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Marvel T-3 carb for '31-57


Oldtruckspapa
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This is my first pre-war car.  It runs ok but needs a carbuerator rebuild or a rebuilt carb.  Does anyone know of anywhere to find rebuild kit or parts?  Or anyone that has ability to rebuild these carbs?

 

Also, does anyone know how to obtain drawings for how the door latches work?

 

Thanks for your help folks.  THis forum is a great asset to those of us who are rookies trying to save these prewar beauties!!

 

Blessings,

 

Jerry

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Welcome Jerry

I got my Marvel T3 rebuild kit for my 26 Std 6 from The Carburetor Shop in Missouri. I'm very happy with what was supplied although note you will only get a new float needle and seat and not any of the other seats in the kit but it seems to have done the trick with ours.

Good luck

Cheers

Neil

26X-25 Std 6 Tourer

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Bobs automobilia . Looks like you will need part # ck 313  . priced at $125.00 He has lots of pre war buick stuff. Call him at (805) 434-2963. ASK for his latest catalog. he will send you one with your order. Kit contains gaskets. needle and seat float valve. air spring. and a cork float. plastic floats are now available Part # CF-265N priced at $18.50

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Nope, was not able to talk anyone in to rebuilding it.  Got the kit from Bob's and am in the process of rebuilding it myself.  Now, i'll REALLY need it rebuilt!....:-)

 

Will post results once it is back in the car for trial runs!  it would help if everyone would keep their fingers crossed for the next few days.....:-)

 

Blessings,

 

Jerry

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Jerry,

If your are not comfortable doing this job, send it to us and we will handle it. While it is a simple carb it presents complicated problems with modern gas. If you build it be certain that the air valve moves freely and seats perfectly against the venturi wall. Setting the float level on these by measurement doesn't work well. When the float valve is closed and the bowl is full the fuel should just barely be visible the top of the main metering nozzle. When we build these we adjust the float by observing the fuel level on the carb without the upper iron air valve housing bolted on, just the bowl and nozzles. We supply fuel at the correct pressure. Earlier carbs we use a small tank for gravity flow to simulate the vacuum tank, I think your carb should see 3-4 PSI. Be advised that even when everything is perfectly done on these carbs, they tend to leak slightly. The bronze or pot metal castings are porous enough that modern fuel tends to creep right up the walls and escape. Let us know if we can be of any help you can call at 530 863 seven five seven nine.

Regards, Roger Barrett, BCA #99

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