'29 DA pull cables

[Bob Zetnick]

This may sound like a dumb question, but does anyone know of someone that sells the same kind of pull cables (choke, spark advance, etc.) for a '29 DA? I see cables on eBay...some look close, but don't know how much length..I didn't see them in old car catalogs like Restoration Supply. One of mine broke and I thought I'd replace all of them....anyway, didn't know if there was someone who sold cable by the foot. Thanks!

[nearchoclatetown]

They are easy to replace. Get a generic choke cable  that is longer then needed. You can open the clasp that holds the out sheath and replace the whole thing or just replace the inner wire. It is crimped into the knob with a small punch. Access through a small hole that's in the side of the knob. Take it apart you will see. I did a few of mine. 

[Bullfrog_eng]

What Nearcholatetown says is correct, that is how they were done originally. As usual, I did it differently (not by choice)!!!

 

Both inner and outer cables are available in whatever length you need in Australia from a company called Flexible Drive. They have premises in every state capital, but head office is in Melbourne. I am sure there would be an equivalent in USA.

Anyway, inner cable is about 1.4 mm (their part number 207145C) and outer about 4.9 mm (their part number 2003111C). I bought about 4or 5 metres of each from memory, for a total cost of about $20. For Aussies, this is the same as used for HQ Holden bonnet release cable, if you mention this to them they will know exactly what you are talking about.

 

This worked great. But there is always a BUT. When I tied to crimp the end with a punch, it would not peen, even after I bought a brand new punch. I think this is because the inner cable is much harder than original.

 

So what I did was solder it in. I used a large (1000 Watt) soldering iron and then tinned the inner cable and inserted it in the knob shaft. This can be difficult, as some knobs have a small hole in the end and there are at least two types of knob, with one type having a narrower longitudinal slot. It CAN be done without tinning first.

 

I then clamped both knob and inner cable to a piece of wood that I ground a slot in, so that knob and inner cable could be aligned. I put a piece of Aluminium (Aluminum) foil under the knob shaft, to stop the solder running out.

 

Then I applied the soldering iron to the cable and the solder to the cable through the hole in the knob shaft. You need to make sure that the solder is melting onto the cable. Then keep going to fill the hole with solder. It is not important that the solder fuses to the knob shaft, but obviously it is vital that it fuse to the cable.

 

Clean up any excess solder on the shaft and cable with a small file, blade, whatever, and that is it.

 

By the way, when replacing the outer cable, I “unscrewed” the old one out, but sometimes, especially after I had had the parts plated, it was difficult to get the new one in. I jammed a small screwdriver into the slot to spread the housing a bit and found the cable “screwed” in OK.

Hope this makes sense with the help of the photos.

John  

[Bob Zetnick]

Thanks guys for the help and photos. I found these and at 63" length vs. the typical 36" length I've been finding, these will work for my longest cable. I may have more questions when I get into this.....really appreciate the help!

[30dodge35]

I didn't have any cables in my DA and couldn't find any to purchase,

So used coral draw and made decals for cables from JEG supply.

If any interested in file send PM

Edited October 4, 2015 by 30dodge35 (see edit history)

[Bob Zetnick]

Thanks 30Dodge35! I already have the labels. My original cables are a wire wrapped cable, so I think I'll use the ones I posted...most I found were 36"l., but the ones I did find were 63"l. so will work for my longest cable.