FrankWest107 Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 The roof border on my 33 ford has pulled away from the metal body by approx 1/16 inch in a few areas.The roof is very good condition and would not like to replace at this time. I don't really plan to drive the car in sever weather, but would like to run a bead of waterproof "silicon or something to seal this gap.I am looking for a product that will produce a thin bead 1/16 inch because I don't want to apply excess material and make a mess of everything. Does anyone know a good corking compound that would work here? Thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 If you want a really good caulking type of product I would recommend OSI Quad.http://www.ositough.com/en/products/view-all-products/window-sealant-window-caulking-quad-max.htmlI have used this on my motor home with excellent results. You will need some patience, paper towels and mineral spirits to do the job right. I caulked then finished the bead up with a finger wetted with mineral spirits.Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I wouldn't use silicone, it absorbs water and causes rust. I would clean the area and mask it off with masking tape. Then run a bead of calking from a calking gun. Ordinary black calking from the hardware store. Leave a raised bead, do not smooth it down flat. It will crack when it dries unless it is beaded up a bit. Carefully remove the tape. If you take your time you can do a real neat job that will be practically invisible and last 10 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankWest107 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 I wouldn't use silicone, it absorbs water and causes rust. I would clean the area and mask it off with masking tape. Then run a bead of calking from a calking gun. Ordinary black calking from the hardware store. Leave a raised bead, do not smooth it down flat. It will crack when it dries unless it is beaded up a bit. Carefully remove the tape. If you take your time you can do a real neat job that will be practically invisible and last 10 years.Thanks Mr O'Tool you are THE MAN! Is there a way I can get a narrow bead 1/16-1/8 inch rather than the usual thick 1/4 inch bead That you usually get from a caulking gun. Show I get material in a small tube that you squeeze by hand rather than the large cylinder that you use in a caulking gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bamford Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 ..Is there a way I can get a narrow bead 1/16-1/8 inch rather than the usual thick 1/4 inch bead? Bead diameter is largely controlled by how much you cut off the applicator cone when starting a fresh tube. 1/8" or less is not difficult to achieve. If you get a standard tube there should be more than what you need for this job — suggest you practice filling a masked crack of the size you are dealing with (make up a crack with two boards, f'rinstance) until you have the hang of it and then do the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankWest107 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Bead diameter is largely controlled by how much you cut off the applicator cone when starting a fresh tube. 1/8" or less is not difficult to achieve. If you get a standard tube there should be more than what you need for this job — suggest you practice filling a masked crack of the size you are dealing with (make up a crack with two boards, f'rinstance) until you have the hang of it and then do the car.True, however, if the caulking compound is to thick it will not flow easily thru a very small hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) Thanks Mr O'Tool you are THE MAN! Is there a way I can get a narrow bead 1/16-1/8 inch rather than the usual thick 1/4 inch bead That you usually get from a caulking gun. Show I get material in a small tube that you squeeze by hand rather than the large cylinder that you use in a caulking gun?As Rusty said....tape of the 1/16" gap that you need. Try not to get too much on the tape, but stay inside the tape with a raised bead. Edited October 22, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) Only cut off a bit of the end or poke a hole with a nail or drill. Get a fresh tube and keep it in a warm place till you need it and it will flow ok. Not real fast but as fast as you need it to go. The masking tape will take care of the excess. If you are spreading it around past a 1/2" masking tape you are doing it wrong ha ha. Hold the tip tight against the joint and force the calking into the crack as much as possible. If you have done calking before you know to hold the calking gun at the right angle and move slowly and steadily to leave a neat bead. Take off the masking tape before it starts to dry or skin over. If you mess up don't panic. You can wipe it off clean with Varsol or paint thinner and try again. Edited October 22, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 A[so,pre heat the caulk,just a bit,nice clean joint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I agree with Rusty, don't use silicone, but I would not use regular acrylic latex caulk. It is not very UV stable (so it discolors over time), it is not very flexible and will crack. The OSI product I recommended stays permanently flexible, does not discolor (UV stable), adheres extremely well and dirt does not stick to it (like it does to silicone). I have about 10 years experience with it (on a vehicle) and it is still like the day I applied it. It can be found at your local Home Depot in a regular caulking tube. As others have noted, just cut the tip to give the bead size you want. If recall it flows fairly easily. If you want to keep the bead, just don't do the finger wipe. Cleans up with mineral spirits. Considering your vehicle investment, maybe try buying a couple of different products and see which you like. I'm just sharing my experience with this product on another vehicle application. Good luck.Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I would use butyl windshield sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Best not to use your finger on the bead. It contains oils. Mold often follows in the finger-smoothed bead - it did in my motorhome. Use an iceblock stick if you want to smooth anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Just take it to an auto glass shop and let them deal with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 My glass guy gave me a tube of something a couple of years ago that was the best adhesive I have ever used.It was quite thick, it was black and very tacky. I may have to find out what that was but except for the viscosity it sounds like what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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