ArticiferTom Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Happy Holidays all; Need noisy bearing changed on my '31Dodge/Graham pickup ,three speed attached to 4cyl. Plymouth engine and chassis . No manuals where print for this year . I read that transmission must be removed separate from clutch , and clutch then from engine . And installation in reverse is this so ? And to remove transmission, two cap screws are first changed to threaded stems, so trans slides straight back out of clutch . Is it possible to add additional stems longer and slide back far enough to change the bearing ,with out draining and dropping the trans ??? Or is the a removable section in the shaft ? Now that I 've been getting this truck working and some close trips ,finding additional problems . Last weekend took out twice only one trip was event free . Found my diaphragm on fuel pump is dry rotted and causing me to run out of fuel on long pulls . I ordered rebuild gaskets for it . And bearing is noisy even after greasing per manual . Edited December 9, 2015 by ArticiferTom (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Should be possible to use longer stems. When I worked in a GM shop in the 60's we had an elderly mechanic that changed truck differentials this way. Everyone else got a couple of people to help and someone always ended up with an injury. On my Pontiac I use two rods about 20" long, threaded on one end. I bend them down and start sliding the bell housing up the rods. On my car the bell housing and the clutch and brake pedals come out with the transmission as it is bolted from the inside of the housing. Just before the input shaft would enter the throw out bearing I lift the back of the transmission and push it straight in to the pilot bearing. It sure beats lifting and struggling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Tom, it SHOULD work. But I've never seen a throwout bearing behind the clutch. Once you slide the trans back to disengage the input shaft you should be able to r&r the throwout leaving the clutch attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Tom, it SHOULD work. But I've never seen a throwout bearing behind the clutch. Once you slide the trans back to disengage the input shaft you should be able to r&r the throwout leaving the clutch attached. You must mean, in FRONT of the clutch. Most throwout bearings are located BEHIND or on the rear side of the clutch. Yes....you should be able to remove the bearing after removing the transmission without removing the clutch. Edited December 12, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Well, in reading Tom's first post it reads as though the trans AND then clutch must be taken apart. Then reversed, unless I'm reading it wrong. Only way I've ever seen a throwout bearing is accessible after trans in removed, not the clutch. Unless he's removing it for inspection which would be a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttotired Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Perspective thing Throwout bearings are behind the clutch, as in towards the rear of the car, where the clutch and pressure plate is towards the front of the car, but, If you are staring at the back end of the engine, then, you would say its in front of the clutch As far as sliding it back without draining oil ect, kind of depends on how much room you have, but most floor pans wont allow a bell housing to go back far, but if you can unbolt the bell from the gearbox, you should get more room, but the real trick is stopping the tailshaft yoke falling out and all the oil draining out the output shaft A spare yoke taped to the extension housing is great (if you have one) The gearbox will have to slide back about a foot, but that depends on the gearbox input shaft length Side note, gear boxes are really heavy and really hurt when they fall on you, not so much if they fall on your helper but still painful (you would have to buy them many beers), so using long studs is good, but make sure you keep the box supported on more than just those studs Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 On my 1931s I have taken the throwout bearing out without removing the clutch or bellhousing. Just remove the driveshaft and slide the transmission back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 Yes , I did not think I would have to remove the clutch , just part of description I read . . The bell housing I hoped would stay also . I was hoping someone else with a similar truck UF- F series had done this . Also must figure out how to take joint apart . Any tricks ? I hoped with rods in place it would slide back far enough for stem to clear and bearing come off . I t look like in older service manual on Grahams front stem may split at trans . I hate to drain to fluid I just special ordered to put in a 2 months ago . Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 Thanks keiser 31, That is what I wanted to hear . Your responded while I was writing . Looks like lots of room . Is there any thing to disconnect in the bell housing other then spring ?? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 (edited) You will not have to drain the transmission to replace the throwout bearing and there should only be a short spring holding the bearing collar to the bellhousing (unless it has the manual grease filler tube connection). That spring may give you fits when you slide the transmission back in, so be aware of that.I slid my transmission off to the right side so as to access the bearing....sorry about the dark photo....I had to remove my clutch because it had one of the three release legs broken off. Edited December 13, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 Thanks again kieser 31 and all others . If weather here holds up I may try doing this year yet . My first priority is rebuild fuel pump and do more test rides . Parts are do in Monday . Found diaphragm checked with dry rot ,causing I believe low to no fuel pressure. I'll do photo tutorial of change when doing . If I remember friend with gloves goes under vehicle Ttotired . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 I made up an A-frame crane I sat inside my Studebaker. I used one of those ratchet wire pullers under the frame to hold up the gearbox while I slid it back. There is basically no spare room to remove an overdrive gearbox from a 1939 Stude. The alternative to the glove clad strong friend underneath is a trolley jack, perhaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Hello Spinneyhill , I donot know what '39 Stud drive train is like . Assume the OD box hangs on back of trans . meaning you would have to lower while backing out . I don't think that will be a problem on my truck . I just never got to it as fuel pump and carb problems with my running have not been fixed and Winter arrived today with 12" of snow . this will put me on hold working on truck except for some cosmetic thing I can remove and do in shop . I do have access to floor jacks if I need . O' well only about 8 more weeks of winter . Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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