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JohnMackay

'39 Zephyr 4 door Sedan sills...

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Hi

 

I need to replace the inner sill (below running boards) on both sides on my '39 4 door Zephyr. Does anyone have any idea where I might find a pair? Very long shot I know.

 

Sorry but couldn't get photo to upload.

 

Many thanks 

 

John UK

 

 

 

 

 

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John, you need to contact "Doorsills" at 81 Graham Avenue, North Haledon, New Jersey 07508, Phone was 973 423 1196. Owner is Raymond Keuhn. Delivery is very slow 6 months or more. One man operation. I don't have a email address handy. I called them direct. This shop produces about every door sill hade for almost any prewar car made. That is why delivery is not quick. Look at his catalog and you will see what I mean. Good luck,

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Are you referring to the piece that's under the running board that's bolted to the body and at the rear of the front fender .? The outer edge of the running board is also attached to it via studs with push clips.

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John...UPDATE. Google comes up with Raymond P Keuhn Door Sills. New address is 302 Legion Place in N. Haledon, New Jersey 07508 1420. Phone is now 973 904 0270. Good luck. John

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John...UPDATE. Google comes up with Raymond P Keuhn Door Sills. New address is 302 Legion Place in N. Haledon, New Jersey 07508 1420. Phone is now 973 904 0270. Good luck. John

Spoke with Don Keuhn, nice chap. He only works in aluminium so can't help. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

 

John UK

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Judging from the pictures those aren't that bad. I've repaired a whole lot worse. They unbolt so it makes the repair job much easier.

It's looking as that may be the only solution. Need to grind the bolts off as they are rusted solid.

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Look carefully before you start to grind. The bolts may be screwed into cage nuts. If you grind off the heads, you will have to replace the cage nuts. I would try soaking the bolts in a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid for a few weeks and then try loosening the bolts. Give the bolts a hit with a big hammer every couple of days to help the solution work. When trying to loosen them, tighten a little and then try to loosen. Patience is the key to safely disassembling a car.

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Having removed these items before, I found the best way to avoid twisting off the bolts was to use a Dremel with a stainless steel wire wheel to clean off all the rust on the exposed part of the bolt threads (at the end of the bolt).  Then soak them.  Only lost one bolt in removing the nuts.

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Thanks for the feedback. Using a cutting disc. Bolts are coach bolts (at least that's what they're called in the UK), dome top, squared above threads to locate and hold. Unfortunately whole bolt/nut rotating. Easy to source over here  hopefully.

 

John UK

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Look carefully before you start to grind. The bolts may be screwed into cage nuts. If you grind off the heads, you will have to replace the cage nuts. I would try soaking the bolts in a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid for a few weeks and then try loosening the bolts. Give the bolts a hit with a big hammer every couple of days to help the solution work. When trying to loosen them, tighten a little and then try to loosen. Patience is the key to safely disassembling a car.

Is this mixture more effective than WD40?

 

Thanks

 

John UK

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That mixture will work about 10 times faster than WD40 and about twice as fast as PBlaster or other penetrating oils.

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