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Choke lever question


GaryP65
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I cannot seem to start up with the choke pulled out even slightly. It will only start when it's all the way in.

Not sure if they are related but I pulled a plug or two and noticed some carbon. Granted, she's not on the road, just idling (for now!). They only have a few start ups on them.

Thoughts?....

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I totally agree with nearchoclatetown  if you dont follow this advice ,everytime you go to do something on the car you will probably be distracted by starting the 

motor and get nothing done on the car, also a motor needs to be at operating temperature before fuel adjustments/timing

either way enjoy your car 

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I definitely agree with him as well! it could drive one nuts

Now that I FINALLY got it to start consistently, I need to check out why I'm not getting any reading on the oil & amp gauges (separate posts).

Working my way thru the list.....

Very excited now!

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I forget what year you are working on but if there's no pressure on the gauge it's probably because there's no oil pressure. If it sat a long time it may needs primed. If it didn't it needs investigated before something worse happens. The shaft may have broken or fallen out of place, key may have sheared, line blocked, etc. etc. The last car I got running sat at LEAST 10 years if not 20. Mice built a nest so dense I couldn't see the crankshaft. Don't cut corners.

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It's a 25 Sedan. One of the first things I did was to drop the pan to investigate. All looked good so I got a new gasket set (pan & pump). Filled it with fresh 30wt.

I have to admit it wasn't fun trying to get the pump shaft in place but I like to think I got it in.

I blew out the line to the check valve so I guess I'm gonna regulate my compressor to under 30psi and try to get a reading on the dash gauge. If I get one, looks like I'm dropping the pan again!!

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On the passenger side of the engine, behind the water pump there are oil lines. One looks like a stand pipe with a hex cap on it. Take the cap off and fill it with oil. MAYBE the check ball inside is stuck too? Sometime you have to use a magnet to loosen it. Then start engine and see if you have oil pressure. The engine only produces about 4 lbs. of pressure, not 30. 

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I'd be very interested in seeing the condition of the end cover.

If the rotor has worn into the housing you WILL lose not only pressure but the ability for it to prime easily.

Use the THINNEST gasket you can between the cover and body. 

Only thick enough that the rotor does not bind.

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Guest DodgeKCL

Just a small heads up. If an engine is running really rich,the extra gasoline will wash the oil off the cylinder walls and rings and wear the engine. You want to find the problem before running the engine too much more.(The extra gas will also find it's way into the sump and dilute the oil and also make a brew of acid to eat away at babbitt.)  

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I used the gasket supplied by Myers. It was slightly thicker that the one that I removed but the cover plate did show a very small bit of wear so I feel that the new one will have better clearance.

Why do I always get off topic here? This was about my choke! You guys are insane!

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