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Waldrons Exhaust install thread


alini
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Wednesday my Waldrons Exhaust, with Imposter muffler arrived.  Took yesterday off due to the big food day...and I need hardware.  I dont shop for anything on Holidays like that (people should be off with their families).  I have my hardware list and will be off to the autoparts store to get the applicable nuts and bolts here in a bit.  I will try to grab pics as I go and will post up how the install goes.

 

Since he exhaust is supposed to be direct factory replacement (with an extra cut for shipping ease) I plan on following the service manual directions for clamp/hangar positioning.  So this shouldnt take long.

 

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The Imposter muffler is one of the three options they offer.  Waldrons has three different 'volumes', Stock, a Mild imposter and the Imposter (loudest)

 

I spent two hours today.  I laid everything out when it arrived and counted what I needed.  Here is a list.

 

4 x 1 7/8" standard U clamps (two for securing the tail pipe to the muffler and two to secure the tail pipe to the hangers)

4 x 2 1/8" standard U clamps (two to secure the resonator to the front pipe& front hanger and two to secure the front pipes together if you ordered it shortened for shipping)

 

4 x 3/8" by 2 inch bolts/washers/nuts   for securing the resonator to the exit pipes

6 x 5/16" by 2 inch bolts/washers/nuts for securing the over axle pipes to the muffler/mid hanger

 

I used their hanger kit because mine were trashed and in no condition to be used and I felt it better to get their replacements than spending time engineering something.  So I needed to get some nuts and bolts to mount them to the frame.

 

I have the car on 4 jack stands already, I used 6 more to hang this exhaust.  Using them or some suitable sub (blocks of woods, foot stools) helps hold pipes up in place as you go.  I put the entire exhaust in the car by myself and tomorrow I will do the final tightening and adjustments.   The service manual calls for specific angles of clamps and for specific clearances at certain spots along the frame.

 

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Here is a pic that captures where they reduce the cut the front pipes to shorten the max length of each pipe for shipping.  If you are doing a formal restoration you can not do this (and pay more for shipping).

 

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I positioned the clamps with the nuts to the rear, one to have it rotated up for ground clearance and two with the nuts to the rear any bags I could run over going down the road wont get caught up

 

 

Here is my only real concern, and this comes from them bending the pipes and not having the car.  The passenger pipe near the X in the frame is right at the .25 inch clearance called out in the book, but the drivers side has over 1.5 inch clearance.  I tried getting it to have a bigger gap but if I pushed it outboard the front area where the pipe crosses under the frame closes within the .9 inch clearance in the book.

 

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The pipes terminate at a good spot.  Just sticking out of the corners of the car.  You wont see them when the car is on the ground but positioned right to dump the air from under the car.

 

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When doing the final adjustments, I found it best to work from the muffler forward.   Since the mufflers front connectors are suspended by the middle hangers, I set the height of the tailpipes (1.12 inch) from the frame and locked the tailpipes down at their exit points in their hangers and the exit clamps at the mufflers.  I then moved forward, setting the 1 inch clearance of the over axle pipe near the spring perches, this locks the muffler completely.  I then did the resonator hanger and its rear mount.  This pretty much sets up the front where it needs to be.  There is enough play to roll it away from the frame and tighten down the manifold connections and then the 'Waldron split' connection.   Took me about an hour back in the garage, so 3 hours total install time.

 

p.s. I need to hurry up and get done....look at all that dust on the frame.  ;)

Edited by alini (see edit history)
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