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Torque tube seal replacement 1957?


lancemb
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I am about to pull the engine out of my 57 convertible and thought it might be a good time to replace the seal at the torque tube where these always leak. I think most do this by moving the rear axle back but in this situation I am thinking just leave the trans in the car, separate it on a transmission stand and replace the seal before dropping the engine back in. Thoughts? Does this seem easiest?

Edited by lancemb (see edit history)
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Since you will have the engine already out, moving the trans forward is no biggie.  Otherwise, you will definitely need to move the rear end back or remove it for detail :D

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Don't forget to install a new seal in the front of the torque tube.

Are you referring to a different seal? Are there more than one? I know these things always leak and am unsure of exactly what I will need to replace. In the past I have either dealt with the leaks or been lucky so I don't have any prior experience. Big Blue never leaked a drop until about 2 years ago and I can tell already this one is leaking so I figure now is the time. Is there a kit you can recommend?

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...move the rear end back or remove it for detail :D

Tempting! I actually did power wash and paint the underside already while I had exhaust off as good as I could since this car was never undercoated so it looks decent, but surely not as good as if I yanked it out. I think I'll wait on that though! I'm just excited about having a shiny engine as there is currently hardly any paint left on it. I will also get to clean the firewall really well and have a much easier time replacing the brake lines in front!

Edited by lancemb (see edit history)
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Are you referring to a different seal? Are there more than one? I know these things always leak and am unsure of exactly what I will need to replace. In the past I have either dealt with the leaks or been lucky so I don't have any prior experience. Big Blue never leaked a drop until about 2 years ago and I can tell already this one is leaking so I figure now is the time. Is there a kit you can recommend?

Don't buy from either of the NJ suppliers. Bob's Automobilia sells revulcanized torque ball retainers as opposed to a new one (which is what you want). I think they sell a "kit". The retainer is what usually leaks externally. There will be gaskets and shims as well. You will need (if not in the kit) a torque tube gasket (between tube and ball) and a seal which goes inside the front of the tube surrounding the snout. This keeps trans fluid from running down the inside of the tube.

You can also send your old retainer to Steele to have it revulcanized.

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Don't buy from either of the NJ suppliers. Bob's Automobilia sells revulcanized torque ball retainers as opposed to a new one (which is what you want). I think they sell a "kit". The retainer is what usually leaks externally. There will be gaskets and shims as well. You will need (if not in the kit) a torque tube gasket (between tube and ball) and a seal which goes inside the front of the tube surrounding the snout. This keeps trans fluid from running down the inside of the tube.

You can also send your old retainer to Steele to have it revulcanized.

Ok thank you! Does the new one not work well? I will be on a time crunch and don't know that I can wait to send my retainer back and forth.

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Bob usually has them in stock and will send you one first. If not, PM me and I will send you a core. They will actually take a CARS version and have them revulcanized. They are shaped correctly, but the rubber gives out after a few years on the new ones.

Kanter is the same.

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I bought a re-vulcanized torque ball seal kit on eBay for $80.00 including shipping from a store that sells all kinds of trans stuff, because mine had a good leak there as well. That seal has worked perfect so far, not a drop leaked out. So, if you're still looking, you can check that out! The seal itself is easy to replace, it's just difficult if you have to yank the rear end out.

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I bought a re-vulcanized torque ball seal kit on eBay for $80.00 including shipping from a store that sells all kinds of trans stuff, because mine had a good leak there as well. That seal has worked perfect so far, not a drop leaked out. So, if you're still looking, you can check that out! The seal itself is easy to replace, it's just difficult if you have to yank the rear end out.

Two problems with those ebay items:  1) they are from New Jersey  2) some of the pictures show a silver zinc plated appearance...those are the ones that are no good; the rubber does not stick to the metal and the rubber is not compatible with oil.  Thankfully I was not far from home when mine gave out (gushed out)...a few weeks later and I would have been  2,000 miles from home.

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Two problems with those ebay items:  1) they are from New Jersey  2) some of the pictures show a silver zinc plated appearance...those are the ones that are no good; the rubber does not stick to the metal and the rubber is not compatible with oil.  Thankfully I was not far from home when mine gave out (gushed out)...a few weeks later and I would have been  2,000 miles from home.

 

And it was this I heard from Willie I reused mine.  It was not leaking before remove and I was not going to take a chance.  Reinstalled the tried and true torque ball seal.  No issues.

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It's not hard to get out and wouldn't you really rather put it back in looking like this?

012.JPG

Bernie

Yes indeed I would! However I already have the engine yanked, and plus I have new transmission mounts to install already on the shelf, so am gonnna take the trans out regardless. Plus after seeing how crusty it is I really want to clean it up! It is much worse than the rear axle at this point.

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Wow! That is a lot of dis-assembly.  It might be better to get the engine and tranny back in and operating with just the new seal. Then pull the axle for the cosmetic stuff next year.

It is always best to complete a component or two at a time and always keep the car as close to fully operational as possible.

 

Hundred dollar bills are the most common assembly lubricant. You need one for each task. "Component restoration" keeps things manageable and never takes so long you forget about the fun of driving the car.

Bernie

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Wow! That is a lot of dis-assembly.  It might be better to get the engine and tranny back in and operating with just the new seal. Then pull the axle for the cosmetic stuff next year.

It is always best to complete a component or two at a time and always keep the car as close to fully operational as possible.

 

Hundred dollar bills are the most common assembly lubricant. You need one for each task. "Component restoration" keeps things manageable and never takes so long you forget about the fun of driving the car.

Bernie

Yeah, I agree there!! It cost me about $600 to get all the needed parts for my Dynaflow. Every single piece was "$90"

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