Riviera63 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 HI, Now that the car is put away for the winter I have been thinking of projects to get me through the cold months ahead and to have things in place for next summer's projects. One thing I have wanted to address is the vacuum line from my brake booster to the manifold. Currently on my car I have a black rubber line that runs to a "T" that connects to the manifold. A line then runs from that "T" to a reducer that has a line that runs to another "T" and branches off from there. I know that the vacuum line from the booster should be a combination of a metal line from the manifold to a black rubber line that connects to the booster. I know the current vacuum line set up on my car is not correct but, I am not sure what the correct routing should be. I have looked in the Service Manual and have a general idea of how it should go. Does anyone have an actual picture of a correct vacuum arrangement or a good verbal description of that arrangement that they could share with me? It looks as if I would need the metal vacuum line, a brass fitting for the manifold and a check valve that would fit in the other end of the brass fitting for to branch off to other vacuum lines. Other than various black vacuum lines are there any other parts I would need to obtain or anything else I need to consider to get it back to correct? I have attached pictures showing my current set up. Any pictures/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Here are a couple of pics that show the metal vacuum line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks Don. That second picture cleared up a question I had about the valve cover clip that holds the line in place. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Bill, You'll notice that the picture of Don's car that shows the booster and master cylinder shows a plug on the Y coming from the booster and that his car has no vacuum canister on it (or at least one that you can see.) Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 His vacuum is hooked up to a fitting IN FRONT of the carb on the intake. Is that right? All the ones I have seen are at a fitting at the base of the carb in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 Yes, the fitting for his/mine is on the intake in front of the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Last night I confirmed this by finding some illustrations in my '63 chassis manual. Bill's lines are basically correct but they look a little hinky. The vacuum port on the front of the manifold should have a vacuum switch (in a Tee) in it rather than an elbow. Direct vacuum goes to a hard line from the switch to the booster and controlled vacuum (switched) goes from the other side of the switch to the a/c. It's been a long time since I've driven my '63 but I remember that when I applied WOT, the a/c would cut out. I don't know what the switch was supposed to do. It either cuts vacuum from the a/c at WOT or opens and allows vacuum from the canister to the a/c at WOT. Someone who has driven their car lately can you tell which is correct. Ed Edited November 30, 2015 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks Ed, The set up you described is what I could gather from the chassis manual. Hard line to a tee, then a check valve and line to the AC going from the opposite end. Someone along the line did away with this setup on my car for some reason. My current setup has the line that goes to the A/C ( with no check valve) tee off again. Is this line splitting correct? Thanks. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 The splitting of the line does away with the vacuum switch, which you should have. As I mentioned earlier, I'm not positive about the function of the switch. I do know that there's a check ball in it and it either stops vacuum from going to the a/c under WOTor it allows vacuum to be pulled from the vacuum canister during WOT. Without it, the a/c stops when you accelerate, or at least mine did. Perhaps the chassis manual explains this; I haven't read it. Either way, that vacuum switch should be part of the system. They're difficult to find and I don't know if anyone has found an alternative source. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 Ed, When you say "vacuum switch" and I say "check valve" are we talking about the same thing? See attached diagram. Thanks. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Same part/function; just a different nomenclature. The check valve fits into the Tee that I mentioned, but you need the entire setup. Ed Edited November 30, 2015 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Bill, You'll notice that the picture of Don's car that shows the booster and master cylinder shows a plug on the Y coming from the booster and that his car has no vacuum canister on it (or at least one that you can see.) EdThat is correct, I removed the vacuum tank on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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