Guest cunninmp Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Hi everyone,First off I'm new to this forum. My wife and I have a 1937 Dodge Business Coupe we inherited from her Dad.On the drivers side, the window is intact in the down position. The problem is the knob just turns freely.How do you remove the knobs and the inside door panel to get at the problem?I'm not sure if there are splines that are stripped, or if the knobs are pinned.Thanks in advance,Mike & Patti C.Groveland, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Hi Mike,I believe yours should be similar to mine.Push on the escutcheon that the handle sits against as these have a spring in them. This will then reveal the base of the handle where you should see a pin that goes through the handle that locks it onto the pin that goes into the winding mechanism. Using a tiny punch tap the pin out and the handle, escutcheon and escutcheon spring should come off. Repeat this for the dorm lock handle, remove the door cover panel and remove screws holding the winding mechanism in place and you should be able to wiggle the winding mechanism away from the window channel. Be careful as the window may drop down on your hands.Let me know how you go.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cunninmp Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Hello Ian,Well sure enough, I went out and looked and they are pinned. Appears to be a 3/32" solidpin. I have drill rod in 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8". So I should be able to fabricate a fit.I guess back in 37 roll pins weren't being used yet.You mention removing the winding mechanism, are you thinking that is where the problemlies?Sounds like an adventure in the making.The car was bought in 1964 and remained stock until 2002. Then the guys at Harrahs got a hold ofit and was all restored inside and out.It's running a 350 Chevy and trans, with Ford front and rear ends. Disc brakes up front.Patti's Dad passed away suddenly a year ago, so we're learning about it as we go.Thanks for your quick reply. Over the next few weeks will let you know what progress I've made.Mike C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 The tool looks like the one pictured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 That tool would be handy but these usually come right apart.If the pin is stuck it may take an extra pair of hands to hold the escutcheon back so the other pair could drive the pin out. However they will usually simply push out with a drift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Removed probably a hundred handles. No problem yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 A guy on eBay sells them if that helps. He makes new ones.Not sure of where the problem lies but probably either a broken shaft between the winder handle and mechanism or a broken gear in the mechanism itself.Keep us posted.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 See if you can get a master maintenance manual. This should have a breakdown of the winding mechanism.......I'd be lost without mine and you can buy repro ones again on eBay etcIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cunninmp Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Ian and all,Well here's a quick update on the progress on the drivers side window problem.As far as actual progress, there really isn't any, but I've scored a miraculous find.In going through the trunk I came across a Drivers Side Window Regulator that appearsto be complete from the pictures I've seen. So now that I know how to remove the knobsand side panel, I had hoped my problems were over. But as fate would have it, thatis not the case so far. The Regulator is slightly rusted so the mechanism doesn't turnas of yet. Yesterday started applying Kano Kroil to the affected areas. The worst area of courseis the shaft and spur gear that makes the whole thing work.I'm still going to see if the old regulator can be fixed.As soon as I figure out how to post pictures on here, I'll post a few.By the way Dave, Mike Shaver stopped by a few days ago. So where are you moving to?Mike C.Groveland, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 8 miles east from our old driveway to the new one.20159 Highway 108Sonora CA 95370 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 8 miles east from our old driveway to the new one.20159 Highway 108Sonora CA 95370Looks like a great place from Google Earth.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 At the bottom right of the "Reply to this topic" is a grey box with "more reply options".Click on that and at the bottom of the reply panel is another grey box that has "Choose Files" under the Attach Files heading.Once you click on this you will be prompted to find your image you want to upload. Repeat that for each image then hit "Add Reply"Your text and pictures will be posted. CheersIan p.s. looking forward to seeing the pics ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cunninmp Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Well I hope this works. Here is a picture of the front of the cartaken at our 49er Days Parade here in Groveland.Because our town is located on the highway going toYosemite N.P., we can only use one lane for our parade.If this picture attaches, I'll post a few more.The color is a mettalic champagne.Mike C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cunninmp Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Here is a side view of the car. In my opening post, I had stated the carwas powered by a 350 Chevy.When I opened the hood sides, I knew it wasn't a Chevy. Winds up it'spowered by a 318 Dodge with a Dodge automatic tranny out of a 1965station wagon. Rear end is a Ford 9" and the front end is out of a FordMustang II.It has power steering, vacuum assisted brakes, and air conditioning. To keepthe engine cool, a flex fan plus a 12" electric fan up front. it's a very tight fit.Gauges are by Autometer.Mike C.Groveland, CAPS: Thanks Ian for letting me know how to post pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cunninmp Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Here is a side view of the car. In my opening post, I had stated the carwas powered by a 350 Chevy.When I opened the hood sides, I knew it wasn't a Chevy. Winds up it'spowered by a 318 Dodge with a Dodge automatic tranny out of a 1965station wagon. Rear end is a Ford 9" and the front end is out of a FordMustang II.It has power steering, vacuum assisted brakes, and air conditioning. To keepthe engine cool, a flex fan plus a 12" electric fan up front. it's a very tight fit.Gauges are by Autometer.Mike C.Groveland, CAPS: Thanks Ian for letting me know how to post pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Just disassembled and restored the regulators for my '37 MC pickup truck. Believe they are different then what the coupe uses, but if if's of any help, here are a few pictures of the parts. The cast gears on my regulators were stripped and I was able to get some made in naval brass (hard). Dave at Country Traveler has my extra stock. Happy to walk you through this if your issues rests with the gears. The gear mechanism is contained in a round housing that is easily removed by grinding off three areas where is was swedged on after being pressed through the plate. Once this was reassembled, we just tack welded the cup back into place. I also took my mechanisms and had them yellow zinc plated, because I am a bit out of my mind doing an extreme restoration:). A good coat of paint after blasting would do. Good luckVic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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