ArticiferTom

WTK speedometer protrusion/ Pic added gauge/ Finished !

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Have barrel type meter on my '31 dodge pickup .Noticed cable bend and spread at trans. side so removed cable. While trying to push cable back together it slide back into connector looks great . But was it suppose to?

 How much end  should stick out past trans. end , meter end has limiter attached on cable ?

 

  Also what lube should I put on cable before sheathing it ?

 

  I also note the meter moves when hand turning cable but never returns to zero  , is there a spring inside ?

 

This Forum's been great help for me getting this truck I recently acquired  back on the road . I finally finished brakes ,total resleeve and reline and rehose . When checking trans fluid level found  water got in when roof leaked I guess . Had to pull top and flushed out with Kero in garden sprayer . Need to track down some 600wt steam oil . and change  rear also .

 

                                                Thanks again one and all !  

Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

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Well dropped the dash down to remove gauge .There was spring inside clock type ,but problem is the dial arm itself is broke off at spring spindle . May try to soldier it back together , doubt can find just that part . Every thing was dirty and grit ,old lube took pic after cleaning . Thoughts WELCOME on making repair .

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post-153818-0-59710800-1440882584_thumb.

Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

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DC 1930 speedo is similar or same. The problem I am having is that the diecast body is nipping up on the shaft through it -> broken cable. Can you turn the donut shaped piece easily?

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Sorry do not know exactly what you mean by nipping . Where the cable goes up into the housing you can stick a small screwdriver blade and turns freely the shaft right up to the magnetic dome . It also turn at a slow ratio the worm gear that drives the odometer .

     I see two pin with plastic washers under them . I think they hold the respective shafts in . Have you tried cleaning and lubing before taking that much apart (WD-40 ) . Remember to try avoid reduction gear inset . Call me if you need me to check something else out . When you look up the cable hole  I see a split washer (ring) , do not know what this does , may just be stop for cable .

    Replacement generic cable is available with crimp on ends . Ebay.

 

 

         Note found that two pins in housing were actually oil caps and fibre with felt under . After oiling shaft turns smoother yet.

Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

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Tightening. The diecast is swelling and tightening on the shaft.

 

I would like to disassemble and ream, but how to do that? I don't know how that cable end goes together.

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If you remove it and oil it while spinning with a vari-sped drill . Do not use cable stick square something ie nail filed square . Is there lot of corrosion in the housing or is it just dry . I'll take pic of cable end to show after LLWS game.

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remove the oil felt on the shaft to the dome add kerosene and turn the shaft with a drill on low speed ,the shaft must be able to turn before you use this 

process.   after the shaft spins freely lightly oil and replace the felt works for me ,this process can take several  hours

very similar to the article above

good luck

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Thank you. I have tried that a while ago, but not with kerosene. I tried Brasso. Took a long time to make even a slight difference. Maybe I'll just set it up on the drill press and let it run slowly, else it will get hot.

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post-153818-0-60870100-1440978278_thumb.post-153818-0-18031200-1440978298_thumb.Attached some close ups . I think wd or kero may be just what it needs . I'm not sure know to get it out ,washer ring on bottom may be something . You'll have to careful because of gear reduction plug .

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 Hello Spinneyhill how did you make out with that speedometer shaft ? 

    I finial got my unit done . First ordered some low temp alum. solder in paste . Did not work for butt splice . Then found similar (damaged)  Northeast unit on ebay ,and lucked out part I need was perfect except for number font . That I can vinyl over in future . While I had dash down I removed and cleaned other gages ,cleaned, painted bezels and re-nickeled all three back . Also fixed cork gasket on dash lights, cleaned all electrical connections .

  Attached is pic of my finished parts  and also left-over parts of donor unit .

   If there's anything you can use let me know ie glass ,screws ,shafts , bucket .

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Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

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Hello Tom, I have not been playing with the speedos. I am overhauling the generator at the moment. Turning the engine over by hand to free a stuck valve the generator squeaked, so it is being worked over.

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Our you doing the generator yourself or sending out ?

   I have some good info on cleaning and testing . Lube is oil wicks and inner pulley side bearing ,make sure drains are clear . I found cloth insulation bad on my unit . cleaned with elect-clean and rapped in glass tape then varnished .I was not going to desolder to heat shrink . Make sure to under cut communators if needed ,black streaking . Do use hard abrasive on the bars ,causes extra bush wear . I used large eraser to clean carbon of and fine polish .

 

                                                     tom

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The hard part will be to get the pole shoe screws undone - they are in poor shape. I found a picture in a 1940 book of the tool. Lots of leverage. It might be cheaper to take it somewhere to get them undone.

 

I have polished and undercut the commutator. It was in pretty good shape. Continuing on; need wire for the cut-out connection next. The tape wrapping on the field coils is in good shape but oily, so I suppose I should rewrap them.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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  Go to  any appliance repair shop or junk yard ,ask for 12 ga. Hi temp wire. It's used in ovens and has the braided jacket like old wire and tinned inner wire may be even 14 ga. . Most electric whse's will have but min. roll is expensive . I used on mine and to replace some of new wire that was add to mine over the years. In future I'll loom some harness together . If you cannot find I'll send you some .  

  If your talking brush screws make sure you counter hold , so as to not twist . Sometime a clean solder gun to heat screw will help .

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Here is some pics how inside shaft push's up and out of brass collar . This was my donor unit that was very fractured so I used a hammer not a press . shaft has splined serrations that press into brass .

 

 

post-153818-0-57390500-1443057584_thumb.post-153818-0-65759500-1443057589_thumb.

Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

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