vicpanza

Data plate restoration 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 1938

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I wanted to mention that I am restoring the serial number plate for my 1937 Dodge MC. This plate is exactly 2" x 4" and is a reverse image. I have had the artwork made and have attached. 

 

I found a screen printer who will make the screens and manage setup and printing. We think it should be gloss black ink, and if you want it matt, you can clear coat it with a matt lacquer. 

 

Before I go ahead with mine, I wanted to ask if anyone else is interested in having your plate restored with this method. To do so, you'll have to clean and polish your plate, make sure it's flat and send it to me. Once I have them, I'll have them screened and return. Please note that this artwork is specific for this plate, and will not work with other versions. 

 

I think the maximum cost will be about $35 that will cover your part of the artwork development, printing and return shipping. If we get enough plate (more than ten) if would be cheaper. 

 

In any event, I have attached a sample of the artwork and a pic of my plate for comparison. If anyone can confirm that this plate was used on other years or cars, please let me know as we can open up the opportunity.

 

If you are interested in this, please email me directly at vicpanza@gmail.com.

 

Thanks,

Vic

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Edited by vicpanza (see edit history)

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Thanks. You note that the "Serial NO" font is different then what was on my plate. Might it have been different for the KC series? Mine has a small "o" that is placed higher and has a line under it. Also, what he charge for this?

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These plate were original to my 29 DB "E" series truck. Both were transfer to a metal plate by a heat transfer process.

Not to sure what is meant by being etched on metal process. Originals were a paint transfer process.

I used scanned photes of poor quatity originals and many tedious hours using Photoshop.

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Doing a survey to see what is used to attach the vin plates. Half of our trucks (33 to 38)  use screws and the other is some type of shredded tapered screw type rivet.

33-35-36 shown

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Still checking what is meant by etched process to make these tags. Any ideas?

I drew the plan for this Maxwell plate and it was laser etched by a local neighbor. Photo #1= original. Photo #2= drawing. Photo #3= two finished plates.

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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Bought the one on Ebay, about 6 months ago, attached image.

 

Mine use flat head screws to attach.

What was the link to get your build card? Shot me your parts again. Between the fire detail and moving, my marbles are scrambled.

Thanks

Dave

PS 

I have the column support pulled.

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Vicpanza, so you are repainting your original plate? Not reproducing new ones? Cool idea. 

After seeing the nicer one's available on eBay, I am considering using one of these (the one from Poland looks to be the best value). But, as I have the artwork done, I may have a high resolution water decal made and put it on my original plate once it's cleaned and polished. If it looks OK, may clear coat it and use. If it doesn't hold up, I can always replace it. 

 

While the silk screening process would be a better option, unless I get a handful to do, it would be a bit pricy.

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Just something to think about. In most states it's illegal to mess with the serial number plate, I mean as far as replacing it. Repainting it I think you could make it look real good maybe lightly sanding and polishing before it's painted. I don't like replacing things that aren't broken. 

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After seeing the nicer one's available on eBay, I am considering using one of these (the one from Poland looks to be the best value). But, as I have the artwork done, I may have a high resolution water decal made and put it on my original plate once it's cleaned and polished. If it looks OK, may clear coat it and use. If it doesn't hold up, I can always replace it. 

 

While the silk screening process would be a better option, unless I get a handful to do, it would be a bit pricy.

Check a Trophy shop. They can transfer a photo image on a metal plate. Mine is much more durable than a decal. Check out my pervious post in this thread.

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Vic, I will look at my plate to see if it is flat. If it is I will send it to you. Thanks. John

Thanks. I am planning on having them silk screened. I have another, so cost will be split up a bit. Please make sure it's the same design as I have pictured above. 

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Vic, I will look at my plate to see if it is flat. If it is I will send it to you. Thanks. John

Any luck on getting this plate out. As soon as I receive it, will get them to the screener 

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Vic, My plate is bent and has an extra hole in it. It's not restorable. Thanks for the offer.  I will look into the one from Poland most likely.  John

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Found one on eBay that looks to be a good replacement: 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181700697048?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I have ordered and received this plate.  I like it except for the fact that "DODGE TRUCKS"  is centered 1/4" too far left. The photo on ebay shows it centered. I'm going to see if I can get a better one.    Will keep you posted.   John

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Found one on eBay that looks to be a good replacement: 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181700697048?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I have ordered and received this plate.  I like it except for the fact that "DODGE TRUCKS"  is centered 1/4" too far left. The photo on ebay shows it centered. I'm going to see if I can get a better one.    Will keep you posted.   John

 

OK. I was thinking or your original. If the extra hole is on in the number areas, maybe you could lay some silver solder into it, and we could have it screened. I have not dropped them off yet, and probably will not get to it for a few weeks.

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The original is not flat in addition to having an extra hole. I have gone through ebay for a refund or replacement with a plate done correctly. If a replacement or refund won't work I will go ahead and use it.   John

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