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1940 buick


bluenash

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On ‎3‎/‎2‎/‎2016 at 3:03 AM, Morgan Wright said:

Front parking lights work now, needed new bulbs, license plate light working now, entire fixture rusted to heck and bulb blown.

 

Turn signal lights already were working, never tried them with the key on. Turns out they worked all along. BUICK left turn EIGHT right turn. Beautiful.

 

Headlights came on once, high and low beam fine, but just once. Now not working again. Probably a rusty headlight switch so I bought a NOS switch on ebay. Interesting thing, during the one time the headlights came on, some dashboard lights came on.

 

Still can't get brake lights to work though. Bulbs are fine.

 

Oh, electrics.... :unsure:  Ha.  I bet it was pretty exciting to see it all light up though, even if it was just the once (so far)!

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1 hour ago, Kaftan said:

 

Oh, electrics.... :unsure:  Ha.  I bet it was pretty exciting to see it all light up though, even if it was just the once (so far)!

Yes it was, but not as exciting as when I:

 

1. Got a NOS headlight switch to make them work all the time

2. Discovered the tail lights didn't work because they were so rusty that they did not ground, so I took them apart and soaked them in vinegar to remove the rust and now they work

3. Discovered the stop lights didn't work because the stop switch was blown and the wires from the stop switch to the back were shorted with the tail light wires due to mice living in the headliner and eating all the insulation, so I strung new wires to the back

4. Discovered the dome light didn't work because of the same mice, need to rip out the headliner and wire that too

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  • 2 weeks later...

Congrats! Its funny how every state does things differently, in Washington, the inspection was for VIN only to get mine back on the road. Any reason why you need a safety inspection every so many years? Is it for all cars or just old cars?

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2 hours ago, Beemon said:

Congrats! Its funny how every state does things differently, in Washington, the inspection was for VIN only to get mine back on the road. Any reason why you need a safety inspection every so many years? Is it for all cars or just old cars?

 

Every year, for all cars. The inspection is to make sure the cars are safe to drive. Need good brakes, horn, wipers, frame not too rusty, and make sure all the lights work.

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11 minutes ago, Morgan Wright said:

 

Every year, for all cars. The inspection is to make sure the cars are safe to drive. Need good brakes, horn, wipers, frame not too rusty, and make sure all the lights work.

NC requires no inspection for vehicles over 32 years old! But just try to fix a lost title!

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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7 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

NC requires no inspection for vehicles over 32 years old! But just try to fix a lost title!

Same here, no emissions. My grandfather lost the title to my Buick, though, and man what a hassle that was! Ended up just being a VIN inspection with a 3 year hold on the title.

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They never inspected my VIN. For 75 years the VIN they used was the engine number of the 1940 engine, but that engine was replaced decades ago. That means the VIN on the registration was nowhere on my vehicle. The body number, engine number, VIN number, and frame number were all different. So I scraped the tar off the frame VIN down by the starter motor, took  a photo of it, and they changed the VIN of my vehicle to the frame number. There is no hold on it.

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1 hour ago, Morgan Wright said:

They never inspected my VIN. For 75 years the VIN they used was the engine number of the 1940 engine, but that engine was replaced decades ago. That means the VIN on the registration was nowhere on my vehicle. The body number, engine number, VIN number, and frame number were all different. So I scraped the tar off the frame VIN down by the starter motor, took  a photo of it, and they changed the VIN of my vehicle to the frame number. There is no hold on it.

Wow!  NC would have made you bond the vehicle for 3 years!

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  • 4 weeks later...

For the people who were following my progress on my 1940 Buick with a 263, where I was reporting compression results before the valve job and after the valve job (see Feb 5 on this thread), here is the update. I've been driving the car all around and have put probably 300 miles on it since Feb., and did another compression test today, and the pressures are off the charts. Looks like driving it around caused the rings to seat. The first compression tests were done with the engine cold and it hadn't started in 30 years. The final test was done with the engine still warm.

 

Before rebuilding head:....................After.....................After driving it for 3 months

 

 

1................90....................................112.............................134

2................44....................................112.............................125

3................65....................................102.............................117

4................55......................................97.............................121

5................86....................................110.............................129

6................86....................................107.............................120

7................81....................................107.............................123

8................67....................................105.............................121

 

total.........574....................................852..............................990

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  • 4 months later...

Update on my 1940:

 

In August I drove it 160 miles on the highway to move it up here to Saratoga when my father died July 17. Drove it 45 to 50 all the way up, just to go easy on the old steel and bearings, but when I got near the end of my trip I gave it gas to see how it could handle highway speeds. Was going 70 MPH for a while with no problem, but dropped it back. This car is geared for 1940 roads so I'd need a 4th gear to be comfortable at 70 MPH.

 

It runs better now than ever, and starts up every time. And it has tons of power up hills, takes all hills in 3rd gear, never have to drop it to 2nd.

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On my '41, 70 MPH is my self imposed speed limit, and that's only for short periods of time. It has lots more to go, but I don't want to spin it too fast, too long.

I have a set of 3.4's to go into it, if I ever get around to installing them!

My accept my condolences on the loss of your Dad.

Keith

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On 10/11/2016 at 8:36 AM, Buicknutty said:

On my '41, 70 MPH is my self imposed speed limit, and that's only for short periods of time. It has lots more to go, but I don't want to spin it too fast, too long.

I have a set of 3.4's to go into it, if I ever get around to installing them!

My accept my condolences on the loss of your Dad.

Keith

 

What are 3.4's, is that a different ratio drive axle? I wonder if I should look into that. My '40 sounds like the engine RPM is too high even at 50 MPH and I'd like a higher ratio rear end somehow. Or maybe just leave it alone and drive slow.

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OK I just answered my own question by finding this old post from 2006:

 

The Old Guy

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The 39 Special had either a 4.1 0r 4.4 ratio standard. there was a 3.9 available in the Century and as an option in the Special. If you can find a 3.9 you will be lucky, as many others have already pretty much used up the supply. GM made a change in 1940, and the rear ends from 1940 to 1955 would interchange. I have a 3.4 in my 40 ,and it makes the car able to cruise the interstates with no problem.

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Morgan, the entire gear set is removed from the front after pulling the axles, torque tube and propeller shaft. Is not difficult when said real fast. Axles are the same. Somewhere back in time there is a thread by Old tank , as well as mine, showing the process. I just am not smart enough to link them.   Anyone??

 

  Ben

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On 10/11/2016 at 8:36 AM, Buicknutty said:

On my '41, 70 MPH is my self imposed speed limit, and that's only for short periods of time. It has lots more to go, but I don't want to spin it too fast, too long.

I have a set of 3.4's to go into it, if I ever get around to installing them!

My accept my condolences on the loss of your Dad.

Keith

 

Would you like to sell them??

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Here is the latest update on the compression test:

 

Before rebuilding head:....................After.....................After driving it for 3 months..............Today

 

 

1................90....................................112.............................134............................................102

2................44....................................112.............................125............................................105

3................65....................................102.............................117.............................................86

4................55......................................97.............................121............................................107

5................86....................................110.............................129..............................................96

6................86....................................107.............................120..............................................95

7................81....................................107.............................123..............................................91

8................67....................................105.............................121..............................................99

 

total.........574....................................852..............................990............................................781

 

 

I'm wondering why the drop in compression, and think it could be

 

1. I live at 1400 feet elevation now and it was sea level before

2. The engine was warmed up before and I tested it cold this time

 

I'm hoping it's one or both of these and not wearing out rings.

Edited by Morgan Wright
added wrong on "total" (see edit history)
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LOL good idea.

 

Warmed it up and cylinder 3 went from 86 to 99, cylinder 5 went from 96 to 102. Didn't check the rest. Note to self......check compression when the engine is warm.

 

Altitude adjustment is 3.5% for every 1000 feet so the compression will be 5% lower at 1400 feet......... so 120 down there will be 114 up here.

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