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Need major help with a 29 Chrysler 75


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That's exactly what I was thinking, I'm keeping my eyes open for a sedan. I believe mine is a Fisher body though, but still impossible to find body parts.

Still going through parts, does anyone know what this seems to be?

Not certain what that is. Looks almost like one of those horizontal windshield wiper motors.

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It has what looks like a thumb adjuster screw, and the bottom has a pipe going through it, it looks almost like a burner for something, all the other parts in that box have me confused too. I will take more pictures when I get home.

My leads for the body are narrowed. Only one place left to contact, no answer with a phone call, going to send them a message and stop by their shop.

post-155200-0-49015500-1453556691_thumb.

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I think it is a burner. It may have had a branding iron bolted to the flange, like this on ePay.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Everhot-Telephone-Pole-Wood-Branding-Iron-Tool-D-E-T-Co-Gas-Torch-/401039499635?hash=item5d5fd12173:g:j58AAOSwbdpWXliY

 

In fact there are two of them on eBay at the moment.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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If the light bucket says, "MOPAR" on it, then yes, but from the 1940s or 1950s. The wiper motor next to it looks like 1929 Chrysler, maybe. The fuel pump may be later MoPar. The bracket....not sure. The last thing is an oil filter that may or may not have been added to the car. Some came with, some were added later.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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The fuel pump looks a lot like the Dodge 8 pump, esp. if it has a thin mounting flange, so could belong to the car. Later ones didn't have the removal base and the flange was thicker (which means you can keep the oil in the engine).

I believe most 1929 Chrysler 75s had a vacuum fuel canister. The 1931 DB DH6 and Chrysler CM6 have a fuel pump like the one in question.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Unfortunately, no I haven't. I had 3 leads to where it could of gone, and they were all closed by November of last year. Luckily I have all the parts I can tell for the 2nd cowl/windshield, and convertible top. So I should be able to modify a sedan body, when I can afford one. This sucks....

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I think you will discover that altering a sedan body is no easy task.  It will take an expert metal fabricator to do the job correctly.  Not that it can't be done, but if you are figuring on chopping off the top of a sedan and being ready to go, please think again.  You will also need to find an original body that you can photograph and take exacting measurements off.  I know what we went through just replacing some of the lower body sheet metal on my original sedan body.  The time and amount of work to transform a sedan is going to be substantial and very expensive - unless you are equipped to do the work yourself.   This doesn't take into account the wood replacement that will have to be done.  I'm still at a loss to believe any semi-knowledgeable shop would not have seen the rarity of your body and done something to preserve it.  If it is really gone, it's an irreplaceable loss.

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Please don't get me wrong, I may only be 27, but I believe I am a little more experienced than most people my age. I have the keys and access to all kinds of construction trucks and equipment, and our fabrication shop. We don't do body work but their is a guy here that use to work at a body shop that would really like to help.

My grandpa worked on his model a's and this Chrysler in the same shop. I'm planning on getting a rolling chassis together at home then bring it up to the shop where the engine is and I have plenty of floor space to lay out parts.

When I get to that point, I would really appreciate anyone that would like to come help with the car (seeing as ALL the bolts are mixed together in one box). Right now I'm looking for tie rod and steering rod ends, then I should be able to get the front axle together.

My apologies if I seem harsh, the way I see it I have got a good 30 years to get it back together, that's plenty of time to learn from you guys everything I can about these old cars to keep the knowledge alive. And thank you for all your help so far.

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  • 1 month later...

Let the project begin! Bought a sedan and it just arrived yesterday! Thank you Rex for letting me know about it and getting me in contact with the owner. 

 

Now the plan is to use the parts I have to get it running and driving again, get it back on the road. I know I'm going to have a bunch of questions, but at least now it helps I have something to look at and see how it all goes together.

IMG_20160323_191024864_HDR.jpg

  • Like 2
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Pulled the engine out and am starting to clean it up. I was told it had a cylinder repaired and some other work done shortly before it was put in storage for the last 25 years. It turns smoothly and doesn't bind, transmission shifts easily into all gears. So... What things need to be checked our gone through before starting it up. And what is the easiest way to install the engine and trans? 

I'm planning on repainting it before installation.

IMG_20160326_160317634.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

A 29 would have (Delco Remy) Lovejoy shocks I believe. Possibly D-R bought Lovejoy at the time? Enclosed photos are of Series 65 shocks including one with a grease nipple into the lid. The rear shocks are almost impossible to refil by gravity when in car, but grease nipples still works well.

CR 1508 11 støytd DelcoRemy Lovejoy.JPGCR 1411 09 greasenippel VF støytd.JPG

 

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Hmm, the 4 that came off the car are on the left, the 3 on the right in a row are the same size all the way through, and the one on the bottom right is a step cylinder, both sides are different. 

 

I'm not sure what ones are on the other sedan I got yet, I haven't pulled the wheels at this time, hoping to get the engines swapped first. 

 

So what is the step for? Other than cosmetic differences the only other difference I see are the ears for the mounting bolts. But my backing plates were drilled bigger, so would they work as spares?

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Stepped cylinders were used on the front. The larger step went on the leading shoe. Force = pressure x area, so a larger piston gives more force on the shoe. The leading shoe does most of the work even on a single-size cylinder. This way, they could use the same size rear step and rear wheel cylinders but get greater braking force on the front.

 

The leading shoe is pulled into the turning drum by the turning, so it is the one on the front going forwards and the rear going backwards. Two leading shoes can be arranged by having two single ended brake cylinders in the drum, one at the top and one at the bottom.

 

Do not use the wrong cylinder on the car, including those with different mounting hole spacing. It is crucial they do not move! If the correct cylinder bolts are sloppy in the backing plate, I would get the holes filled and redrilled correctly. Or use another backing plate.

 

The larger holes are for the cylinder bolts. The smaller holes beside them are for the banjo fitting of the hose to the cylinder. It has a foot that fits into one of those holes. The other hole allows the backing plate to be used on either left or right.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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On 12/7/2015 at 5:57 PM, carbking said:

Note the adapter between the Zenith carburetor and the intake.

 

The original carb used on the model 75 was a Penberthy "cross-flange" carb. Drawing a straight line between the two mounting bolts on a cross-flange carb will result in a line in the orientation of fender to fender (can be seen in the picture on the manifold). Drawing a straight line between the two mounting bolts on a straight-flange carb will result in a line in the orientation of bumper to bumper (can be seen on the Zenith carb in the picture). Thus the necessity of the "flange adapter" pictured.

 

My records show the model 75 used a 249 CID engine, similiar to the model 72 (export) also a 249.

 

The model 72 used a Stromberg OX-2 carburetor, which like the domestic model 75, was a cross-flange.

 

The original Penberthy is quite scarce (zinc alloy - pot metal, and cracked to pieces). Once you get the engine running, you might consider looking for a Stromberg OX-2 which could be calibrated specifically for the 249 CID engine, and the adapter could be eliminated. The Stromberg OX-2 is mostly brass.

 

Jon.

I found this Stromberg ox-2 at a local swap meet , needs work

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