to be cleaned and oiled.  If you don't feel comfortable taking things apart, send it off.  Otherwise I can give my method for cleaning and lubricating.

Willie

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Our clock runs, but I have no idea if it's fast or slow.  We lubed it up (20?) years ago and got it going, and it runs like a champ, but it's always wrong.  About once a year we think we might try to tune it in and we will set it.  A couple months later, we will remember that we were trying to figure out if it was fast or slow, and it will be 6 hours out.

 

Never mind.

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Since I don't drive my car often enough, I put a toggle switch hidden beneath the dash so that I can turn the clock on and off.  I really only use it when I am on a club tour.  Note that when it is off it is still accurate twice a day.  

 

Oh, and I agree with Willie.  I have purchased several clocks off eBay (cheap) that the sellers said were not working.  But a little lubrication brought them back to life.

Edited by packick (see edit history)
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So on a less sarcastic vein then earlier this morning...  I took my non working clock from my Electra and started investigating.  

I had 12 volts to the clock so fuse is still good.  So much for the easiest fix.

 

Checked with a meter and had continuity through the clock so I knew solenoid was good.  If you have an open circuit your points are dirty or you solenoid is burned up.

 

Pulled the face off and took it apart.

 

Look at all the crap that fell out from the movement after 55 years.Took compressed air and blew out what

 

Looked at the points and they needed some cleaning. Took some sandpaper to it and cleaned them.

 

Manually wound the movement and watched the balance wheel. I moved but will not stay moving especially towards the end of the wind.

 

When it moved all the rest of the movement worked.  Second hand moved a the rate of 1 RPM.

 

I have no cleaner so will pick some up tomorrow and then clean and lube it.  Change the lightbulb and it should work and keep time.

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Edited by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history)
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As mentioned, the clock works from a set of points and the various springs and such.  As others have mentioned long ago, just cleaning the points, the works, and re-lubrication with appropriate light oil, usually make them work "as new".  On some of the newer ones, they can be self-regulating by letting them run for a while and then adjusting the time to the correct time . . . according to some reports.  On some earlier models, there was a small "fast/slow" screw adjustment on the clock's face.

 

There is supposed to be an "approved" initial installment procedure, from an old service manual I found long ago.  With the battery disconnected, touch the unhooked battery terminal to the cable end.  Just touch, not attach.  When the clock runs down, then touch it again.  Repeat a few more times until the clock does not "wind" when the terminal is touched.  I never knew of anybody doing that, but it didn't seem to affect the clock's function.  In many cases, that "luxury item" from prior times . . . if it worked and kept good time, so much the better.  Otherwise, it looked good.  Always good if it works "as designed", though, to me.  The "other" luxury item back then was a fancy wristwatch, which tended to diminish the real importance of the instrument panel clock.

 

The quartz versions are supposed to be much more accurate, silent,  and probably takes less juice to run.  Either way, your judgment call.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

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So on a less sarcastic vein then earlier this morning...  I took my non working clock from my Electra and started investigating.  

I had 12 volts to the clock so fuse is still good.  So much for the easiest fix.

 

Checked with a meter and had continuity through the clock so I knew solenoid was good.  If you have an open circuit your points are dirty or you solenoid is burned up.

 

Pulled the face off and took it apart.

 

Look at all the crap that fell out from the movement after 55 years.Took compressed air and blew out what

 

Looked at the points and they needed some cleaning. Took some sandpaper to it and cleaned them.

 

Manually wound the movement and watched the balance wheel. I moved but will not stay moving especially towards the end of the wind.

 

When it moved all the rest of the movement worked.  Second hand moved a the rate of 1 RPM.

 

I have no cleaner so will pick some up tomorrow and then clean and lube it.  Change the lightbulb and it should work and keep time.

With that much crud in there, spray the cosmetic areas with mineral spirits over a paper towel, repeat after a 15 minute soak.  Spray dry with computer duster spray, then spray with WD40 and spray dry with the computer duster, then oil it.  Repeat if not running and still shedding crud.  Let if run for a day on the bench and if happy reassemble and install.

Willie

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Hey, Bulldog! Do you think that clock will fit a '54 Chevy 210? Clocks are confusing! lol...

WOW !!! 

maybe with a little trimming.. 

and if that doesn't work 

find another and chop that one up. 

 

And he's cutting up the trim from a 1954 48. That's a one year only part , no interchange from other models or other years. 

sheesh 

 

edit: a note of explanation, another forum had a request for Buick side trim.  To be chopped up and put on a Chevy 

Edited by JamesBulldogMiller55Buick (see edit history)
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